Architecture, ART, Attractions, Gardens, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

On the Mission Trail

Mission Concepcion, Mission Trail, San Antonio,TX
Mission Concepcion

TRAVEL THERE: SAN ANTONIO’S MISSION TRAIL

Mission Concepcion

Deb and I both had been on San Antonio’s Mission Trail before, so our visit was just a refresher course. We started at Mission Concepcion and arrived during a break between services.

Very modern families shared the latest news on the mission lawn.  White-frocked priests chatted with parishioners.  A large black dog wove among pants legs and teased children, earning a pat or two along the way.  Some version of this scene has played out, right there, for several centuries.  I found it heart-warming.

Espada Mission

We stayed a few minutes and then passed by San Jose Mission, because we would be returning shortly for Mariachi Mass.  With only 45 minutes to spare, we chose to see Espada over San Juan.  Deb couldn’t remember which was which, but I knew Espada was my favorite.

Mission Espada, Mission Trail, San Antonio, TX
Mission Espada

When we pulled into the parking lot Deb knew I had chosen correctly.  It’s her favorite mission too, even though she couldn’t remember the name.  She recalled it from a previous visit, long ago when her boys were young.  We sauntered among ruins and enjoyed the rustic feel of the old church.

Big News for the Mission Trail

As we chatted with each other about the lovely place a gentleman overheard our appreciative comments and shared some news.  Mission Espada has been chosen as a World Heritage site.  Since the official announcement didn’t come out until July 5th, finding this out in early June was a big deal.

On the surface this sounds like a good thing, but I really don’t know whether I want UNESCO messing with my favorite mission or not.  All five missions are included in the designation, but Espada has been singled out as the site of the interpretive center.

Deb and I both feel a very spiritual connection to this particular mission, because it seems to be the least modernized.  We feel as if there is still a link to the men who originally suffered and sacrificed to bring the Good News to the New World.  We know that not every priest who came to the Americas had the best interest of the natives as their goal, but something about Espada makes us believe the men who came there did.

What we really don’t want is a bunch of people in costume making like they’re historical figures and signs all over the place explaining how abusive us Europeans were to the natives.  Sure there were abuses, but we’re afraid new abuses are about to be perpetrated on the beautiful Espada Mission.  It is a church first and it should stay that way.

After hearing the news we entered the chapel and spent some time in prayer.  It was a holy moment for us, touching both our hearts.  We hope we can have that experience the next time we visit Espada.

Time for San Jose

Mission San Jose, Mission Trail, San Antonio,TX
Mission San Jose

A peek at our watches told us we had lingered too long.  We made a mad dash back to San Jose.  Of course, we parked in the boonies and raced around wildly trying to find the worship center.  A woman took us in hand and found us a seat.

The Mariachi Mass

I have bad news.  The Mariachi Mass isn’t what it used to be.  The last time I was at San Jose, parishioners were excited about the renovation about to occur.  I’m afraid they did to San Jose exactly what I don’t want them to do to Espada.  They improved it above and beyond my recognition.

Not The Way It Used to Be

I have memories of a small dark sanctuary filled with the exhilarating music of mariachis laced with the intoxicating smell of incense.  The new sanctuary is big, bold, bright and completely out of touch with my memories.

Back in the old days, the mariachis wore incredible costumes sparkling with silver conchos.  The new uniforms have stamped metal conchos, but only the color is silver, not the metal.  The old mariachis wore the complete costume.  Sombereos atop their heads, heavily embroidered suits with silver conchos and heavy black leather boots.  The new mariachis wear white shirts with mariachi bowties, but it’s not the same.  Someone once told me the same family had performed as a part of the mass for many generations.  I don’t think any of them are still there.  One of the violins was so off key that I actually thought I was going to have to leave.  It was like nails scraping a chalkboard.

Here’s how bad it was.  One of the choir members recognized us as strangers and apologized to us.  That’s pretty sad.

It was time for us to head towards Dallas, but one more adventure awaits.  Come back next week for lunch at Gruene’s Gristmill.  In the meantime, enjoy the Mission Trail photos below.

DESTINATIONS, Restaurants & Bars, Road Trips, Shopping, TRAVEL, United States

A Little More Strolling in San Antonio

Mi Tierra, San Antonio, TX
In the Mi Tierra Bar

TRAVEL THERE: MORE SAN ANTONIO STROLLING

On this trip we’d already hit some of my favorite culinary spots in San Antonio: The Guenther House in the King William District, Casa Rio and Boudro’s on the Riverwalk and NAO street tacos at The Pearl Farmer’s Market. We’d also tried and fallen in love with a new place, The Chart House at Tower of the Americas.  Now it was time for brunch at Mi Tierra.

Mi Tierra

I’ve always known about Mi Tierra, but until I went with Bill back in 2013 I’d never managed to get anyone to go with me.  It was everything I’d hoped it would be and more, so it immediately moved to my list of favorites – and since it’s open 24 hours I should always be able to find a way to squeeze it in.

Brunch

Sunday morning Deb and I packed up our belongings, checked out of Hotel Contessa and toted our belongings to the car, but we decided to walk to Market Square.  It seemed as if every time we left the Contessa we either headed north or east.  We’d been neglecting the west, something we were ready to correct.

Market Square is one of the oldest parts of town and during its long history it’s always been an area of mercantile.  The actual old El Mercado isn’t what it used to be.  It probably deserves the “tourist trap” slam many folks have given it on sites like Trip Advisor, but don’t throw the baby out with the bathwater – especially if that baby is Mi Tierra.

My previous visit to Mi Tierra had been during a freak winter storm that blitzed out about half of what I wanted to do.  We made a mid-week visit for lunch and then headed over to the McNay.  The crowd was primarily business people grabbing a quick lunch and a few of us tourists who had braved the cold.  There had been no wait for a table.

Things were a little more lively on this Sunday morning.  The bakery counter was busy and you had to wait for a table.  Deb and I settled in the bar and watched for our buzzer to go off.  Remarkably we only had a few minutes of cooling our heels, so I think they opened up the patio.

Once seated, we made selections from the breakfast menu and sat back to enjoy the show.  Mariachis entertained us on the patio and just outside vendors were setting up booths from which to sell their trinkets.  The food was delivered fresh and delicious.  It was a little early for a margarita, but I couldn’t help wishing I had one.

Back to the Car

When we headed back to the car I spotted that one of my favorite shops was open.  I never can remember the name of it, but you can’t miss it.  It’s right next door to Mi Tierra.  They have clothing and jewelry on the first and second floor and wonderful ceramics in the basement.  Maybe next time I’ll actually write down the name.  I’d love to be able to afford some of their beautiful embroidered dresses on the second floor, but I’m not paying three figures for a sundress.

Main Plaza, San Antonio, TX
Main Plaza

Along the way back to the car, we enjoyed the beautiful Main Plaza, but we agreed that the western part of downtown couldn’t compare with the eastern side.  It won’t be my last trip to Market Square or Mi Tierra, but I won’t walk next time. I’ll either grab the trolley or hop in my car.

Next we’ll head out on the Mission Trail, so come back next week.  You’ll love it.

 

DESTINATIONS, Restaurants & Bars, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

Budro’s Texas Bistro on the Riverwalk

From http://www.boudros.com/
From http://www.boudros.com/

TRAVEL THERE: BUDRO’S ON THE RIVERWALK

In spite of all the strolling we’d done so far in San Antonio, there is something about the Riverwalk which inspires ambulatory activity. After happy hour margaritas at The Cork Bar, Deb and I made another circuit of the Riverwalk to shop for a dining spot.

Bodacious Budro’s

We settled on a riverside umbrella at Budro’s Texas Bistro.  Confession: I’d been hoping this was where we’d land.  My mouth still had fond memories of my previous visit and I knew Deb would love it.  We started with wine and worked our way around the menu.

The whole experience was perfect. I was determined to eat al fresco, but there was only one table left on the patio and another couple was discussing it with the hostess when we arrived.  They stepped aside to consider their options, so I stepped right up and took the table.  The couple ended up with inside seating, which I hope is what they preferred.

Our waiter seemed delighted we joined him for dinner.  He rattled off the specials.  Deb chose a seafood something and I went further down the menu to the meat.  We were having so much we could have been eating hamburgers and it would not have mattered.  We people-watched, nibbled at our dinners and polished off a bottle of great wine.  Does it get any better than that?

The Evening Winds Down

When the meal was over we were, too.  We’d been non-stop for three days and for most of that we’d been hoofing it.  We discussed options our options, all of which sounded like entirely too much effort.  We chose a movie in our room, but I needed a Diet Dr. Pepper.  I always need a Diet Dr. Pepper, but this was an acute case, so we went on the hunt for a convenience or drug store.  We found a CVS and I’m pretty sure something chocolate followed me back to the hotel.

Back at the room we put on our jammies and vegged out in front of the TV.  I have no recollection of what we might have watched.  Seems like it might have been an Ancient Aliens marathon or something equally paranormal, but then again maybe not.  Lord knows we’ve watched enough episodes of Ancient Aliens that we feel like Giorgio Tsoukalos is one of our buddies, but if he really were he’d have better hair.  I promise.

Have I mentioned how much we loved our room at the Hotel Contessa?  Yes, of course I did.  I just didn’t want you to forget.  It was perfect for a couple of worn out girls.  Each of us had our own sofa and a large round coffee table to prop our feet on.  At bed time we each crawled into our own queen size bed and dreamed sweet dreams.

What’s Next?

Our final day was approaching. We had to be out of the room by eleven, but we’d be up and out before that, because we wanted brunch at Mi Tierra, the Mariachi Mass at 12:30 and if there was time a little bit of the Mission Trail.  Come back next week and see if we squeezed it all in.

 

DESTINATIONS, Restaurants & Bars, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

Cork Bar at The Hotel Contessa

Cork Bar, Hotel Contessa, San Antonio TX
From thehotelcontess.com

TRAVEL THERE: HOTEL CONTESSA’S CORK BAR

Where were you when American Pharaoh won the 2015 Triple Crown?  Deb and I were in Hotel Contessa’s Cork Bar.

Post-Siesta Margaritas

We’d taken a small siesta, gotten all gussied up and were ready for happy hour.  The Cork Bar, on the River level of Hotel Contessa, was a lively place.  Last minute guests were arriving for a wedding on the Las Ramblas patio and bridesmaids were being lined up for their entrance.  Televisions near the bar were tuned to a horse race.  Deb and I ordered up a pair of margaritas, then settled in to enjoy the activity.

Vicarious Wedding Guests Watch Acrobatic Nap Demo

The wedding was our first focus.  San Antonio is a big military town, so we weren’t surprised that most of the men in the wedding party wore uniforms – and impressive uniforms they were.  We didn’t know the groom, of course, but he had to be a tough guy just to carry around all those medals on his chest.  The bride was lovely, but being unable to hear through the glass wall of the bar, we soon brought our attention into our immediate surroundings.

We chatted about how much we loved the hotel, how great the service was – especially the doormen and commented on the decor.  About that time a woman came down and tried out a large upholstered bench close to us.  She was in town with her adult son and joked about the luxury of not having to take him to the potty as she had when he was young.  After several attempts at sitting on the bench in different positions she decided the appropriate one for enjoying that particular piece of furniture was to lay down, but she didn’t want her son to catch her.  So her little nap was only a couple of minutes long.

The Triple Crown

The wedding continued, but we recognized quite a buzz around the bar.  Someone had turned up the sound on the TV.  We were almost irritated until we figured out it was the Belmont Stakes and American Pharoah was poised to win The Triple Crown.  The last time anyone had done that was back in the 1970’s.

As the pre-race coverage gave us the background stories leading up to the Belmont Stakes, Deb and I reminisced about our own horse racing experiences.  Chief among mine were George and Ruth, my very Baptist parents who followed the Triple Crown religiously every year, “betting” on who would win.  Soon the newly married bride and groom, led their guests to a mezzanine nearby, but we noticed several guests lagged behind.  It was almost race time.

American Pharaoh was a clear favorite, but the commentators hedged their bets by pointing out potential spoilers.  American Pharaoh would have none of that.  When the gate opened she was out and away.  No one even got close.  It was a thrilling outcome.  When the race was over, the wedding guests made their way up to the mezzanine and the others in the crowd wandered away.  Dinner time was upon us.

Deb and I had not decided on a specific spot.  I had my eye on The Fig Tree, The Little Rhein Steakhouse or Boudro’s Texas Bistro, but I was open to other options.  Where did we end up?  Come back next week and find out!

 

ART, Attractions, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

San Antonio’s Japanese Tea Garden

Japanese Tea Garden, Brackenridge Park, San Antonio TX
Japanese Tea Garden, San Antonio TX

TRAVEL THERE: JAPANESE TEA GARDEN IN SANANTONIO

Thanks to the VIA trolleys Deb and I were visiting San Antonio attractions we would’ve never reached by walking and we weren’t having to hassle with driving and parking.  That’s the way to enjoy sightseeing.

The day was drawing to a close, but we had energy enough for one more attraction. We walked out of the San Antonio Botanical Garden just as the VIA trolley pulled up to the curb and rode over to the Japanese Tea Garden.

Brackenridge Park

Both the Botanical Garden and the Japanese Tea Garden are part of a larger complex of attractions called Brackenridge Park.  Included in the Brackenridge Park Conservancy is a zoo, a golf course, the Witte Museum and other recreational activities.  Brakenridge Park is an important part of what makes San Antonio such a wonderful place to visit.

The Witte is undergoing a major overhaul right now, but on a previous trip, Bill and I had thoroughly enjoyed the museum with its South Texas Heritage Center.  My last trip to the zoo was decades ago, long before I was blogging.  Though small in comparison to some zoos, like San Diego for instance, it was quite charming.  What sets it apart from other zoos, in my mind, are the beautiful animal sculptures sprinkled throughout the exhibits.

Visiting the Japanese Tea Garden

As I planned this trip with my bestie, I hoped we’d have time for the Japanese Tea Garden.  I kept telling myself that surely somewhere along the way I had been there, but I could never recall a specific occasion.  So, I looked forward to refreshing my memory.  The VIA trolley rolled up to the entrance, I took the obligatory picture and then my bestie and I climbed the hill to the garden.

Pavilion, Japanese Tea Garden, Brackenridge Park, San Antonio TX
The Pavilion

Once we reached the top and walked over to a pavilion where other tourists were madly snapping pictures, I realized I had never actually been there, because if I would have been, I would never have forgotten the view!

San Antonio’s  Japanese Tea Garden was re-claimed from a quarry and the results are dramatic.  From the pavilion you look down into a verdant landscape with two large pools.  Then your eyes travel to the far side of the garden which features a cascading waterfall.

Garden Needs TLC

Since I’m always honest with you, I have to tell you, this is not a pristine garden like, Portland’s or Fort Worth’s Japanese Gardens, but the landscape is so unique it is still well worth a visit.  As I was writing this series of articles and pulling up sites for linking, I noticed the Brackenridge Park Conservancy urging San Antonio’s citizens to come to a meeting about a new Master Plan.  After seeing the condition of the Botanical Garden and the Tea Garden, I have to say they need a Master Plan.

A wedding ceremony was underway beneath the falls when we arrived so access was limited, but we made our way down the hill to the pools.  One pool has perfectly clear water (well mostly clear water) and the other is clogged with some sort of algae or plant.  Hopefully the new Master Plan will include clearing the murky pond.

When the wedding concluded and we were allowed back under the waterfall.  The site, which had been so impressive from the pavilion, lost some of its charm up close.  Like the Botanical Garden, the Tea Garden suffers from lack of maintenance.  No one has loved either of these gardens well enough in quite a while.  Enjoying gardens the way I do, it was sad to see what once must have been a stunning garden struggle to stay alive.

Back to the Trolley

We made a circuit of the garden, stopped in the tea shop for refreshments and headed towards the trolley stop.  Truth be told, we were pooped.  With the exception of a few quick trolley trips we’d been walking all day.  Deb wears a Fitbit and when she told me how many tens of thousands of steps we’d made, I was suddenly even more exhausted.

The trolley finally showed up and we dragged our tired bodies into our seats, but the day wasn’t over.  After a short respite in our wonderful suite we were rejuvenated and recharged – just in time for happy hour and dinner.  Come back next week and I’ll tell you about that!

ART, Attractions, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

San Antonio Botanical Garden

San Antoio Botanical Garden, Brackenridge Park, San Antonio TX
San Antonio Botanical Garden

TRAVEL THERE: SAN ANTONIO BOTANICAL GARDEN (SABG)

OK, I admit it. The Dallas Arboretum has me spoiled.  That and all the amazing gardens I’ve visited throughout the US and the world.  Still this was not my first visit to the SABG, so my expectations were not completely unrealistic.  The gardens still managed to underwhelm me.

A Previous Visit

My last visit was back in 2001.  I was living in California at the time and came back to Texas to take my parents on a little road trip.  We had a blast and the SABG was one of the highlights  I remember the Conservatory Gardens were closed at the time due to some kind of maintenance, but I also remember loving the gardens.  Mom was a real garden aficionado and she liked it, too.

The Garden Today

The last fourteen years have not been good for the gardens.  Gertie’s Garden, the entry area, was sharp looking and well-tended.  The Wisteria Arbor was charming.  But as we ventured out into other areas, it just looked like the garden had not been loved.  Things needed paint; chains were rusty; gardens had weeds and dead flowers – it was disappointing.

The first disappointment was a little Japanese Garden tucked away in a corner.  I love Japanese Gardens.  One of the things I like is that the good ones always look as if the gardener just finished trimming.  Everything looks perfectly manicured.  This garden looked as if they’d let the plants go for a while and then tried to trim them back.  Things just didn’t fit well.

We went on to the Conservatory, where it looked like half of everything had died and they really needed a good window cleaner to come in and go after the glass panels.  Then we headed to The Overlook where the lack of maintenance was even more evident.  We blew off the nature trails because we figured if the rest of the garden looked overgrown, then the nature trails would really be wild.

I think the real problem might be M-O-N-E-Y.  It takes a lot of it to keep a garden of that scale going, (just ask DABS).  So, here’s what I want you to do.  I want you to go visit the SABG and send them donations.  I remember this place as being beautiful.  They’re going to have to tear out a lot of overgrown plants and do a lot of replanting to save the charm of the place.  They also need to work on the panes of the conservatory.

This wasn’t our last garden of the day and the next one was a pleasant surprise.  Come back next week and I’ll tell you about the Japanese Tea Garden at Brackenridge Park.  In the meantime, in spite of some negligence, it was a garden and there were still some pretty things to see at the SABG.  Here’s some shots I took.

 

 

 

 

 

 

ART, Attractions, DESTINATIONS, Museums, Presidential, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

Jamie Wyeth at the San Antonio Museum of Art

From MFA.org the site of the Museum of Fine Art in Boston
From MFA.org the site of the Museum of Fine Art in Boston

TRAVEL THERE: WYETH NOT VISIT THE SAMA?

Sorry for the pun but I couldn’t resist! From The Pearl we crossed the Riverwalk’s Museum Reach and entered the San Antonio Museum of Art in its Lone Star Brewery digs. This is a museum I love, but so far in this multi-year journey I haven’t told you much about it, in spite of the fact that I have visited.

My Love Affair with the SAMA

I first visited many years ago when it was in a warehouse downtown.  I’ll confess I loved their installations in the old space.  They had less room, so they were very creative with their displays.  The old antiquities exhibit was one of my all time favorites.  The entire ancient world was represented in one room.  Many different pieces were suspended in the air  inside one large area. I would always lose count of time as I considered each piece and compared to the others nearby.  There was less to see, but I liked that I could take it all in during a fairly short visit – if I didn’t spend hours in the antiquities section.

Their new digs are so spacious that I have yet to make it through the modern art section.  I always start with the antiquities and European Art and before I get to the modern stuff I’ve worn myself out.  This, of course, is not the SAMA’s fault.  I feel a little guilty about always opting for the classics, but not guilty enough to do anything about it.

My Recent Visit

Tip of the hat to my Dallas Museum of Art (DMA) membership which got us free admission.  The guy manning the entry booth at the river didn’t know anything about the VIA trolleys, so they first thing we did was trot over to the “official” information booth.  They said the trolley had just been by, so we had almost an hour before they would be back again.  We discussed our options and chose the Jamie Wyeth exhibit.

When you say Wyeth to me, I immediately think of the patriarch of the Wyeth artists, N.C.,  an illustrator whose colorful plates graced classic tales like Treasure Island and Robinson Caruso, but he spawned a litter of artists, all of whom have created beautiful works.  The DMA once had a Wyeth retrospect exhibit featuring masterworks from the father and his talented offspring.  I knew Jamie for a famous portrait of JFK – not the official one, but this one.

I’ll have to say that much of Jamie’s art is a little odd and introspective for me.  Bloody seagulls are just not my thing.  I am, however, glad we had the chance to take in the exhibit before the trolley showed up.  I have, after all, been looking at the museum’s own collection for a long time.  Unfortunately, if Deb wants to see it, we’re going to have to go back another time (and you know how much we’d hate that!).

If you want to see Jamie’s work, you’ll need to go to Bentonville, AR and see it at the Crystal  Bridges Museum of American Art.  But Crystal Bridges is the last stop on the tour, so get there by October 10th.

Hopping the VIA

Back at the SAMA, not wanting to miss VIA’s once hourly trolley, we arrived at the stop early and enjoyed the break. When the trolley showed up, we climbed on and wanted to pay for a $4 all day ticket, but neither of us had singles and they don’t give change.  So our $4 tickets were $5 each.  Inconvenient, so don’t make our mistake.  However, we were ready for a lift.

Next stop in the San Antonio Stroll?  The San Antonio Botanical Gardens.  Come back next week and I’ll give you a tour.

DESTINATIONS, Restaurants & Bars, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

The Riverwalk’s Museum Reach

NAO tacos at The Pearl Farmer's Market
Our Riverwalk destination: NAO tacos at The Pearl

TRAVEL THERE: ON THE MUSEUM REACH OF THE RIVERWALK

So, on a bright Saturday morning, we strolled from the Hotel Contessa to the point where the Riverwalk connects with Museum Reach. We took a flight of stairs to the River level and made a right.

Morning on the Museum Reach

To our surprise, we pretty much had the Museum Reach all to ourselves.  We saw a few bicyclists and joggers, but in a tourism city like San Antonio we were amazed more travelers weren’t enjoying the river. (Maybe the others went to the VIA Informatiaon Office and were on trolleys.)  Forget tourists, why aren’t the residents flocking to this lovely pedestrian thoroughfare.

It was cooler down by the river.  An occasional River Taxi offered to take us further, but we were minding our pennies.  By walking we were able to enjoy the lock and dam.  We saw the VFW post I’d read about, but I guess it was a little early for their libations.  Gardens graced each side of the river and there were a number of interesting art installations, including some sort of grotto.

Lunch at The Pearl Farmer’s Market

It wasn’t a hard walk, but we were certainly happy to arrive at The Pearl when we did.  There’s a big hotel under construction right by the Riverwalk, so we had to do some maneuvering to get past, but I’m sure it will be great when the hotel is finished.

First, stop was the NAO taco stand.  NAO, the Culinary Institute of America restaurant, is one of my very favorites in San Antonio, but it’s not open for lunch.  However, they do serve tacos from a stand at the Farmer’s Market.  My research indicated that we had plenty of time to get our tacos, but we were hungry, so we headed on over there.  We didn’t find it right off, but we should have known, it was the booth with the big, long line.

We grabbed a bit of the sidewalk and shuffled along with the slow moving line.  You might assume that tacos from a food booth would be fast food, but there was nothing fast about the service.   They were making some sort of beverage by hand and the aroma of cooking meat was amazing.  The folks in line were both patient and congenial.  We wished for some shade, but were otherwise happy to be there.

Then someone announced there were only a few orders of left.  Five to be exact.  There were more than five people in line ahead of us, so I was terrified we were going to miss this treat.  Thankfully, in one group ahead, only one person wanted tacos.  Everyone else was there for the beverage.  Then the pair immediately ahead of us got an order of tacos to share and some beverages.  WE WERE IN!  We ordered our tacos and white sangria, paid the rather hefty price and were given a ticket for our tacos.  We approached the grill and traded small pieces of paper for heaven.

We found a table on the plaza, but were still wishing for shade.  There was a sort of arbor, but the vines they are trying to grow on it haven’t made much headway. (Note to self: bring parasol next time.)  Then we bit into our tacos and sipped our sangria.  All other thoughts disappeared.  It was suddenly well worth the trek to have the delicious treats.  There were only one or two orders left when we picked up our tacos, so we were grateful to the Riverwalk gods for getting us there in time.

There was a Farmers Market going on and I had planned on checking it out, but our stroll along the Museum Reach had used up our shopping time.  We decided to head back to the San Antonio Museum of Art, which was right across the river and catch a trolley there.  We still didn’t know when it would arrive, but we had all of the SAMA to enjoy while we waited.

Don’t Miss Dessert!

Lick, San Antonio, TX
Go ahead and take a Lick

On the way back to the river we did make one detour – Lick!  This little shop offers what they call “honest ice cream”.  Everything is organic, vegan, non-GMO, etc. and some of it is even gluten-free.  They use honey instead of sugar.  I’m not that big of a fan of ice cream (which is a good thing or I’d have more weight challenges than I do), but they did have chocolate, which I love.  Deb on the other hand adores ice cream and she assured me this was equal to if not better on the ice cream scale as the NAO tacos were on the taco scale.  I’m sure you can trust her opinion.

Next up?  The SAMA!  Will we or won’t we connect with the trolley?  Come back next week and find out!

ART, Attractions, DESTINATIONS, Museums, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

Strolling San Antonio TX

Briscoe Western Art Museum, San Antonio TX
This Briscoe Western Art Museum is housed in a wonderful old library building.

TRAVEL THERE: SAN ANTONIO STROLLING

Little did I know when I tagged this trip as the San Antonio Stroll how apt the title would be. I was thinking of wandering along the river from Margarita to Margarita, not hoofing it from downtown to The Pearl.  Well, that was before the VIA streetcars let me down.

Go Mobile Without Your Car

One of my favorite things about San Antonio is that you can forget about driving for a day or two, because they’ve got a great transit system.  I don’t know what the locals think of it, but the VIA Streetcars are great for tourists.  However there’s a pitfall.  I’ve been using the VIA Streetcars for decades and that was the pitfall.  I assumed I knew how things operated.

They have a route going around and around downtown – called the Red Circulator.  It comes by every ten minutes or so.  I have ridden that one to get an overall view of the area, but it used to cover more ground and there were several other trolley lines that hooked up with it.  There’s still something called the Primo – but that’s a bus.  I’m a tourist, so I want a trolley.  There’s Blue Circulator which looked like it could get me to the other places I wanted to go, but I was a little fuzzy on the time thing.

I pored over the new trolley schedule online, but couldn’t find a schedule that said, “Here are the times the Blue Circulator comes by its stops.”  Note to self:  Next time stop by the VIA Info Center and ask them!  It’s right on the Red Circulator route and it was steps away from my hotel.  Instead I decided to play it by ear.  Good thing I bought some comfortable walking shoes for the trip!

So, on day three of the San Antonio Stroll, we’d already strolled quite a bit.  Day one, shopping at the Round Rock Outlet Mall and walking from the RiverCenter to the Tower of the Americas and back.  Day Two, walking the McNay, the King William Walking Tour and the self-directed Riverwalk Margarita Tour.  With day three being primarily museums and gardens, I thought a little foot relief would be just the thing.

Briscoe Western Art Museum, San Antonio TX
The Briscoe

Breakfast and The Briscoe

We grabbed breakfast at Whataburger and discovered there was an egg shortage.  Not something I’d heard about anywhere else, but some poor fast-food clerk was having to apologize to everyone about it, so I didn’t think she needed my two cents worth also.  Therefore we ate some chicken biscuit thing with honey-butter.  Not just was the doctor ordered, but sustenance enough until the next meal.  As long as I had my Diet Dr. Pepper, I was good.

On to the Briscoe Western Art Museum.  I’ve already done a good job of describing the museum here, so no need to do that again – but it was one of those days.

First the eggs, then the museum entrance fee.  Last time, I breezed in with my Dallas Museum of Art (DMA) Reciprocal Privileges. The DMA website said I still had them, but the Briscoe had changed its affiliation.  To give the Briscoe its due, it did eventually comp my entry, but we had to pay for Deb’s ticket.  Not that it was exorbitant, it was the principle of the thing.  I’m not sure who to blame, but I’m not happy.

I enjoyed the museum the second time around, but what I liked best was that Deb discovered she likes Western Art.  As I’ve said, Deb will pretty much go wherever I want to, but sometimes she’s just going along to be along and that was the case with the Briscoe.  Inside she enjoyed the historical perspective of the third floor, but she was blown away by the art on the second floor.  Western art has a new fan.

Via the VIA?

After a quick stroll through the gift shop, where we’d have bought several things if money were no object, we headed to the trolley stop.  Well nothing was posted, because everything is on your phone – right?  Unless you don’t have the latest phone and you can’t get to the right page and even if you could you couldn’t see it in the bright sunlight. (mumbling complaints under my breath).  We stood there a few moments pretending a trolley was coming any minute, because I was convinced they came by every ten minutes.  Then a passerby dissuaded us from this illusion.

So we tried our handy-dandy doorman, because the bus stop was in front of the hotel.  He knew the trolley came by and where, but not when.  We went to the concierge and she was having the trouble I had, sans the sunlight.  There’s no webpage that says when the trolley comes by the Briscoe Museum stop.  (Are you listening VIA?)

Or You Can Walk

We decided to hoof it.  Both of us love to walk.  The heat was not oppressive, so we set off.  The walk was a little over a mile and a half, which took time, but not much effort.

We did connect with the trolley later in the day which allowed us to get much further than we would have gotten on our own four feet, but it wasn’t easy.  With no available schedules, we had to find someone who knew the drill to get on the trolley at a stop near The Pearl.  Then we’d quiz the bus driver when we got off about when the next trolley would be by.  The cost was cheap – but the hassle was high.  And speaking of hassle – a day ticket is $4, but you won’t get any change, so have some singles.

Yes, I could have avoided all this hassle (one hopes) by checking with the VIA Information Center, but we all know about hindsight – and I was reminded of the pitfalls of assuming you know what to expect in the future based on past performance.  In other words, “Don’t never assume nothing!!”

That’s right, don’t assume anything, but come back next week and we’ll have street tacos at The Pearl.

 

ART, Attractions, DESTINATIONS, Performing Arts, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

Fiesta Noche del Rio in San Antonio

Fiesta Noche del Rio, Arnesdon River Theater Riverwalk, San Antonio TX
The Master and Mistress of Ceremonies for Fiesta Noche del Rio in San Antonio

TRAVEL THERE: FABULOUS FIESTA NOCHE DEL RIO

Ya wanna have a good time in San Antonio? Then you hafta go to the Fiesta Noche del Rio. What began as a fundraiser for the local Kiwanas almost six decades ago is now one of the most entertaining evenings you can enjoy in San Antonio.

Our New Favorite Thing on the Riverwalk

We bought our tickets along the Riverwalk the day of the show and then did a little Margarita tasting, I mean sightseeing, before going back and snagging a seat in the Arneson River Theater.

The warm up act was an amazing flamenco guitarist with an acoustical twelve string.  He sat on a chair, pulled the guitar into his lap and plucked out beautiful music while providing a stomping percussion with his feet.  Absolutely fascinating and very stirring.

Fiesta Noche del Rio, Arneson River Theater, Riverwalk, San Antonio TX
Deb recruited for a little audience participation. If they knew what kind of voice she had, they would have had her singing into the microphone instead of just holding it.

Soon the Master and Mistress of Ceremonies came out to lead us through the evening.  Both had marvelous voices and a serious dose of fun to share with the audience.  They not only led you through the performance, they initiated audience participation and entertained your socks off.  When it came to audience participation, you’d have to talk to my bestie and traveling companion, Deb.  They participated with her several times.

Musica and Danza

The dance numbers were amazing.  How those performers keep from passing out during their routines I have no idea.  The weather was actually quite pleasant for those of us merely sitting idle in the amphitheater.  For the fast moving, fully-costumed dancers under the lights, it was a whole ‘nother thing.  I want to tell you that in spite of the heat, every step was precise and vigorous and their smiles never faded by even a degree.

Fiesta Noche del Rio, Arneson River Theater, Riverwalk, San Antonio TX
Beautiful Mariachi music performed by gorgeously costumed musicians was my favorite part.

If you are wondering what kind of music they danced to, then let me ask you this…what kind of music do you like?  If you like rap, then you would have been out of luck, but pretty much everything else was there, from the classical flamenco guitar to jazz to country to…well you name it.

My very favorite was the Mariachi.  It sounds like happy music to me – even when they sing sad songs.  The haunting horns seem to reach down to someplace in my soul.  My heritage is as about as Anglophile as you can get, but one of those guys from the Spanish Armada must have something to do with my DNA.

Fiesta Noche del Rio, Arneson Theater, Riverwalk, San Antonio TX
Swirling Skirts

Of course, when the Mariachi’s come out to play, then you also get to see the dancers whirl around in the flowing skirts of their traditional costumes.  If I actually tried their thrilling spins, I’d end up on the floor with the skirt wrapped around my head, but as they twirl, I can imagine myself twirling with them and it is glorious.

I could go on with my rapturous description of the evening, but pictures really are worth thousands of words, so enjoy some of the others I took.

After the Fiesta

We strolled down to Durty Nellie’s after the show for a little of their more raucous entertainment, but my dreams were full of throbbing flamenco music and swirling skirts.  This was the best money I spent on my vacation, yet it was also one of the smallest ticket prices I’ve ever payed for live entertainment.  Do not miss it.  It’s really worth going down there just for the show!

Saturday was our museum marathon – and it was a marathon in more ways than one.  Come back next week and find out why.