Our time in Egypt is coming to an end. We are on our way back to Cairo from Alexandria. We had a couple of detours, but made it in time to get on the boat for a family celebration. Come along for the ride.
Alex to Cairo
After our visit to the archaeological sites in Carmous, we’d planned to take in another important historical contribution to Egypt’s culture. The early introduction of Christianity to Egypt had an interesting by-product. Egyptians eagerly embraced monotheism and added their own particular brand of devotion – monasticism. Egyptian monastic aesthetes led the the way in creating places for men and women to withdraw from the world and serve Jesus Christ.
That was the plan, but then there were the Good Friday massacres. In response to these horrific bombings, the Roman Catholic pope was going to make a visit to Egypt – unprecedented in modern times. This was good news for Christianity in Egypt, but it had some side effects. One of them was the closing of the monasteries to outside visitors in the days leading up to the visit.
In true Egyptian fashion, we had to arrive at the gate of the monastery to find out they were closed, but it was a nice detour. We got off the main road to travel through some rural areas and small towns on the way to the monastery. It was the Muslim holy day and it was great to see all the white clad men in their caftans and turbans walking to their place of worship. I rode along thinking about the juxtaposition of these two forms of worship. Then we got to the gate and discovered what had seemed like such a tranquil setting was actually hiding the age old conflict between Christian and Muslim.
Our Potty Stop
So, we’d enjoyed the restroom facilities near Pompey’s Pillar. I assumed I’d be able to visit the restroom again at the monastery, but we were turned away at the gate. Religious differences aside, I needed a toilet. Besides the obvious issue, I had another problem. Women are supposed to wear long sleeves at the monastery and if they are wearing a skirt, it should be long and there should be no bare legs or feet. In other words I was about to burn up.
Izzat didn’t seem real happy about finding a restroom for us to visit, but as always he assured us he would take care of our needs. Did you ever see the movie Deliverance? Well there was no river with wooded shores when we stopped at a roadside convenience store, but I could have sworn I heard the soundtrack playing – just not on the banjo.
I made short work of my wardrobe adjustments and potty stop. Then I high-tailed it back to the car. I think Bill and Izzat got some snacks, but I wasn’t going to waste any time. Izzat was a perfect driver, but he was awful at finding restrooms. I don’t think that was from a lack of trying, but a scarcity of facilities. We’d had difficulty with this at both ends of the trip to Alexandria.
Cairo is up next and you’ll love The Pharaoh Cruise. See you next week
TRAVEL THERE: KOM ASH SHUQQAFA, POMPEY’S PILLAR & THE SERAPEUM
We’d chosen The Cecil Hotel, because it was right on the Mediterranean and right in the middle of most of the things we wanted to see, but from my first bits of research I knew I’d have to get to the neighborhood of Carmous somehow, because it was Ground Zero for the Greeks and Romans in Ancient Alexandria. We scheduled Izzat, our driver to take us there on the way back to Cairo.
Kom Ash Shuqqafa
As I’ve complained about before, researching Egyptian attractions is an exercise in frustration. You get fifteen dozen sites listing various things to see and do, but they all say the same things about them and what they say doesn’t give you much of a hint about what you are actually going to see. The information about Kom Ash Shuqqafa let me know I really needed to see it, but I figured that out more from intuition than actual data.
Part of the problem is that you have a hard time trying to guess what to Google. Arabic words must be spelled phonetically and you have to guess which spelling has the most information. Google is very good about reading your mind – until it comes to spelling, then it goes wacky. Once I’d been to Kom Ash Shuqqagfa, I came home and found this excellent article on Lonely Planet which does a better job than I could describing it, but nothing this clear was available when I was doing my research.
Kom Ash Suqqafa is a catacomb – as in people are buried there, but that information doesn’t prepare you for what you will see. Above ground there’s not much. In the picture above you see some stone burial vaults, but that doesn’t begin to prepare you for the visual feast you’ll see under ground. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed in the catacombs so I can’t show you all the wonders. The best I can do is tell you to imagine an elaborately carved dining hall and surround it with beautiful private mausoleums.
The entrance to the catacombs is on the backside of a small mound. The disarray and neglect of the surrounding ground could discourage you from entering, but press on. Unfortunately, this is not a site for the physically handicapped. Entry is via a spiral staircase – period. The dead used to arrive by ropes, but no special effort has been made to be accommodating to anyone. The staircase is a bit of a challenge, so be sure to wear study shoes. Once down there, you’ll also need to watch your footing.
We thoroughly enjoyed this site. It was a wonder of Egyptian ingenuity. If you want to go, it’s really off the beaten path and you’ll need to make a special effort, but I encourage anyone headed to Alex to include this site.
Pompey’s Pillar & the Serapeum
This site was also under publicized, but totally worth it. Once you’re there, it’s a little more tourist friendly than the Catacombs. Pompey’s Pillar and the Serapeum are what’s left of an extensive Greek and Roman architectural dig. Sometime ago they built a walkway around the site and added signage to tell you what you are seeing.
Pompey’s Pillar was not actually built by Pompey, but the misnaming stuck. It was built to honor the Roman Emperor Diocletian, but only the historians among us actually care. The Serapeum was the name of a Greek temple of which only a single sphinx remains.
The attraction was a perfect way to end our visit to Alex. A very modern Egyptian neighborhood surrounds the ancient Greek and Roman site. For awhile, these outsiders ruled Egypt, but time defeated them and now the Egyptians have won back their territory. The site is on a hill and from there the view is great.
Enjoy these photos and join me next week for our trip back to Cairo.
Yes, we did finally find The Fish Market Restaurant, but that’s not where we had lunch. Let me tell you about our midday meal before getting to dinner.
Return to the Food Court
When Bill was finally able to drag me out of The Royal Jewelry Museum it was past lunch time. Those big buffet breakfasts came in handy, but eventually you have to eat. Bill recognized the neighborhood as being the one where the Four Seasons Hotel, Mall and Food Court had been and I found it on the map I was carrying. We were only a few blocks away. We’d been exploring new things for hours. Something familiar sounded good.
We had a nice meal and did a little wandering around in the Four Seasons. Then we headed outside to find a cab, because we were going to take a look at Montazza, one of King Farouk’s palaces. Bill was quite excited by the prospect of visiting a favorite childhood memory, but it was a very different place than he remembered.
Bill’s memories of Montazza were from the time when Nasser was still in power and it was still being maintained in its former glory. Now the gardens are sparse and obviously not cared for. I suppose they run the sprinklers to keep the grass growing. A different class of people also seemed to be in charge. Going to Montazza was a special occasion back then. You dressed up and you behaved appropriately. Now casually dressed people are spread out across the ill-kept grounds and they think nothing of getting up from their McDonald’s picnic and leaving the trash where it lies.
Still, we walked throughout the grounds and took these pictures. There is a thin veneer of the former glory, but close inspection shows that everything is about to fall apart. This is was a very sad visit. Afterwards we took a taxi back to the hotel, but here’s some images so you can imagine along with us how beautiful it once was.
Remember when we’d gone back to Delices for ice cream the night before. Well, while he was there, Bill bought some baklava. I thought he’d eat if after the ice cream, but he didn’t. I thought he’d eat it for breakfast, but he didn’t. He waited until we got back from our museum adventures and had it as an afternoon snack. Yep, that’s him on our balcony taking a selfie.
After snack time came nap time. After some research we finally found out where The Fish Market was and planned to head that way.
One Arabic word I know is mizergana. I’m not sure of the spelling, but I know how to use it. The evening we went to The Fish Market was mizergana. Things were just broken and off. Not anybody’s fault necessarily, but the finely-tuned engine that is our marriage wasn’t doing so well. The plan had been to grab a taxi to the restaurant, but instead we walked. I dressed for the taxi, so I wasn’t thrilled.
The Fish Market wasn’t quite what we expected. Yes there were big ice tables full of fresh fish, but from the description of the place we thought that once you picked your fish, then they’d give you a wide variety of ways to cook it. Basically you either got fried or grilled. It was good, but not our vision.
Something else I didn’t expect was a mizergana tummy. About halfway through the meal I began a series of restroom visitations. I don’t know if it was the brisk walk to the restaurant, too much strange food or just par for the course. Whatever it was, for the next hour or so I stayed in close proximity to a toilet.
Our visit to Alex was almost over. I’d used Bill’s nap time to get us packed up for the road. Come back next week and learn which attractions we saw before leaving town.
Our second day in Alex began with the usual buffet breakfast and a quick cab ride to the Alexandria National Museum. (No adventures this time!)
If you somehow landed in Alex and hadn’t yet figured out that Egypt is a country with very ancient roots, you should visit this museum. It’s not as extensive as the famed Cairo Museum, but it is arranged in such a way that you can get a quick overview of Egypt’s history organized by deities. If you’re just somebody like me that geeks out on history, well then you have even more reasons to spend and hour or so here.
Down in the basement is the Pharaonic section when Egyptians worshiped a pantheon of gods led by Ra, the sun god, and Isis, goddess of marriage, fertility, motherhood, magic, medicine and probably a few other things. The main floor is devoted to the Greek and Roman eras of Egypt, when the Egyptian gods mixed and mingled with other religious traditions. Many of the artifacts have, in fact, been fished out of the sea right there in Alexandria. Our favorite floor was the top floor. There Christianity faced off against Islam in a sort of duel by artifacts.
Like many things in Egypt, if you visit this museum you’ll be on a constant seesaw. One moment you are wowed out of your socks by an item you can’t even believe still exists. Then you won’t be able to see into the next case at all, because the light has burned out. It’s exhilarating, frustrating and totally unique. Gorgeous white marble edifices with spectacular polished black granite floors and dust collecting in the corners. It made me want to shake someone!
At this museum you can take all the pictures you want outside, but you are supposed to pay to take pictures inside. Bill didn’t think he wanted to part with the coin, but once he got inside he couldn’t help taking a few pictures of the beautiful Christian artifacts. They didn’t say anything right away, but when he left, they hit him up for the photography fee. Since we had to pay to take them, I’ll share them with you.
This trip to Egypt was so marvelous from so many standpoints I would be hard-pressed to pick out my favorite thing. However, I can easily tell you the Royal Jewelry Museum is a strong contender for the position. In fact, it is on my short list of favorite museums ever!
We took a taxi from the history museum to this gem of a palace. (Forgive me the pun, I couldn’t resist.) It was immediately apparent this was something completely different from the previous museum. Both buildings were magnificent, but the history museum was past its prime and showing its age. It didn’t look like anyone loved it anymore. The edifice holding the jewelry museum is pristine. It’s well-loved and it shows.
The jewelry museum is in a lovely part of the city, obviously still home to the well-to-do. An impressive rod iron fence guards the one-time palace. The security procedure into the grounds is more than cursory, but it was very polite. This is the museum-less-visited, competing with the well-known Bibliotheca and the official history museum, but I would like to see that change. This is a rare and wonderful experience and if you go to Alexandria you should not miss it! They were glad to have such obvious American tourists entering their facility. So glad in fact they gifted me with a beautiful souvenir guidebook.
If this museum did not hold a single piece of jewelry, I would still say it is one of the best attractions I had ever visited. The palace is just awesome – and I use the word in the traditional sense, not in the way it’s used to describe a hamburger. I walked from room to room wishing I could live there or at least I would have had the opportunity to visit when Fatma Heidar herself called it home. She was a several-times-great granddaughter of Mohammed Ali Pasha the Great. I think she and I could have been great friends.
But there was jewelry, magnificent jewelry, in attractive cases spread throughout the elegant rooms. The house looked as if they had only removed the furniture the day before. It was easy to imagine dignitaries in gorgeous caftans and morning suits wandering around. Among the treasures in the cases were items which once belonged to King Farouk I and his wife, the lovely Queen Farida. Here’s a shot of my very favorite piece stolen from the gifted souvenir guidebook. We saw it, but couldn’t get a good shot.
After a morning and early afternoon of touring, we were hungry. Come back next week and find out what we did about it.
After our five mile stroll from the Four Seasons to The Cecil, Mr. Bill was ready to get to our room and take a nap. He suggested we forego whatever surprise I had in store, but I urged him to hang with me just a few minutes more.
Delighting Alex since 1922
Our balcony at The Cecil gave us a jaw dropping view of the Mediterranean Sea, but it also overlooked a lovely little park that filled the block next to the hotel. In one of my visits to the balcony I’d spied people sitting along the sidewalk on the south side of the park, chatting over coffee and pastries. Delices didn’t mean anything to me, but since they’d been around since 1922, I thought they must be doing something right.
With the front door to the hotel just steps away, I led Bill to my discovery and was he ever happy. The pastry store fronts two different streets and inside is case after case after case of amazing looking pastries. Bill’s desire for his nap disappeared completely as he wandered from case to case trying to decide which treat he would indulge in. After narrowing it down to a few favorites, Bill gave me the final choice for something to share. I chose the the chocolate treat above, of course.
We took our treasure back to the hotel to enjoy and then Bill promptly went down for a nap. I don’t do naps very well, so I used the time the way I usually did – updating my travel journal, catching up on social media (when there is wi-fi), doing a few crossword puzzles and reading.
It had been a long day for Mr. Bill. Museums always tire him and the Bibliotheca Alexandrine had been a humdinger. We’d had our stressful moments with the rogue hantoor driver and that wild taxi ride. Then we’d walked five miles. Quite a day! Even though I don’t usually manage to take a nap, this time I eventually dozed off to sleep.
Late Night Stroll
When we woke up, we both wanted a little something to eat, but not a full meal. Bill wanted ice cream and I reminded him Delices had ice cream. We were out of that room in a flash!
I had on a snakeskin printed lounging set I’d gotten from my Aunt Edie. It’s perfectly acceptable for wearing out in public, even though that’s not something I usually do. I’ll wear it down to breakfast or perhaps put it on when I know we’re going to spend most of the day in the car on a long drive, but it’s not my go-to outfit for a stroll around a big city like Alexandria – especially when a peek outside tells me there are more people out and about than there had been during the day. I suggested I change clothes, but Bill insisted that all we were going to do was pop over to the pastry store. I slid into a pair of canvas espadrilles and threw a windbreaker over my outfit.
Yes, we went right over to Delices. Both of us got some ice cream. Even though that’s not my usual snack, an ice cream cone sounded fun for our late night adventure. However, we did not immediately head back to the room.
Bill led me off down a side street full of action. All the stores were open and the sidewalks were lined with pop-up vendors. You could buy anything from toilet paper to an engagement ring along the street. Crowds of natives wove between the stalls and the stores, laughing, talking and occasionally making a purchase.
I’d had a moment’s hesitation when Bill veered into the side street. It was late. I wasn’t dressed right. I didn’t know if it was safe. I could have made all kinds of excuses to scurry back to the hotel, but I’m glad we didn’t. We got a look at the real Alex without any tourists (besides ourselves) in sight.
Water is a constant challenge in Egypt. There’s the need to stay hydrated in the desert sun and heat, but you can’t drink anything out of the tap. To meet this challenge every other store sells bottled water and on every block there’s a rickety wooden stand staffed by a burka-ed grandmother. We opted for the grandmother every time that we could. On our way back to the hotel we visited the grandmother we’d chosen to be our vendor in Alex. We also bought a Coke Zero from her so we could enjoy a little of my nephew’s bourbon.
A sweet ending to an exciting day. I’ll leave you with one final photo. More museums are in store for next week. Come back and visit me then.
The smallest things trip you up when traveling – like landing at the Library of Alexandria mid-day. If there were vending machines in the Library we didn’t find them. There was no coffee bar. We found a sorry excuse for a gift shop, but all they had were tacky souvenirs. We were about ready to eat a few books.
Where’s the Fish Market?
Instead of just finding the closest place to eat, Bill decided our next stop should be The Fish Market, a restaurant recommended to us by several people as the best food in Alexandria. So Bill started a campaign to find this marvelous place. There was one small problem. No one knew what he was talking about.
One of the first people he asked directed us to go back towards Fort Qaitby, where we’d visited earlier in the day. He was all ready to head that way when I pulled out my phone and showed him the directions he’d gotten would take us, not to a restaurant called The Fish Market, but to an actual open air fresh fish market in the old part of the city.
So, he tried another tack. The people he was talking to were confused by his inquiry. Most thought he wanted to buy fish and directed him to various grocers in the area. Finally, he found someone who would listen long enough for him to explain that he wanted a restaurant where you were able to pick out your fresh fish for cooking and then have it served to you at the table. Bingo! Someone knew exactly what he was talking about. They said they didn’t know if the name was right, but there was such a restaurant in a mall that’s connected to the Four Seasons Hotel.
Bill was beaming. He decided we’d grab a cab and head to the other end of the Corniche where the elegant Four Seasons Hotel was the anchor of a popular mall.
Terror in a Taxi
Bill hailed a cab and negotiated the fare. We headed off with the beach just over our left shoulder. We anticipated a short ride along on the main drag.
Suddenly, there was a big traffic jam due to some construction. Our driver left the main drag and headed off away from the beach. I’ve already told you how scary it was when we got off the major thoroughfares in the hantoor. I really wasn’t paying all that much attention to our taxi driver or his vehicle until he started taking short cuts through parking lots.
Remember those terrorist I was worried I’d run into in Dahab? Well, suddenly I was afraid they’d found me in Alex. I realized the noise on the radio was actually some sort of political rant. Of course, I couldn’t understand what was being said, but the tone is the same all over the world.
Then I took a look at our driver. He had the same beard and crazy look every terrorist on the television seemed to have. Hanging from the rear view mirror were a selection of Islamic prayer beads. Please understand. I don’t think every Muslim is a terrorist, but I was beginning to think the one driving our car was. There were a number of decals on the windows and none of them looked like they were devoted to a prophet of peace.
We had no idea where we were. He’d made so many turns since leaving the Corniche I couldn’t even guess where the beach might be. I started to think about the fact that this was our first day in Alex and it would be a few days before anyone expected to hear from us again. What could happen to us before anyone even realized we were missing?
When I was young, my favorite Bible verse was, “What time I am afraid, I will put my trust in Thee,” a verse from Psalms. The rational person I walk around as most of the time was pretty sure everything would turn out OK, but that person who thought Dahab was the end of my line was quickly taking over. I had forgotten about the verse on the way to Dahab, but suddenly, it was on my mind. I began to repeat it silently. Rational me thought everything would be OK. Irrational me wasn’t taking any chances.
Before too long, my friend the terrorist was back in familiar territory. His detour had taken him around the construction and he was about to turn right onto the Corniche. Part of me felt a little silly, but I was reminded how fragile life can be. All of us are one careless decision away from tragedy. Keeping that in mind makes each moment sweeter.
Soon we were getting out of the taxi and heading towards the mall. Would The Fish Market Restaurant be inside?
After all the difficulties Bill had faced trying to get out of town, our actual departure was fairly smooth. We left within 15 minutes of our targeted ETD. We miscalculated where the HOV lane would dump us, but even going out of our way in downtown Dallas, the traffic was so bad on I-30 we made time with our mistake. About 11, we exited at a rest stop to use the facilities and change drivers. By 2, we were at the cruise terminal, but so were a whole lot of other people.
Not Exactly a Tourist Destination
I want you to know that Galveston is a wonderful place to visit, but you wouldn’t know that from a picture of their port. It is an industrial port with a couple of cruise ships thrown in for good measure. What can I say? It’s ugly!
We dropped our bag off at the terminal and made our way to the parking lot. (Yes, that was a singular bag! I got everything in one suitcase!) We’d saved $5 by booking online (Thank you, Sherry!) We needed to be on board by 3:30 and I hadn’t been worried when we got to the terminal, but the parking lot made me nervous. I don’t even think a hurricane would have lit a fire under these people, but we did make the deadline.
Going Through Security
I understand the need for security measures, but I hate it. You’re passing around important documentation and taking valuable items out of your carry-on, not to mention dressing and undressing. When I’m flying, I try to dress around the metal detectors, but to tell you the truth, I didn’t even think about going through a metal detector to get on board the cruise. Maybe that’s why I had on a metal belt and shoes with metal decorations on them. I took off the offending accessories and tried again. That time my sunglasses set it off.
I went through all the rigmarole of getting dressed again and headed for check-in. Suddenly, I needed my glasses and I couldn’t find them. This would cause a panic in any situation, but if you read my blog last week, then you know why the disappearance of my glasses made me absolutely frantic. I ran through the terminal back to the place where I re-dressed. I made the people at the metal detector and x-ray machine prove my sunglasses weren’t there. I felt tears brimming in my eyes.
I ran back to the pile I’d left next to Bill and started rifling through my backpack again. Bill wasn’t happy. At the moment he was more interested in checking in, but if I had lost my new prescription sunglasses, he was going to be even more unhappy. Sitting in the floor, dumping everything out of the backpack I did find the glasses, but by then I was already suffering heart palpitations. It would take me awhile to get back to normal and before that could happen, I would misplace another pair of glasses.
My life is pretty busy. Last year, before I went to Egypt, I really meant to get my eyes checked and update my lenses. My sunglasses were so scratched up I could barely see out of them, but one thing led to another and I ended up with my beat up sunglasses on vacation. That turned into a blessing, because I lost the sunglasses going through security in Sharm el Sheikh, but that was only the beginning of the saga.
Juggling My Glasses
While the part of me that is reasonable and practical was sad to lose my sunglasses, there was also a part that did a little happy dance. The loss was unfortunate, because the frames were fairly new. I’d worn my previous pair of prescription sunglasses for a long time with complete satisfaction. I bought them in 2006 and just kept replacing the lenses, until I realized I had actually worn off all the decoration.
In 2015 I had my eyes checked and there was a new development. Glasses and sunglasses weren’t enough. I also needed computer glasses. So, my regular glasses, a pair of wire frames I’d been dissatisfied with for a long time became my computer glasses and I bought new frames for my regular glasses and my sunglasses.
My new regular frames were great. They were red Calvin Kleins and I felt snazzy in them. The sunglasses were a fail. They looked marvelous, but they just wouldn’t stay on. The arms weren’t curved enough behind my ears, so they fell off all the time. Hence the many scratches. They’d bounced off every surface from the bottom of a dumpster to pavement. So losing them gave me the opportunity to buy some new frames that would actually stay on my face.
Time to Upgrade
I really shopped around for sunglasses, because I have very sun-sensitive eyes. I probably wear my sunglasses more than I wear the other two. I wanted to find a pair I would love as much as I did the ones I’d purchased in 2006. Then I found out Brighton sunglasses are prescription ready. They are my favorite sunglasses in the world, but I hadn’t been able to wear them since 2006, when I had to start wearing prescription sunglasses.
Let me tell you something, optometry shops want you to buy frames. They must mark them up about a 1000%. All this second pair free stuff is a dead give away. I didn’t realize how serious they were about this until I tried to get my new prescription filled at Costco. Even though they charge you hundreds for your lenses, its the frames they care about.
The clerk did everything she could to discourage me from using my old frames. I had to sign a waiver releasing Costco from responsibility should the frames break and even then she couldn’t guarantee that wherever it was they sent them would fill the prescription. I’d just have to do without my glasses for 10 days.
To add insult to injury, they wouldn’t fill my sunglasses prescription at all. The frames had stones in them. Puh-leez! Tough luck for me. I walked in with three pairs of glasses to update, but only left behind one pair, because they wouldn’t do my sunglasses and having to wait 10 days while they sent them off meant I’d have to use my computer glasses for every day. I wanted to just tell them no thanks, but Costco was the vendor my husband had approved and I was trying to cooperate.
Then I went to find someone who would fill a prescription in a pair of glasses with stones in them. I don’t want to talk about how much it cost. I am still traumatized!
The Agony Continues
Eventually I had new lenses in all my glasses and for a short while I was a happy camper, but it didn’t last long. My beloved red Calvin Kleins fell apart. I’d just spent a fortune getting all those prescriptions filled and I loved my red glasses, so first I went back to the people at NorthPark, where I’d bought the glasses originally, hoping they could repair them. Too bad, so sad – they sent me to a jewelry repair place. The jewelry repair place referred me on to a place in Richardson where they repaired glasses. I don’t want to talk about how much it cost, but I was desperate.
I felt the same way when the darned things broke again. So I went back to NorthPark place one more time, hoping that by some sort of magic I could special order a replacement pair – something I hadn’t asked about when I’d gone in hoping they could repair the glasses. Finally, the glasses elves smiled on me. I couldn’t get the red glasses, but they still had the same frames in black! Yes, I had to pay for them, but they did give me a discount after I wailed to high heaven about their “second pair free” promotion. It just seemed wrong that I’d been through such a painful series of glasses related issues and now they were going to charge me full price to replace the frames I’d originally bought from them. As I wailed, I never admitted how glad I was that I was not going to have to start from scratch and get new lenses also.
What Now ?
So, I went on for several months more, juggling three pairs of glasses and wishing for the days when I could see without them. I make do with the computer glasses around the house and keep the other glasses in my purse for use when I am away from home, but it still seems like I am continually looking for one pair or the other.
One day in December I was out running errands when I realized I had my computer glasses on my head. I walked back to the car and put them there so I wouldn’t lose them – but of course, I did. Back at home, after I’d changed my clothes I realized my glasses weren’t in the dish in my bathroom where I usually keep them. So I went back to the car, but they weren’t there. So I checked the pocket of the jacket I’d worn, but they weren’t there. I scoured the entire downstairs over and over, thinking I might have set them down somewhere along the way without realizing it. I checked my purse, the pocket of my jeans, anywhere I could think of that had even the remotest possibility of hiding the glasses. In the days to come, I would tear up the whole house and go back to every location I visited while running errands. The glasses had disappeared off the face of the earth.
Weeks later, for some forgotten reason, I wanted the old blow-dryer I used to use, which I keep shoved in a hidden corner of my closet. Bill uses it sometimes to help build a fire on the grill, but that wasn’t the reason I went digging for it this particular time. Whatever the reason, I found my computer glasses on the closet floor. Of course, they were shoved so far back that I had missed them the other 3000 times I’d looked for them.
You may wonder why I’ve taken so much time to tell you of all my recent woes with my glasses, but I had to tell you or the next chapter in my travel tale would not have made any sense. Come back next week and I’ll tell you about our embarkation on Royal Caribbean’s Vision of the Seas.
TRAVEL THERE: MORE EXHIBITS THAN YOU CAN SHAKE A STICK AT
When we finally found the museums at the Library of Alexandria, we were stunned by everything there was to see. Come along with us.
Confession: I know little to nothing about Arab Art. I like what I see, but I can’t name any favorite artist or tell you the life story of any of them. In sixteen and a half years of formal schooling in the US and a degree in Humanities, that’s a pretty sad situation. The Dallas Museum of Art’s Keir Collection is beginning to open a few doors for me on this subject, but I really do understand the blind spot in my knowledge.
This means that I had no idea of what I was looking at down in the guts of Alexandria’s famous library, but I can tell you it was beautiful. In gallery after gallery I found plenty to enjoy.
There were sculptures and works on paper. There were paintings, from the very modern to the very old, with a great representation of what is known as folk art, but some of it didn’t look very folksy to me. It looked spectacular.
There was a whole gallery devoted to astronomy and scientific instruments, but they were so pretty you couldn’t believe they’d been designed for practical use. I stood before their cases in awe of the men and perhaps women who had crafted the gorgeous items.
Perhaps my favorite section was the many examples of every day items which transcended the idea of crafts, like the lovely caftans and pottery in the picture above. I moved from case to case wondering about the craftsmen who had envisioned these lovely pieces and envying those who had worn them, poured water from them or carried them from place to place.
There are several different galleries with a variety of Arabic names I wouldn’t even try to spell or pronounce, but I didn’t worry about the divisions. You can’t make up for lifetime of neglected information in a few hours. I promised myself I’d learn more about these talented artists and artisians, but on that day, I just resolved to enjoy what I was seeing.
The Sadat Museum
My ultimate destination in the Library was the Sadat museum. This is the area with a personal touch to my favorite Egyptian, my husband. Bill’s Uncle Raouf had been a translator for Nassar, president while Bill was growing up, but Sadat had been actively involved in Nassar’s administration. All of the personal items included in the exhibits of the Sadat Museum were familiar to Bill.
Bill was already hungry when we got to the Library. He’d endured the hour of wandering around lost among the stacks. Then he patiently stood by while I gawked at all the beautiful items in the art galleries. The exhibits in the Sadat Museum were so interesting to him, that hunger stood still.
He lingered at each case, pointing out items similar to those in his own home. He read headlines to me. He’d say, “We had a radio just like that.” The suits Sadat wore were the same style Bill’s dad and uncles wore. The newspapers documenting important events in Sadat’s life were the same newspapers Bill’s family shared around the breakfast table. He looked for familiar faces in the photos.
I’d had a hard time finding the museums of the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, but when we finally walked among these treasures, it was well worth the effort. It would have been worth the effort if there had been no Sadat Museum, but because there was, I had a special peek into my husband’s history. It’s something he doesn’t talk about very often, and I loved every moment of it.
If Bill was hungry when we got to the museum, imagine how hungry he was after all the time we spent there. I collected my belongings from the area where they’d been collected and checked. Now it was time to eat. Join us next week as my hungry husband looks for the fish market. In the meantime enjoy these few photos from the museums. Unfortunately, no photos were allowed in the Sadat Museum, but there are other lovely things to see.
It was Thursday. Our boat would leave on Monday afternoon. I had everything I would wear gathered into one section of the closet, ready to pack. Bill would wait until the last minute, as always. I was having lunch with my Bible study girls when I got a text from Bill. One of his uncles had died. This was sad news, but since they lived in Canada, no way we’d be attending the funeral. When I got home and he was in a blue mood, I thought the death was the cause. I didn’t know the sky was falling.
A Workplace Hiccup Shakes Up Our Cruise
It would take more than a blog post to explain what Bill does, but suffice it to say he’s in the market. He trades using a series of programs he has developed. His plan was to turn his programs over to his broker to make the trades while he was gone. This was a humongous project. There’s always a little housekeeping you need to do when you turn your work over to someone else and Bill had to put safeguards in place, so that his proprietary information would stay proprietary. So, in the weeks before the cruise he logged a lot of hours in on his computer to get everything ready. We were celebrating his birthday, after all.
Then it came time to shift his programs over to the broker and they ran into a glitch. It would take another entire blog post to explain it, so just believe me – it wasn’t good. They might have overcome the issue with more time to work on it, but there wasn’t any time. Like most glitches, there had been no way to anticipate it, so Bill was just stuck with having to monitor his systems himself during the cruise. He wouldn’t be involved in all the research and coding that goes into a normal day of work, but he wouldn’t be free of it either.
Bill spends his day with an array of pc’s and extra large monitors to do what he needs to do. He’d spent a couple of weeks getting some of it ready to turn over to his broker, who had his own set of pc’s and extra large monitors. Since that wasn’t going to happen, Bill now had to figure out how to get all that computer power into his laptop. The balance of time before the cruise was barely enough time to accomplish this.
Then the Market Blew Up
Friday morning the market blew up, as in fell apart and started dropping like a brick. Since the first of the year we’d been doing pretty well and that was why Bill had been ready to turn everything over to someone else and really enjoy the cruise. Now all of his plans were going to hell in a hand basket. We weren’t going to have to sell the house or anything, but it really wasn’t the kind of thing a trader wants to have happen before they leave town.
Even when it’s being good to you, the market is stressful. Trying to keep up with it on vacation with the market going down and no bottom in sight is bad enough. Throw his technical challenges into the mix and we couldn’t have picked a worse time to go if we’d tried. We had a standing joke that every time we try to leave it’s the worst time we could do, but he didn’t find it funny when I brought it up.
He kept all of this to himself until some time on Saturday. I just thought he was reeling from the market dive and his uncle’s death. When I knew enough to really appreciate what he was going through, I was surprised he didn’t just call off the cruise – but we hadn’t gotten travel insurance and I don’t know if our issues would have qualified for a refund, even if we had gotten the insurance.
So come back next Monday and we’ll head to Galveston and try to have some fun.