MAKING MEMORIES: DID HEROES BATTLE IN TROY?
We’re cruising through the world of the Ancient Aegeans. Together we’ve strolled through the Acropolis with Ancient Athenians, marveled at Mycenean artifacts on Crete, followed the footsteps of Crusaders on Rhodes, celebrated the flowering of Roman Architecture in Ephesus and our boat is about to dock in the port city of Canakkale so we can go to Ancient Troy. Even though I did all these things and have all these photos to prove it, its still somewhat unbelievable. Come lets add another legend to our belt!
Trekking in Luxury
My hat’s off to all of those who did the dirty work to make this trip possible. I can’t even imagine all the blood, sweat and toil that went into the development, the rediscovery and maintenance it takes to keep all these wonderful places available to casual tourist like me. For century upon century, Troy was merely a legend, a fun story passed down through the ages. Then they found it with perseverance and hard work.
My day in Troy began at a breakfast table in The Restaurant aboard Viking Vela. They served me hot cocoa, fruit, sausage and a well done fried egg. From there, Bill and I relaxed in the spa, letting the water, steam and heat melt away the trials of traveling. It is lots of fun, but it does wear you out.
At 12:30 PM we reported to our tour bus and initially I thought we’d done all right in the guide department. Handsome Arab, beautiful English and he actually spoke with inflections in his voice, something the Ephesus guide hadn’t used, which added to the frustration of trying to listen to her. We were almost to the ruins of Troy and he had us on the edge of our seats as he detailed the battle among heroes and suddenly he’d drifted off to some agricultural report on the land that has filled in what was once the port of Troy – the location of these legends.
This was his distinctive guide dialog. Reel them in with legends and them bore them to death with data. Though I never turned off my audio pack, my brain did tend to tune him out from time to time. It’s a good thing I am familiar with both the legends of Troy, the rediscovery and excavations. He never did pick back up where he left off.
The Archeological Site of Troy
Unlike the Parthenon which stands proudly above Athens, marking the glory of Ancient Greece, Troy is more of jigsaw puzzle in the process of being put together. There’s not just one Troy. There’s Troy upon Troy upon Troy and the Troy of Helen and Paris is somehow woven between the layers. Unfortunately, what would probably be the richest area for artifacts of that era was destroyed when Heinrich Schliemann and Frank Calvert forced their way into the site, with little to no use of the careful methods of preservation archeologist use today. So about halfway through the site, when all we’d seen so far was partial walls and bits of sculpted columns, our guide pointed to a trench and said, “If there are artifacts to prove Homer’s story was true, they are lost in that trench and if we try to excavate, we’ll destroy them.” Great Heinrich and Frank. What were you thinking!
This is not a visually compelling site like the Acropolis or Ephesus. It’s a graveyard of carved stones. I’m glad I went, but I think Bill was somewhat bored. At the entrance was a replica of what someone thought the Trojan Horse might have looked like, but it was totally created out of imagination, because nothing tells us anything except it was made from wood.
We came, we wandered and we got back on the bus. There was one little group of cats at the entrance but that was about it. We had stopped for a potty break before starting our tour and the facilities were those holes you have to stand or squat over. So, when we returned to the bus, I had no interest in visiting again. I knew we’d stop in Cannakkale to see the prop made for the Brad Pitt movie, but I thought that would be very brief.
Free Time in Canakkale
So, if you’re a movie buff or Brad Pitt fan, you’re familiar with the movie, Troy. The Trojan Horse prop from it was given by the movie company to the city of Canakkale. I’m guessing that was probably the easiest and cheapest way for them to dispose of it, but the city has made the most of the donation. It sits on a square with a fountain in the city center, right by the water. Tour buses like ours drop off their load of tourists there and go a few blocks away to park.
I panicked when our guide told us we’d be there for 45 minutes and then walk to the bus which would take us to the port. I began to regret not stopping to squat above the primitive toilet at the archeological site. Bill jumped out and started taking photos. I chose to sit on the edge of the fountain and pray not to embarrass myself.
I can’t tell you how happy I was when the guide reappeared and we started toward the bus, but I had a very close call along the way. You know how cites put barricades up to keep cars from driving on sidewalks. Well, Canakkale has done that, but the short stele they use are only a little taller than my ankle and I didn’t see it. It caught my boot mid-stride and I almost tumbled, but as I regained my balance I also needed to regain control of my bladder. I was standing in the middle of the street and everyone was urging me on, but I just stood there until I was back in charge of all my parts.
Back on Board
I almost ran across the parking lot and onto the boat, trying hard not to be rude to personnel who needed me to scan my boarding card. Every other day I graciously received the warm towel being offered with tongs by a polite and smiling crew member. This day I nearly ran him over in my haste to get to the restroom!
There was one food venue we hadn’t made it to, yet, and this would be our last opportunity. Each day from 4-5, Viking serves tea in the Wintergarden. We were a few minutes late, but the ever gracious staff made room for us and served us up a mid-afternoon treat – only since most of it was pastries there were slim pickings for the gluten free among us, like me. Still, the beverage was nice and while I couldn’t eat any, Bill assured me the treats were quite nice.
We also made it to the history lecture – same boring guy, but he was talking about his favorite things, catapults and he was a lot more entertaining. After dinner in The Restaurant, there was a Beatles Songbook program, much like the Abba Songbook earlier in the cruise, and it was just ass much fun.
The next day we were going to Istanbul and that was my very favorite part of the cruise. I loved Athens, but there was an exotic air in Istanbul that made it more romantic than the temples on the Acropolis. Come back next week and enjoy it all with us.
