Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, Memory Keeping, Shore Excursions, TRAVEL

Ancient Ephesus with a Chatterbox Guide

MAKING MEMORIES: THE PORT OF KUSADASI, GATEWAY TO ANCIENT EPHESUS

In ancient times, Ephesus itself was an important port on the Aegean Sea, but now the sea has pulled back and the sleepy little town of Kusadasi serves as the gateway to Roman Ephesus. Ephesus was also the home of Mary, the mother of Christ, and his disciple John, according to tradition, the occult and some archeology. Come with us as we explore these ancient sites for ourselves.

An Early Morning Tour

A good friend cruised the Aegean earlier in the year and she thought seeing Mary’s house was one of the highlights of her trip, so I booked that tour, even though it would mean an early departure from the ship, as we did in Athens. So, I was up before Bill and got my shower, ate my breakfast bar and got ready for the day. Bill was interested in breakfast, so we went to the World Cafe for him to browse the buffet and I took advantage of their Diet Coke to offset the one glass too many I’d enjoyed the night before.

We found our bus and were safely in our seats by the 8:30 departure, which did not happen right on time. The daughter portion of a mother/daughter duo showed up to make us wait for her mother. There’s always someone who can’t seem to make it on time. Lo and behold, it was the lady who got lost on Crete. Thankfully, once she made it to the bus that morning, there was no more drama.

When we got on the bus, the guide was talking and she never stopped. OK – she had instructions to give, though we’d already heard them for three days in a row, then she had to let us know what was delaying our departure and then she started giving us the tour highlights, but we got more than the highlights, we not only got lots of details ad nauseum, I began to notice that to keep up her constant chatter, she was also giving us her life history, including the in vitro origins of her twins. TMI, for sure!

Well, I listened the best I could, trying to ferret out the important stuff stuffed in between the life events of a Turkish mother of in vitro twins! Bill on the other hand turned off his headset and snoozed. As part of her ongoing dialog with herself, our guide was quite interested in acquainting us with the goods which would be available at the souvenir shop close to Mary’s House.

Now, according to her, you wanted to go to the open air shop, not to the shop inside the restaurant. The open air shop had the blessed plates and icons. Not all plates and icons were blessed in the shop, but our guide was happy to help you know the difference. She never told us blessed by who or blessed for what, but they were blessed and we needed them – according to her. Even though not blessed, the shop had other merchandise available and she gave us a good run down of those, but assured us she’s be available for assistance during our time at the site.

Visiting Mary’s House

I was all prepped for a truly spiritual experience. The group climbed off the bus and immediately split into two groups. One was all about the blessed platters and the other group headed down the sidewalk, past the souvenir shop, to the holy site.

I took the photo of the the Mary statue, passed by an area with folding chairs, where groups had special ceremonies, and there we were at Mary’s house. The guy next to me looked just like my handsome, sophisticated and extremely smart husband, but when he stepped inside the small building he became a loud mouth skeptic, pointing out all the reasons this couldn’t be where Mary lived. There went my spiritual experience. I had an urge to grab his ear and drag him out of the building, instead I grabbed him by the arm, shushed him and then drug him out the back door.

I wanted to die. Here these people had traveled from all over the world to see this edifice and my husband had just been a very ugly American using his outside voice. He was walking very cocky, like someone who’d just debunked an urban legend. I had to calm myself and breathe before I could even talk to him. So we used the restroom facilities.

When I finally felt as if I could talk to him reasonably in an appropriate tone of voice I asked, “Did you realize the building we went into was not actually the home that Mary lived in, but a recent construction built over the foundation, of what is believed to the real thing?” His answer was more of a snort than anything else, as if to point out how obvious it was that it wasn’t her real house, but after the snort, he kind of got a funny look on his face, as if he were getting clue that he might have missed something.

Then I asked if he’d listened to anything the guide had said about authenticating this location as the home of Mary. Well, then I got an earful of how ridiculous our guide was and of course, he didn’t listen to her. So I replied, “If you had listened, then you would have known…” and I went on to tell him the many reasons why it is generally accepted as Mary’s house by authorities of various disciplines, both historical and religious.”

His demeanor changed somewhat and I scolded him a bit for embarrassing me. I admonished him to either listen to the guides or keep his mouth shut in the future and we can discuss authenticity privately. I had to listen to a little more pushback, blaming his faux pas on the inadequacy of the guide, but he had gotten the message. He wondered if I wanted to go back and see the house again and I assured him I most certainly did not. I was too embarrassed.

So, we headed back towards the bus and there was our guide directing all the shoppers on the proper blessed plates to buy for their homes. While I had no interested in the plates, blessed or unblessed, there was a counter of crosses of various sizes and prices. Had I been alone, I would probably have bought several, along with a handful of the smallest ones, but Bill was in no mood for me to create any benefit for our guide, which certainly she gets if we buy anything or she would not have been as focused on selling us the blessed plates.

Our next stop was the Roman ruins of the port city of Ephesus and there were no doubts about its authenticity. Come back next week for a real treat!

Accommodations, Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, Decorative Arts, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, International, Memory Keeping, Restaurants & Bars, Shore Excursions, TRAVEL

Winter Tourists Traipsing Through a Sleepy Rhodes Town

MAKING MEMORIES: STROLLING UP & DOWN LANES OF HISTORY

Welcome to our mid-winter cruise in the Aegean Sea. The weather kept us from lolling around on sun swept beaches, but it also gave us the opportunity to enjoy a very relaxed day in Rhodes Town. I can only imagine what it’s like when the harbor is full of cruise boats. Tourists would be spilling out in every direction, clogging the streets and trudging in all directions. Instead, our group of perhaps 30 passengers leisurely strolled the empty streets enjoying an idyllic day in an iconic port. Come join us. You’ll love it!

A Perfect Beginning for a Perfect Cruise Day

Since our tour didn’t start until 11:30, Bill and I dressed for the gym and headed to The Restaurant for a sit down breakfast. From there we spent some time in the gym and then rewarded ourselves with a visit to the spa.

I have to tell you the free spa access on Viking ocean-going cruises has to be one of the best things about the experience. Earlier in the year we’d been on Royal Caribbean, where you had to pay for the privilege of hanging out in the spa and the facilities weren’t all that inviting. The Viking spa was spacious, pristine and well-appointed, yet it was free. Of course, you had to pay for specific services like facials, massages and such, but all passengers are invited to relax in Viking’s hot tubs, steam rooms and saunas. For the brave there are cold plunges and I’ve already mentioned the heated chaise lounges which were my favorites.

There were three hot tubs in the main room of the spa. Two were small round spas, much like you’re used to seeing at a hotel or perhaps in someone’s backyard, but the third was the size of a swimming pool. Hotel Grand Pacific in Victoria, British Columbia had something similar, but it didn’t have the seating bars we loved there on Viking. At the end of the spa pool, near the large fireplace, the spa was equipped with a generous set of bars designed to be a sort of couch to sit on in the water. I’m probably not making it sound as wonderful as it was, but we loved it!

Rhodes Town Walk

It was glorious weather! My pullover sweater and jeans were perfect for a day of walking through a beautiful town. We met our guide steps away from the ship and she led us into town through a small gate. One of the first things we saw were the ruins of a splendid church. Then we reached the town center which was quaint and uncrowded. The most predominant population on the streets were cats!

Many shops don’t even bother opening for winter tourists. There were two ships in the harbor, but I think most people had opted for a bus tour to the other side of the island which had Roman ruins. With few exceptions, we were the only ones visiting on this sunny Tuesday.

Our guide was perfect – maybe not on par with Maria in Athens. She set the bar very high. But this lady was pleasant and informative, without wearing us out with the sound of her voice – a situation we would face the next two days. We didn’t realize how good we had it in Rhodes!

Wandering through the nearly empty streets our guide summarized the history of the town, from the days it was a mighty port guarded by one of the Eight Wonders of the Ancient World. As the great Greek and Roman Empires faded away, the Crusades became the primary activity of the Mediterranean and a great Crusader Castle was built on its heights.

We went to what was now called the Crusader Castle, but it wasn’t a relic of the Knights Templar or any other Crusader Army. It had been built in modern times to look like what Mussolini and his gang thought a Crusader Castle should look like. That was a little disappointing, but I can tell you they did a much better job than the Soviets in Bratislava, Slovakia. We went to that “castle” and it was laughable – a concrete shell on a hill for long distant filming. While not authentic, Rhodes Crusader Castle did have the look and feel of an ancient castle. They’d even incorporated relics from those days in the castle’s rooms, so it was probably worth the visit. And what else were we going to do on a lovely day in a lovely town. I’m so glad we strolling through this little town, rather than hustling across the island in tour buses.

Back to the Boat

Once we’d toured the castle, our guide bid us farewell and suggested what streets to visit on our way back to the boat. We were enchanted by the whole thing, but most especially those cats. So far the cruise had not offered many shopping opportunities and even though many of the merchants chose not to open on this particular day, there were a few who did.

I adored this huge sunhat and had I been on my own, it would have probably come home with me, but Bill was appalled at both its size and its price. Further down the street, I was pulled to aside by the look of some very unique necklaces. Chatting with the proprietor of the jewelry store I discovered the necklaces were the work of a designer they’d been working with for 40 years, but she thought it was his best designs, yet.

The price seemed very fair to me, compared to what I’d pay for comparable merchandise in Dallas, so I saw no need to haggle, but the the proprietor haggled for me. As soon as I began to pick up the necklaces and compare them, each one was unique, she named a different price than was on the tag. I told her I was shopping for three of my very good friends and the price went down again. If I’d paid with cash, I could have gotten even more off, but I hadn’t gotten any Greek money and I’d left my dollars on the boat, so she gave me another discount, somewhere between the 3 necklace price and the cash price. I wonder if she ever figured out I would have gladly paid what was on the tag!

This reminded me of a shopping trip in the Caribbean. My bestie and I made a morning of claiming those free trinkets they offer up in port cities to lure you in to jewelry shops. When they asked what I wanted, I would say aquamarine earrings set in yellow gold, because no one ever has those – and then someone did. The original price was very fair, but above the amount I will pay without Bill’s blessing. The salesperson bargained themselves down to almost a third of the original price and Deb insisted I was getting them. She’d pay half and I’d pay half to stay below Bill’s limit. Had I actually been prepared to get the earrings that day, instead of just tossing off a combination I thought they wouldn’t have, I would have paid full price – gladly!

Shopping done, we headed through the gate above to stroll along the shore as we made our way back to the ship. It was time for the Port Talk, so we went to see what Ephesus would be like. I stayed for a future cruise talk and after dressing for dinner, we took in the history lecture. The same guy who made the Greeks boring, also managed to make the Ottoman Empire boring.

For dinner, we went to Manifredi’s the ships Italian specialty restaurant. It was delicious, but too much wine put me right to sleep. Come back tomorrow and let’s go to Ephesus.

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, Decorative Arts, DESTINATIONS, International, Memory Keeping, Museums, Shore Excursions, TRAVEL

A Crazy Day in Crete

MAKING MEMORIES: WHEN YOUR GUIDE IS LESS THAN THE BEST

Our visit to Athens had been perfect and the fun continued into the evening, though our kitty cat did give a little long distance scare. Our day in Crete was designed to be a little more laid back, because our tour was not until that afternoon. Unfortunately, our guide did not meet the high standards Maria had set in Athens. Come find out why!

A Lazy Morning Aboard the Vela

At home in Heath, I wake up around 5 AM. That practice has been with me for decades, long before our cat, Rascal decided he was my alarm clock and perhaps if he wakes me up before 5, I’ll go ahead and feed him – NOT! On the Vela, I woke up at 8. I knew I should probably go to the gym, but instead I picked up my book and read until Bill woke up hungry.

I wasn’t really in a breakfast mood, so I went with Bill to the World Cafe and ate one of the breakfast bars I had brought along, while he browsed the buffet. From there we went to the spa area and Bill did a quick workout, while I enjoyed one of the amazing heated chaise lounges in the spa.

We got ready for the tour and I was hungry for lunch, but Bill wasn’t after his big breakfast, so I went on my own and had some delicious beef bourguignon. There was even a delicious gf dessert with chocolate and cherries.

Tour Time

Bill has an uncanny ability to read people from just a glance. I was excited about our tour to the Heraklion Archeological Museum, but Bill sensed immediately trouble was ahead. We soon discovered he was right. Along with the museum, this shore excursion included a walking tour of the city, so we were a little concerned when a wheel-chairbound passenger was brought aboard. So was our guide.

In the most polite terms possible, our guide explained the ancient city of Heraklion was not handicap accessible. The husband and son asked a few questions and then announced they’d handle it. The guide tried again to explain the difficulties, but they were having none of it.

So, our guide started the tour and did a short spiel about his island, which he proceeded to repeat over and over again in various iterations throughout the rest of the tour. The whole wheelchair thing was not really his doing, but before the day was over we were totally done with him!

The Heraklion Archeological Museum

I loved this museum. Before we got out of the lobby of it, I figured out we had already heard everything the guide had to say about his island. So, while I stayed within earshot of him to avoid getting lost, I took in the displays at my own pace and depended on my own knowledge of the Mycenean civilization, which was apparently more comprehensive than his. I didn’t find it necessary to display my total disdain for him.

Bill on the other hand found this an impossible endeavor. For one thing he was incredibly irritated by everything about this guy, from the timbre of his voice to his monotonous dialog to his attitude towards the participants of the shore excursion. For another he knew absolutely nothing about the Mycenean civilization. In protest, Bill turned off his headset and sat in the chairs provided against the wall in whatever gallery I was enjoying.

My favorite moment in the museum was when I saw the two statuettes in the center of the left page above. I have been looking at these ladies in photos for over five decades now. I am fascinate by the place and the time they lived in. Seeing them was a best among bests experience on this cruise.

When our time in the museum was over the trouble began. Our guide abandoned the rest of us on the patio of the museum to take the lady in the wheelchair and her family to a restaurant many blocks away, where a bus would pick them up and take them back to the boat. Now we knew this guy was more than a disappointment. He was an idiot.

When he finally got back, one woman was frantic, because her husband had disappeared some time while she was in the museum. Several other people had wandered off to do some exploring on their own while the guide escorted the family to the bus stop.

He should never have abandoned all of us for a group he’d warned not to come. He should have called either the boat or his tour company, gotten some help with the family and taken the rest of us on our walking tour. I know he could have made that call, because later he had to, because he lost another one of his charges later on.

He abandoned us again, to go look for the missing husband and thankfully found him. About the time the husband showed up, the other people who had wandered off reappeared and we headed off on our walking tour.

The Walking Tour

Gathering up his charges, our guide took us to one of those “You-Are-Here” signs on the edge of a shopping area. He explained several times where we were in relation to the bus (parked catty corner to the museum), and the sign we were looking at. Then he trotted off, telling us to hurry up, because we didn’t have much time.

At the end of a passageway, he came to a famous fountain on a square. This is where he should have stopped and released us to have some free time. He also should have stayed RIGHT THERE to lead us back to the bus.

Instead, after giving us a few moments at the fountain, he headed off to the right and started giving options about beaches, walking back to the boat, sites to visit and the shopping area. He walked us back to the fountain and headed back to the bus, telling us when we had to show up there, which was only about 15 minutes from that moment.

One lady in particular was totally freaked out about finding her way to the bus. Instead of saying, then come with me now, he spent another five minutes giving her direction before he disappeared.

I was ready to follow him back to the bus, but Mr. Bill wanted to do a little exploring. We actually did see a great little shop and bought a gift for our traumatized pet sitter, but then we had to head back. I have a pretty good sense of direction, but even I got a little lost on the way back to the bus. I only missed the parking lot by about a block and when I got back to the street with the museum, knew exactly where to go. We were on time.

Remember the frantic lady? Well, she never showed up. He went out searching for her and returned alone. He finally called his tour agency and let them know he’d lost a patron. He rode the bus back with us to the ship, but few, if any, were stopping to give him a tip. Most of us were livid. I marked it up to the adventures of traveling. Bill was among the livid.

Thankfully, as we walked away, another bus showed up and the missing lady was on it. I guess all’s well that ends well, but with a different guide, it might have been one of the most awesome tours on the cruise. With him it wasn’t.

The next day the ship pulled into Rhodes and we had a much more pleasant day. I hope you’ll come back next week and enjoy it with me.

Accommodations, Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, Memory Keeping, Museums, Photography, Restaurants & Bars, Shore Excursions, TRAVEL

Athens and the Acropolis

MAKING MEMORIES: A MARVELOUS DAY OF TOURING

Let the fun begin! We’d arrived in our first Port of Call and it was almost a perfect day. Come along and enjoy it with us.

Getting with the Routine

We needed to board our tour bus at 8:15, so I was up at six. I woke Bill an hour later. Then we navigated to the World Cafe Buffet for breakfast. The room was quite crowded, but we got our food and found a place to sit. The scenery as you can see above was out of this world. Left to his own devices, Bill would have spent the morning making the most of the buffet and taking photos. I encouraged him not to linger over breakfast and allowed him to take one photo, but then it was time to go to the bus.

The buses were close to the gangway and we knew right away we were going to love our guide, Maria. We were on our way, right on time through Piraeus Harbor, you see above. The streets of Athens were empty, but it was a Sunday morning, so we sat back and enjoyed what Maria had to say.

Up, Up and UP!

Before you could say Aristotle Onassis, we were being ushered out of the bus. We began our climb up the Acropolis. I’d been warned it was a treacherous climb, but I actually found it quite easy.

We climbed up one set of stairs to a big plaza. Maria talked a little bit about potty breaks and what to expect next. Then we headed up a series of terraced steps to another plaza. This was the last toilet facility for a while, so Maria gave us time to use the facilities, which I did not need. Bill was busy taking photos and I was enchanted by all the cats.

Soon Maria was gathering us all up again and we headed up another set of stairs and headed off to the ruins where a more ancient series of steps waited for us. This was the real beginning of the tour and where the Athenians themselves once entered the Acropolis to worship their Gods.

These steps were a little more treacherous than the others were, but there were hand rails and it was no trouble. At the top, was the Parthenon and Maria gave us the info we needed to appreciate what we were seeing. Then she sort of set us loose to enjoy the Acropolis at our leisure and told us to meet her back at Older Temple of Athena at a certain time.

I’m saying all this very matter-of-fact, but for me it was a bit surreal. Just the day before I had been battling the vagaries of modern air travel and here I was walking where the greats of history walked. And not just people from the early days of Athens, but all the luminaries of history, including the Romans, Turks and others who had visited this spot. It was a little unreal.

We enjoyed the photo opportunities and eventually Maria gathered all of us to walk us around the Older Temple of Athena. She told us about the Carytid Statues which held up the roof of the porch and walked around to the spot where Athena planted the first olive tree for Athens, winning the city over to herself, rather than the mighty Neptune. It was a giddy experience.

Escaping Through a Back Entrance

Maria led us to an exit which was much more humble than the Grand Propylaea which had led us to the Parthenon. As we headed down, she pointed out sites which I actually found more interesting than those atop the Acropolis, because they were unknown to me. I began to understand even more clearly why the Acropolis had been so important to the ancient Greeks.

On to the Acropolis Museum

Our next stop was spectacular. We were standing in front of the Acropolis Museum. As they dug down to build the foundation of the museum, they discovered fantastic archeological sites. Instead of destroying the ruins or abandoning the museum, they came up with a wonderful compromise which allowed both to co-exist. Archeologists still explore the ruins, while busload after busload of tourists enjoy the museum. At the entrance of the museum, you can see down into the ruins and at several spots within the museum, plexiglass floors allow you to peer into the past.

That is if you look down and it is hard to take the time to do so, because everything around you is so amazing. These are the real treasures of the Acropolis. What you see up the hill are wonderful replicas, which keep the actual treasures safe from the elements. I could use up all my superlatives and still not describe the excitement I felt to see these wonderful artifacts.

We wandered with wonder through gallery after gallery and eventually ended up in the gallery for the Elgin Marbles. There Maria told us the trick Lord Elgin had played on the Sultan in Istanbul, which landed these glorious statues in the British Museum. As a reverse of the other exhibits, these were the fakes and Britain is holding the real artifacts hostage. The nations disagree over the details, but the Greeks hope that someday the real Elgin Marbles will make their way back to Athens. I sort of agree with the Greeks. This is the home of the Elgin Marbles.

Back to the Ship

We’d done a lot of touring in a very short time. For five hours we’d enjoyed the best of Ancient Athens. Now it was time to enjoy the very best of cruising with Viking.

Come back next week and peek into our afternoon aboard the Viking Vela.

Cruising, Gardens, International, Shopping, Shore Excursions, TRAVEL

RC, That’s More Like It

MEMORY MAKING: THE BETTER SHORE EXCURSIONS

Having Fun in Spite of the Challenges

After the Shore Excursion FAIL in Tulum, we didn’t have much in the way of expectations when it came to Roatan, but it turned into a pretty wonderful day. The same with Costa Maya. We’d had the awful Jaguar Paw Debacle, but our bike ride and kayaking in Costa Maya, though not wonderful, was fine. Come along and enjoy these days with us.

Happy in Honduras

From the moment our ship pulled into port at Roatan, it looked as if we might be having a better day than we did in Tulum. The area around the port was very inviting and fresh, as if they’d had their gala grand opening the day before. Not at all the gloomy ferry docks of Cozumel.

We hurried through the inviting port area and found our shore excursion bus. A very short, scenic, tropical drive took us to Carambola Gardens and we were greeted by festively dressed employees who heartily welcomed us. They led us to a covered pavilion where in the shade of towering trees we participated in a very informative demonstration. Cacao beans were turned into chocolate the old fashioned way and we even got to try it out ourselves and make some dessert.

As the chocolate hardened, we were taken on a tour of the gardens. It was surprising to me, because there were no flowers. That’s what I think of when someone tells me we’re going to take a garden tour. Instead we were introduced to a wide variety of tropical trees and plants. A very sweet guide told us the fruit produced by each plant or tree and how the fruit and other various parts were used. I wished for some flowers, but was pleased by what was presented.

We returned to the collection of buildings and pavilions for a delicious lunch, topped off by the chocolate we had made ourselves. On the way out there was a shopping opportunity and I found this really cute bag I couldn’t live without!

Back in the port area, we had even more shopping opportunities and if we’d wanted to, we could have spent the afternoon hanging out at their pool. It was really a very nice place. Were I to go back today, I’d plan to spend my day there perhaps and not even take a shore excursion – it was that good.

Puerto Costa Maya, Mexico

When it comes to shore excursions, I try to mix it up. We’d done a historical/archeological tour to Tulum, chocolate making in Roatan and cave floating in Belize. A nice coastal bike ride and kayaking sounded like a great way to round out our activities – especially since for some reason Royal Caribbean thought anyone over 65 was too old for four wheeling. I hold that against them, too. I’m sure I’m more fit and able to drive an ATV that some of the 20 and 30 something passengers who were cruising with us. Not to worry though, I will not ever cruise Royal Caribbean again – even if it were free!

Though it was not as awful as the Jaguar Paw Experience, our Bike & Clear Kayak Adventure didn’t turn out exactly as I had imagined. We found our shore excursion group in the meeting area and followed our guide to our bikes. They’d seen better days, but they worked, so we jumped on and rode away in a line behind the guide.

I’d imagined biking through gorgeous tropical and/or beach scenes. For the first half of the ride we rode through what looked like one abandoned construction site after another. It was disheartening and disappointing. Eventually, we did come to a sort of beach boardwalk, but there were no boards, only bricks. It was early enough in the morning that vendors were setting up their wares and few people were enjoying the beach. Our guide led us to a fenced-in cafe where we were told to park our bikes and go to the patio.

We were given bottles of water and told to get ready for kayaking. We put on our water shoes eagerly, claimed our craft and headed out into the water. These were clear bottomed kayaks, but there was nothing to see except water, sand and some grasses growing in the water. It was great to be out on the water, but I’d hoped to see something exciting as I paddled along. Entirely too soon, they were rounding us up for the ride back to the port.

While I’d hoped for more, they’d delivered everything they promised. So, while it will not go down as my favorite shore excursion ever, it was a grand event compared to some of the other excursions I’d suffered through on this cruise.

The next day was a day at sea and talk about suffering, we were SO tired of the disappointing routine on Vision of the Seas. The food is perhaps the thing that discouraged us the most. On most cruises, the food is an important part of the entertainment, but there was nothing entertaining about this cruises’ food.

We loved our dinner mates and our server really did try to show us a good time, but the food was subpar. In fact, no matter which dining venue we went to for a meal, Bill ended up at the snack bar getting another piece of pizza or a sandwich. I would have joined him were it not for my gluten free issues. At least there WAS a snack bar, but that’s a sad way to nourish yourself for a week!

On Day 8 we disembarked, flew back to Dallas and were never so happy to be home. I’d been toying with the idea of using a vacation club deal to go to Florida, but this experience was so bad I decided if I want to go on vacation, by golly, I was just going to pay for it! Of course, that didn’t keep us from accepting a $1200 voucher for getting bumped from a flight. And we did decide to go to Florida, but not to the vacation club. Come back next week and travel with us to Pensacola and Navarre Beach.

Architecture, ART, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, Shore Excursions, TRAVEL

Shore Excursion Hell

MAKING MEMORIES: MAKING THE BEST OF BAD SITUATIONS

On this cruise we took four shore excursions and two of them featured the worst tour guides we ever had, one was pleasant and the fourth was merely disappointing. But look at those happy faces we have. We truly made the best of it wherever we were.

I Don’t CARE About Modern Day Mayans, What is this Building?

Our first shore excursion was to Tulum, a place I’d longed to see for a long, long time. The day started on a ferry ride so rough, I got seasick for one of the few times in my life. I didn’t need the barf bag, but almost.

We meet up with a chubby, jovial fellow who took us on a quick trot through Playa del Carmen. I usually enjoy walking, but the day was miserably hot and I was still a little woozy from the churning sea.

We climbed onto a bus for the hour long drive to Tulum. The tour guide almost immediately jumped into a lecture about Modern Day Mayans, of which he was one, and that remained his subject for the rest of the day. I was having deja vu all over again. I thought I was on St. Martin with Josay.

At Tulum, he guided us through a marketplace, warning us only to shop at his recommended shops and then drug us at top speed through the Archeological Park. If you hesitated to take a photo, good luck catching up to him. His commentary still focused on Modern Day Mayas and if you dared to ask him a question about the ruins, then he’d just be quiet while you asked and then go on talking about Modern Day Mayans. Then he abandoned us to find our way back to the bus at the given hour.

Tulum is beautiful. Bill and I strolled around taking photos, but without a guide, we were a little lost, especially since there were no signs bearing any explanation in any language. We had no idea what we were looking at and we gave up guessing. We strolled back to the bar our guide had recommended for cheap margaritas.

Eventually the guide showed up and allowed us back on the bus. He was blissfully silent for the return trip. In Playa del Carmen he dumped us in shopping district and disappeared again. We fought off aggressive vendors and found the beach, but mostly we just hung around until we could catch the ferry back to the boat. That’s how sad the tour was. We preferred being on the boat. This guide got to hold the title of worst guide ever for two whole days and then we had a worse one.

Un-Belize-Able

I’ll skip right to the worst guide EVER!! I’d heard from many people that Belize is heaven on earth. For us it was hell. The whole day was so bad, I didn’t take a single photo. You tell me! Doesn’t Jaguar Paw Cave Tubing & Jungle Trek with Lunch sound amazing? NOT!! It was like Eternal Ride on a Bad Bus with the Worst Guide EVER!

The tour began in a jewelry store and we were there forever. At least it was air conditioned. I think they kept us there until someone finally broke down and bought something. As we climbed on the bus, we realized it wasn’t exactly state of the art. If we’d realized how far away Jaguar Paw Cave was, I might have balked.

Trying to warm up his patrons, within the first mile the guide made a joke. He pointed out some site and said, “Can you Belize it? Un-Belize-Able! You better Belize it!” That was just the first time he made the quip, which was repeated over and over and over and over and over and over and…well I think you get the picture.

The road to the interior was a yawn. Nothing to see on the dusty backroads than what I see on the dusty backroads of Texas. I was so done with buses by the time we arrived at Jaguar Paw. Once we pulled into their entrance we were given our orders: pay for a locker, put your stuff there, wait to be called, go into the jungle.

I get they need to make money, but $12 for a tiny locker which you only need during the very brief cave tour. Now that was Un-Belize-Able, but we were a captive audience with no other options.

When our number was called we were excited to be going on a jungle trek. NOT! The “trek” was about as long as half a city block with a well worn trail. Entering the cave and climbing aboard the innertube was the most excitement we experienced that day. The water was chilly but not miserable.

As I climbed aboard I looked around and wondered where this float was going to go. I could see the end of the cave just ahead. We floated pleasantly for a few minutes and then were instructed to get out and walk about on the shore. Not sure why. Nothing to see.

Back in the tube and back to the entrance. There was a deeper section near the entrance and we were invited to swim, but it was such a short distance you could have almost hopped from your tube to the exit area, so everyone just enjoyed the last few moments of the float.

Then we were sent back on the “jungle trek” and our free meal. I’ll say this. It was better than what they were feeding us on the cruise, but not by much. We killed time until everyone had their float and feed, then climbed back on the awful bus. Thankfully the guide didn’t have much to say, which was good, one more UN-Belize-Able and I would have been contemplating murder.

As we neared the port, the guide did hit us with a few more repetitions of his signature line, but I was numb by then, so his life was never actually in danger. We filed off the bus and through the shopping opportunity, anxious for some reason to get back on the boat.

One thing that made this cruise tolerable was marvelous dinner companions. We were lucky enough to be a part of the cool kids table and they made our evenings very pleasant. From there we’d always head to the auditorium for whatever was being offered for entertainment that evening – always a disappointment. Used to be cruise ship entertainers were among the best of the best, but something has happened since used to be. They’re tired, the costumes are cheap and the scenery is minimal. Yawn.

This was the worst of it. Our other two shore excursions weren’t bad. In fact one of them was downright pleasant. Come back next week for a better time!

Architecture, ART, Attractions, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, International, Restaurants & Bars, Shore Excursions, TRAVEL

The Last Day of Cruising

Palma de Mallorca, Tapas Walking Tour, Beewi Tapas Bar
Spanish tortilla mushrooms in a sauce patatas bravas and a typical Mallorca sweet cake at Beewi in Palma de Mallorca

TRAVEL THERE: TAPAS TASTING IN PALMA DE MALLORCA

Confession, this is where my travel journal ended.  For some reason I happily journaled all through the trip and just quit after our day on the French Rivera. Another confession, while I blogged about most of this trip in the weeks right after the cruise, life got busy and I took a break that lasted longer than I anticipated.  So eleven months after the cruise, here I am finishing up the last few posts of this trip.  Glad you are still with me. 

Large Storm in a Small Teacup

While traveling is fun, it is also tiring and while traveling with your friends has a lot of benefits, after the trial by vacation we’d been on, it was time to go home.  Everyone needed some personal down time, but it was still a few days away.

One of the things that got my visit to Monaco off on the wrong foot was a scheduled meeting with the photographer.  Bill hadn’t wanted to have a photographer at the vow renewal ceremony in the first place, because he thinks the onboard photography thing is a racket – one that charges entirely too much.  However, the photographer was non-negotiable.  Since he didn’t want the photographer there, he really wasn’t interested in a meeting with them to look at the photos and when it conflicted with his desire to go visit Monaco, well, Monaco won.  I’m so ruled by the things that I am supposed to do, that I wasn’t able to blow off the appointment with as much aplomb as he was, especially since there was no way to contact her and let her know what was going on.  We just stood her up.  I felt bad for the photographer.  She was just trying to do her job.  

Eventually, she got in contact with us and I was able to apologize.  The appointment was reset for this day.  If we had gone in Monaco, then we would have gone on our own and quite possibly would have said thanks, but no thanks, except for perhaps a few as gifts to our friends.  As it was, we ended up with the whole crew of us in the very small space of the photo office and not everyone was on the same page.  It was also the very last moment.  If we didn’t make a decision right then, there would be no photos for anyone.

The photos were beautiful.  The price was astronomical.  Some folks thought that I should have every single one.  Bill was paralyzed with sticker shock.  I just wanted it to be over.  We arrived at a compromise that wasn’t quite what anyone wanted, but we moved on.

The Shore Excursion

Everyone went their separate ways after the photo storm.  We knew we’d be seeing each other at 2:15 for the Tapas Walking Tour.  The meeting place instructions changed and even after we started gathering on the pier, there seemed to be some sort of question about where we were supposed to be.  I think our crew was almost as ready for us to go home as we were.

The good news was our guide was somewhat better on this day.  She loaded us on a bus and delivered us to  Bellver Castle.  It was really just a photo op with a great view of the harbor.  From there, they parked the bus and we set out on foot.

Our first tapas stop was El Pesquero, a sea-side patio restaurant.  The food was delicious and the patio was amazing.  I personally could have just stayed there and been perfectly happy.

El Pesquero was in the shadow of the old cathedral, so our walking tour began there.  We passed lovely plazas and canals along the way and then we arrived at Beewi.  Beewi was just a small cafe with nothing much to recommend it, besides the food and what they served was delicious.  Deb and I agreed the view in the cafe was also quite nice, if you like to look at handsome Spanish men.

Next up was Es Rebost where we were able to order whatever we wanted.  I went for something with beef, since we hadn’t had any of that yet.  Then it was time to head back to the boat, where an absolute delight waited for us.  Come back next week and see what I mean.

Attractions, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, Restaurants & Bars, Road Trips, Shopping, Shore Excursions, TRAVEL

It’s Nice in Nice!

Travel There: Lunch and Shopping in Nice

Life on a cruise:  another bus ride, another meeting point and another meal.  That about sums it up, but come on with me and enjoy Nice.  While I’d still take Cap d’Antibes over Nice, there nothing not to enjoy about the city.

An Dining Opportunity

One thing I can easily say about this trip is that we bought more food onshore than we usually do on cruises.  Some of that may have been because our shore excursions were such marathons and not all of them included a meal.  However, I think it also had a lot to do with Jim and Melanie.  One of their primary interests at every stop was where to eat and drink, while Bill and me on our own tend to find other things to do.  I’m not complaining though.  It was fun.

Though it seemed as if we’d just left the sidewalk cafe in Cap d’Antibes, the first order of business in Nice was to find another sidewalk cafe.  This time it was Le Gande Balcon and we were getting more than a snack. 

Bill and I both had prawns and oh my goodness, I have rarely seen such big ones.  Mine came with pasta and Bill’s came with risotto.   Glasses of wines and adult beverages were enjoyed by all.

A Shopping Opportunity

Le Grande Balcon was in the middle of a shopping area.  Nearby shops filled the sidewalks with their wares and a little further down was an open air market.  We’d all been so busy being tourists, very little shopping had been happening, in spite of all the shopping opportunities the guides had forced on us.  Those opportunities usually came with a pretty heft price tag.  Though there was one more day of touring left, no one wanted to get home without the requisite souvenirs, so after our wonderful meal, we hit the shops.

The shop closest to the restaurant had laminated place-mats and for some reason Bill was all over them.  He picked out four odd place-mats – two with roosters and two with cartoon cats.  They were the absolute last thing I would have chosen as a souvenir of this trip, but hey, Bill rarely shows any interest in any souvenirs.  So, if he wanted plastic place-mats, by golly, I thought he should get plastic place-mats.

Further down I found a shop of linen goods.  They had a darling dress I knew my sweet next door neighbor would love, so I had to get that.  Continuing down the street we wandered into the open air market.  I found a delightful vendor offering gifts of lavender sachets in the printed cotton which Provence is known for.  That’s where I bought my souvenirs.

Visiting the Beach

There wasn’t much time left, but we wanted to get a few pictures of the gorgeous beach.  We headed back to the meeting point, which had been across from the beach.  We wished for a few more hours to explore the area, but we had minutes, not hours.  Another reason for us to head back to the French Rivera someday.

After having time for just a few photos, it was time to get on the bus and ride back to the ship. We had a quiet afternoon in our cabin.  Bill napped.  I caught up on my journal and did some reading.

That evening the rest of the gang had decided to fork out big bucks to eat at Eden.  They say it was fabulous and for the first time in his life, Bill actually admitted that he wished he’d had any idea it would have been so good.  He actually wished that he had spent the money.

Instead, we had dinner at the Cosmopolitan, which was actually the third time we ate there.  I was surprised Bill didn’t want to go back to the Italian or French restaurant, but I think it may have had more to do with proximity than anything else.  We enjoyed the downtime.

After dinner we took in a show called Gilly and Girl in the Theater.  It fit the easy-going mood of the day – just a couple doing love songs and ballads.  We strolled the shopping area where various events were supposed to be happening, but it was all just a come on to get passengers shopping.

Even the shopkeepers didn’t want to participate, so we just went back to our cabin.  Guess what!  We’d both left our keycards in the room and had to go back to guest services.  We giggled all the way there and all the way back to the room.  We’ve traveled entirely too much to have both made that mistake on the same evening – but that’s just what we’d done!

One day of touring left.  Come back next week for Palma de Mallorca.

 

 

Attractions, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, Restaurants & Bars, Shore Excursions, TRAVEL

Welcome to the French Rivera

TRAVEL THERE: CANNES, CAP D’ANTIBES AND NICE

The French Rivera surprised me.  I thought my favorite day would be Florence, but it turned out to be this day.  Travel always brings surprises.  Come enjoy this day with us.

Relaxing and Fun

Don’t faint.  We didn’t have a single museum or historical site to visit today.  I’d done some research and hadn’t been able to find much to get excited about it.  In fact, I had lobbied for a bus tour to some Provence Villages or a tour of the Provence perfume industry.  I was voted down and I am so very glad.

It was another early morning gathering in the Theater and then a ride to shore on a tender.  From there, we boarded a bus.  The tour guide was in a dead heat for last place with the lady in Florence.  In fact, this one didn’t even rate as a tour guide.  She was more like a room mother on a field trip.  Nice, but not much else.

Cap d’Antibes, the “S” is Silent

We got off our bus in Cap ‘d Antibes.  Our guide trotted down the street a bit with us, pointed us toward a cobblestone path and then told us when to come back.  

The picture above shows us wandering along the water’s edge unchaperoned and not quite sure what we were looking at.  If the view had not been so fantastic we might actually have minded, but we didn’t.  We could have gone to the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, but we didn’tWe could have gone to a Pablo Picasso Museum, but we didn’t.

Instead, we decided to find a sidewalk cafe and just enjoy ourselves.  It turned into a bit of a trudge, but the weather was ideal, the scenery was amazing.  I particularly fell in love with the house with the blue shutters.  I am quite certain I could spend several weeks there, reading great books on the patio and enjoying the view.

Eventually, we found a sidewalk cafe and to our delight, there was a sort of street market going on.  Since we didn’t have a guide, I can’t tell you whether it was the usual thing or just something happening on the Thursday we were there.

We communicated our dining needs to our waitress and were glad they had a restroom we could use.  We had our coffee and/or sodas and then headed back the way we came.  There had been a sort of Farmers Market going on and we decided we wanted to mingle a little with the locals.  Except for a pickpocket thinking Viktoriya’s bag was a potential target, we enjoyed the time we lingered there.

Too soon, it was time to meet our non-guide.  I would have happily continued to wander Cap d’Antibes.  At the meeting point, by a marina, local kids were having a go at something that resembled a boccie ball game.  People wandered back in a leisurely manner, but I had none of the hurry-up attitude I usually possess.  You know, let’s hurry up and see this so we can see the next thing.  I could have sat there for an hour watching the kids and their game.

Eventually, we sauntered back to the bus and headed to Nice.  I couldn’t imagine that Nice would be any better in any way than Cap d’Antibes, but I was also too lazy to begin some sort of campaign to stay, which would involve figuring out how to get back to the boat.

Nice was nice, but, as I had anticipated, it didn’t beat Cap d’Antibes for me.  In fact, of all the places we went on this cruise, Cap d’Antibes is the one I would be the quickest to return to.  Yes, I need to go back to Rome and see all the sites I missed.  I’d like more time in Florence.  I think Capri has the potential to be wonderful.  but Cap d’Antibes?  I just want to go be there.

However, I didn’t get to, at least not yet, so come back next week and let’s take a look at Nice.

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, Decorative Arts, DESTINATIONS, International, Music, Performing Arts, Restaurants & Bars, Shore Excursions, TRAVEL

Visiting Monte Carlo’s Prince’s Palace

TRAVEL THERE: THE GRIMALDI’S PRINCE’S PALACE

Black SUV’s whisked us from the Yacht Club to the Palace.  That’s probably the last time I’ll be able to say something like that about my own travels, so perhaps it was worth the splurge.  Since we weren’t actually VIP’s, they parked about a block away, near the Cathedral and we strolled over to the palace.

Visiting the Palace

Virtually anyone can make day visits the palace during the summer and fall, as long as it’s not Grand Prix weekend.  However, the tourists are shuffled off at closing time.  We had after-hours access, which means we went to the same places, just at a different time.

The Grimaldi’s were gracious hosts to us cruisers.  We didn’t see any of them, but they gave us the run of the state apartments and provided some very nice young ladies to act as guides.  The run of the state apartments did not include taking any pictures, so to see what we saw, you’d have to go to the website.  My general impressions were the apartments showed a great amount of good taste, a good bit more than some of the gaudy displays of some state apartments.  However, they were at the same time smaller than most I’ve seen before.

For Americans, this palace is almost a must-see, because evidence of our own American fairy tale, Princess Grace of Monaco, is in plain sight.  Having just watched a Hallmarkish commoner-meets-and-marries-a-prince movie last night, I know we are still very much in love with the story of this lovely lady.

Photo Opportunities

Before and after the tour we were welcome to take photos of the outside the palace.  The red carpets and kneelers are not part of the every day look.  They were setting up for some kind of religious ceremony and around the corner at the cathedral there was a lot of activity, so no telling what that was about.

All that was left was to get back into our SUV’s and travel back to the ship.  Our day in Monte Carlo was over.

Grabbing a Show and Dinner and a Show

Back on the boat, Deb, Bill and I went to Hype with Marcus Terrell at the Theater.  We weren’t much impressed.  His greatest asset was volume, but he was surrounded with lots of energetic gyrating dancers.  Nothing as fascinating as Hot Summer’s Night we’d seen a day or so ago.

After the show, it was time for dinner and all of us met for dinner in the Cosmopolitan.  It was the same menu they had offered for their embarkation lunch.  This is the weakness of their dining plan.  Sure you have a variety of dining rooms, but once you’ve eaten in one, there’s no reason to go back.  That’s probably because they are trying to encourage you to drop a few bucks in their specialty dining rooms, but with all we’d spent already, that wasn’t happening.

Our companions were ready for bed when the meal was over, but Bill and I wandered into the Club and saw an acrobatic show called Mirage.  It had some good parts, but their tricks all began to look the same after awhile.

Still not ready to call it a night, I pulled the daily newsletter out of my purse and unfolded it.  They had something called the Color the Night White Party happening on the Resort Deck, so we decided to check it out.

I don’t know about you, but I am just about done with the whole White Party thing.  Isn’t it time to let that one die a natural death?  The Edge was trying to jazz it up some, with a variety of colorful lights, but as you can see, it’s a pretty dead scene.  I must not be the only one tired of White Parties.

I think if there had been anything else to do, we might have continued to wander, but it seemed the ship was rolling in its sidewalks – unless you wanted to sit in some bar and rack up some beverage billing, so off we went to bed.

The next day our stop was Cannes.  Come back next week and I’ll share my favorite shore excursion with you.