TRAVEL THERE: SAN ANTONIO’S MAJESTIC THEATER EARNS ITS NAME WITH A GLORIOUS NUTCRACKER
Here’s how I know Bill was bending over backwards to accommodate my wishes on our trip to San Antonio; he agreed to go to a ballet at the Majestic Theater. He played it really cool until afterwards, but then he made a post to Facebook that revealed the truth. He hadn’t been looking forward to it at all, but enjoyed it anyway.
Off to a Rough Start
We needed a bite to eat before the show, so we went to The County Line, a BBQ joint on the River, because it was close to our hotel and we were in a hurry. In our opinion, a BBQ joint is supposed to let you get a BBQ sandwich, but that only happens at lunch at The County Line. For dinner it’s a meat and two veggies kind of a place. Bill ordered a sliced brisket plate and I nibbled around the edges, but my mind was not on the brisket. WHERE WERE THE LUMINARIES?
Remember, I came to San Antonio because I wanted to see the River all dressed up for Christmas. Well, the weatherman threatened icy rain and sleet, so no luminaries were installed. The primary thing I came for didn’t happen at all.
And it was cold! And a stupid sign outside our hotel sent us an entire block out of our way. And did I mention it was cold. Bill was smart. He ignored the occasion and dressed warmly. By golly, I’d brought a special outfit for the theater and I was going to wear it, even if it killed me. Well, it didn’t kill me, but there was a danger of frostbite.
Majestic Lobby Warms up the Night
As soon as we hit the lobby, I knew we were someplace special. I had no idea of how gorgeous the theater itself was going to be, but the lobby was a knock-out.
We were on time. Our seats were good. And this had to be the most amazing theater I’d ever walked into. The pictures don’t begin to do it justice, but they’re all I have. Bill was wishing for more than his smartphone to capture the theater’s interior.
San Antonio’s Nutcracker
The Nutcracker was marvelous. I hope San Antonio will forgive me for being a bit of a Dallas snob. I assumed that a ballet by the San Antonio ballet and symphony might not stack up. It was charming with great dancers and great music. The sets and costumes were out of this world – but not quite as far out of this world as the theater. I’ll leave you with a few more shots. Hope you enjoy.
New Museum in San Antonio is Worth the Visit, in the Hot or the Cold
I’ve chosen to call this vacation The South Texas Christmas Ramble, but I could also call it The Great Weather Betrayal. It was chilly as we wandered around The Pearl on our first night, but the next morning, as we stepped outside our hotel, La Mansion De Rio, to walk to The Briscoe, the wind was brutal and “chilly” doesn’t begin to describe the temperature. “Frigid” is closer, but still might be a few degrees warmer than we felt.
So, of course, this is the day I’d chosen for an on-foot tour of the Riverwalk. While planning the day’s activities, I’d mapped out a pleasant route along the River, but the wind chill factor demanded we take the most direct route possible and according to my map, that was street-side.
An Interesting Side-Step
On the corner next to our hotel, was St. Mary’s Cathedral. Bill suggested we pop in and see it, but I’m not sure whether he was really interested or he just wanted to get out of the cold. Whatever the case, I’m glad we did, because it was lovely. If you’re ever anywhere in the neighborhood it is worth the stop.
As we headed back into the cold, Bill asked how far we were walking and I answered, “Three or four blocks.” I wasn’t sure, because the map wasn’t clear about it. We went three or four blocks, then turned left and had a couple more blocks. We arrived almost frostbitten.
Inside The Briscoe Museum of Western Art
This museum was on my list of non-negotiables. I’m pretty flexible when it comes to some things, but there are always a few items on each vacation that cannot be missed. This time, it was The Briscoe, a brand-spanking new museum that just opened at the end of October 2013. It’s gotten rave reviews, so I was excited.
After getting tagged with the buffalo sticker above, we were directed to the top floor and work our way back down. Stepping off the elevator we walked into the nearest gallery, which was full of religious icons from the Spanish Colonial Era. The next gallery displayed some of the most beautiful saddles and spurs I’ve ever seen. Then we wandered into a gallery of military memorabilia.
By then, Mr. Bill was ready for a little break, so we sat down in the saddle and spur gallery where headphones were provided for listening to a little Western music. I specifically remember some Woody Guthrie and Kris Kristofferson. It was an excellent way to catch your breath. Also on the third floor are scenes from the early days of Texas, recreated with artifacts and careful reconstructions of the period.
I really enjoyed the third floor, especially the saddles and spurs, but my favorite was the second floor, because that’s where the art-pedal hit the museum-medal. There was a wide variety of genres, mediums and artists, but they were all related to the west. I was particularly moved by the Native American art, beautiful representations of the West’s first inhabitants.
Downstairs is one of the famous Wells Fargo Wagons, the stagecoach that tamed the West, as well as representations of more modern Western Art. From the first floor, you can look down on a teepee gracing the floor below, but you can’t go down there.
The gift shop was lovely, but I noticed it seemed to be directed at the younger generation. Or maybe it was directed at an older generation, grandma and grandpa, but one things for sure, Santa could have loaded his sleigh right there.
It was time to get back in the cold. If you go to San Antonio, don’t you dare miss The Briscoe. Be sure to come back here next week and we’ll go to lunch on the Riverwalk.
San Antonio Hotel with Historic Significance offers Modern Indulgence on the Riverwalk
I love swanky hotels, but usually I opt for bargains, in order to travel more frequently. Still, there are opulent hotels on my wish list and every once and a while, I get the chance to check them off. That’s what happened on this trip to San Antonio.
Thank you, Expedia
As I planned a trip to see the Riverwalk’s Christmastime luminaries, just for grins, I checked La Mansion‘s pricing on expedia. As if Santa were filling my order a little early, there was a deal I couldn’t resist. I rocketed up the stairs to beg Bill’s indulgence, but he was in a good mood, so he told me to book the deal before I even had the chance to kneel.
I’d wished for La Mansion long before it was part of the Omni chain. Unless I’m completely off, I think it used to be part of the Rosewood chain that has THE Mansion, here in Dallas. Whatever the case, I’d wander around the Riverwalk wishing that hotel was my vacation address. This time it would be.
Parking There Was Not Half the Fun
After a visit to the Witte Museum we drove to La Mansion with little to no trouble (thank you GPS), but upon arrival found a $35 hickey for valet parking. That strained our spartan ways. The staff told us we could park across the street cheaper, but that begged the whole luggage thing and the lot across the street charged for in-and-out. So we bit the bullet, ponied up for the parking and even tipped a bellhop. I think the tip may have actually caused Bill physical pain.
Luxuriating in the Splendor
Once our pocketbook quit bleeding, a look around our room excited us. La Mansion occupies a building which was a university, a long long time ago. Wood beams hold up the ceiling and rod iron balconies are just outside the French doors. Since the hotel is an Omni, the furniture, upholstery and drapes are lush. As we inspected our accommodations and tried on the luxurious robes provided, we decided we weren’t as upset about the price of parking as we thought we were going to be.
Bill whipped open his laptop to check the market and I started to unpack. Next to the TV was a lovely bottle of water and I thought, “What a nice gesture,” but thankfully I checked the hang-tag before opening it. Six bucks! So, I opened the dresser and yes, there it was the minibar and snacks. So many ways to capture extra income! At least there was free shampoo. (They didn’t have a safe in the room, though and I thought that was an oversight.)
I’m poking a little fun at the Omni, but we actually enjoyed our stay there completely. The historical building gave everything a very special touch and we did get top notch service. The bed was beyond comfortable and if the only thing we could see out of our window was the parking lot across the street, that was our fault for not choosing to pay extra for a room with a view.
The True Parking Solution
We also figured out the parking problem. See, overnight valet parking is $35, but they don’t charge you for each in and out. The overnight parking across the street is $10, and I assumed it was $10 every time – and that could get expensive quick. But across the street you aren’t charged the overnight price every time, only when you stay overnight. You can short term park much cheaper. Since short term valet parking at the Omni is only $15, that evening we recovered our car and went to dinner. When we came back, we parked across the street. The good news is the Omni never charged us the $15. Thank you Omni!
I’d Do It Again
The next morning we had breakfast in the hotel’s Las Canarias Restaurant, but I’ve already talked too much for today. The Omni La Mansion De Rio is a lovely hotel and I’m so glad we stayed there. Since the Polar Express hit while we were there, it was a little cold to traipse across the river for the privilege of working out at the Omni spa property, but we did peek in and decided it would be great if the weather was friendlier.
Do I think you should stay at Omni’s La Mansion de Rio? I have to say yes. It was a remarkable experience. The proximity to everything on the Riverwalk and the downtown area was perfect for sightseeing. We were blown away by the service. Just keep your eyes open. Who knows when expedia will have another deal! (And keep coming back, because I’ll eventually tell you about breakfast!)
Nothing says South Texas Christmas like an Antler Tree.
TRAVEL THERE: THE WITTE MUSEUM IN SAN ANTONIO
The South Texas Heritage Center sets the Witte apart from any run-of-the-mill science and natural history museum.
Our first stop in San Antonio was The Witte Museum. I’d never visited it before, even though I’ve been to San Antonio many times. Most of my other trips have been overnight, two days as the most, and I prefer art museums over all others, especially one like The Witte, which used to be billed as a science and natural history museum. I’m not into stuffed animals and models of the solar system.
A New Description Captures My Attention
The Witte no longer calls itself a science and natural history museum. Now they are “San Antonio’s premiere museum of South Texas history, culture, and natural science.” That sounds a whole lot more like something I want to see. They’ve also just finished a “South Texas Heritage Center”with a special exhibitions called “Porfirio Salinas: Capturing South Texas on Canvas.” That certainly peaked my interest.
Bill, bless his heart, goes to these places because I want to, but I thought he might enjoy a special exhibition called CSI. However, it was 3PM when we arrived, only two hours before closing, so the CSI exhibit was immediately deleted – especially since it required a separate entrance fee. Just ahead of us a bus tour was arranging itself in the first gallery, so we detoured into another one. OOOPS, stuffed animals! So I checked the map and exited out a side door.
The South Texas Cultural Center
Once we stepped outside the main building, the South Texas Cultural Center was right in front of us. Inside, it being December and all, we found an unusual holiday tree just outside the Salinas exhibit. Come to find out, Salinas was a painter of bluebonnets a la William A. Slaughter. Every bit as good and with his own style, but his primary subject was bluebonnets, just like the more famous Slaughter. The exhibition was housed in a small gallery, but Bill had a hard time getting me out of there.
The rest of the first floor was devoted to the Old Time Trail Drivers Association. There were wonderful old photos, gorgeous saddles, interesting equipment and lots of logbooks and journals, but time was a-wasting and we still had a lot to see.
Patriotism and Pageantry: Fiesta Honors the Military
Upstairs was a mock-up of a South Texas town with a lot of artifacts strewn among the scenery. We strolled along and picked up quite a bit of history, but didn’t linger overlong. Next on my list was the Betty Coates Textile Gallery, because that’s where the Fiesta dresses are.
Back Inside the Main Building
As far as I’m concerned, the textile gallery alone is well worth a visit to The Witte. One of my favorite things about the Tyler Rose Garden is the Rose Queen gowns museum. Well, the Betty Coates Textile Gallery is the Tyler museum in miniature, but instead of Rose Queen gowns, gowns from San Antonio’s Fiesta are displayed. Just like a Rose Queen, Fiesta Royalty chooses themes for their coronation finery and the gowns on display were devoted to patriotism. We got an eyeful of red-white-and-blue glitz and glamour there.
Magic Lanterns, a Special Exhibition
Around the corner we found a special exhibition, focusing on a form of photography most folks don’t even know about, Magic Lanterns. I happened to take both a photography course and a history of cinema course while I was completing my BA in performance arts, so Magic Lanterns were something I’d been versed in from several points of view. Magic Lanterns were fancy slide shows at the time photography was still in its infancy. It was the x-box of it’s day. I’m just guessing, but I’m betting this was Bill’s favorite part of the museum.
We whirled through the rest of the museum so quickly that I can’t give you a coherent report. Here’s the bottom line: The Witte is no longer a building full of dead animals. A lot more is happening. Put it on your itinerary next time you go to San Antonio. You’ll be glad you did.
So where are we headed next? La Mansion del Rio! Don’t miss it.
TRAVEL THERE: SOUTH TEXAS CHRISTMAS RAMBLE – WACO, AUSTIN, SAN ANTONIO & GALVESTON
Did you miss me last week? I missed being here, but not too much, because I was out having fun. For years I’ve wanted to visit San Antonio while the luminaries glowed on the Riverwalk. I finally headed that way and tacked Galveston’s Dickens on the Strand at the end of the trip. I didn’t know the North Pole would be traveling with us.
Rambling South
Having declared this a ramble, we did take it slow. Last Tuesday morning went like almost any morning at our house, except that my bags were packed and sitting next to the door. After my morning ride on the stationary bike, I made some breakfast and then headed for a bath. Meanwhile, my husband, the investor, checked on the market and made sure his trades were all properly lined up. About 10:30 we hit the road.
Waxahachie Drive Tour
First stop, Waxahachie. We were a few days early for the Gingerbread Tour of Homes, but thought we might take a sneak peek at some of the old Victorians all dressed up for Christmas. I’d found a copy of the tour map online and started putting Bill through his paces. He was very obedient, but by the fifth house we realized the effort wasn’t worth it. It’s the second time I’ve tried to do this and after this second fail we hightailed it back to I-35.
A Detour for the Love of Dr. Pepper
I had a wish list for Waco which included the Lee Lockwood Library, but they’re closed on Tuesdays, so we went to the Dr. Pepper Museum. This pilgrimage had been lurking for a while on my “to do” list, but the other times I’d tried to drop by failed for one reason or another.
I’m a Pepper. Are you a Pepper, too?
Now, if there ever was a Pepper, it’s me, so I was looking forward to the museum big time, but erase all thoughts of the CocaCola Museum in Atlanta out of your mind. Dr. Pepper doesn’t even come in a close second. Even a Pepper like me has to admit it. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go. Just pare down your expectations a bit.
The building housing the museum is where the beverage was originally served and then bottled. Since we were there on a mid-week afternoon in early December, we didn’t exactly have to fight any crowds. We paid our $8 per person (choke choke) admission and started poking around the place.
Long before Dr. Pepper was a soda fountain drink, Morrison’s Old Corner Drug Store was well known as the largest drug store in Texas. Cowpokes and railroad tracks converged in Waco creating a clientele for emporium’s soda fountain, but old Morrison, didn’t create Dr Pepper. One of his employees did. For a while, even though the drink was popular at the soda fountain, no one thought of bottling it. For one thing, soda fountains were all the rage and for another, bottling was an expensive process.
A la Madame Tussard’s, a wax replica of the man that did invent Dr Pepper greeted you in the original soda fountain area. He told you the history of Morrison’s Drug Store and that odd little beverage invented there. He also explained why the artisan wells in Waco made the bottling of Dr Pepper a possibility.
The reason I choked on the price of admission is because the majority of the museum is just a warehouse for Dr. Pepper ad media. Strolling through the first two floors is, for the most part, a review of the Dr Pepper marketing campaigns. Yes, there’s the original soda fountain and a room set up like the original bottling facility, but that’s pretty much all there is that has historical meaning for anyone except an ad executive. The third floor is devoted to Foots Clements. He’s a one time delivery truck driver who made his way through the ranks and then led the company for many years.
Remember this campaign? Have you ever actually drank it hot?
Several displays reminded me that 7Up is part of the Dr Pepper family, but what I found odd was that almost half of one floor was devoted to root beer. Root beer? I could never find the link between root beer and my favorite soda, but I did learn a few things about the whole frosty mug thing.
There’s a gift shop full of Dr Pepper t-shirts and commemorative bottles and then there’s a snack bar, where you can get a free sample of Dr Pepper products mixed the old soda fountain way. I’d have preferred a can. The sample didn’t taste quite right – but I bet when they started bottling Dr Pepper most people said they preferred what they were used to at the soda fountain.
The historical part of the museum
Should you go to the Dr Pepper Museum? Well, that depends. Are you a Pepper? If you’re a devoted drinker of the brand, then you will enjoy it. Are you a Baby Boomer? Then you’d probably enjoy the walk down the advertising memory lane. Are you majoring in marketing at one of our American universities or colleges. Then maybe you’d learn a few things. Otherwise, like my husband, you’d probably prefer to spend your time elsewhere.
Frequent visitors to my blog know I’m crazy for Neiman Marcus. It’s a touchstone for my beloved Dallas. I might be shopping in Atlanta’s NM, but I still feel right at home. I’m devoted to Neiman’s because it’s the only thing left from my childhood shopping experiences. Titche-Goettinger, Colbert-Volk and Sanger Harris all bit the dust.
My, How Things Have Changed
The transformation of the crisp turquoise-and-white-striped Titche-Goettinger bag into Dillard’s boring beige plastic thing was a disappointing retail slide for me. My mom went to work for Titches back in the 60’s. Along the way they merged with a San Antonio department store called Joske’s. I didn’t think Joske’s had near the eclat of Titche’s. For a few years, though they belonged to the same team, they each kept their own identity. Finally, the Joske’s name won out, but at least it was still a Texas name.
Then along came Dillard’s, an Arkansas company, and bought out Joske’s. I’d like to be able to say that I haven’t walked into the store since, but my mom retired with a 25% lifetime discount, so I’d be lying. However, I would be telling the truth if I told you I missed that department store with the turquoise-and-white-striped shopping bags.
For all those decades my mom worked at Titches/Joske’s/Dillard’s her main competition was Sanger-Harris, but it was a friendly competition. If we could buy it a mom’s store we would, but I had plenty of Sanger’s labels in my closet – especially stuff I’d bought at Red Apple days. The prices were so low you felt like they were paying you to carry merchandise home. Joske’s had EOM (end of month) markdowns that were often as drastic, but Red Apple Days just sounded like a lot more fun.
I had a grudging admiration for Sanger-Harris after Titche’s became Joske’s. I wouldn’t have mentioned it to mother, but I thought they were winning the retail war. Their stores seemed more upscale and their shopping bags were prettier. I especially liked the exterior of the stores. When you went to a mall Sanger’s always stood out, because they had gorgeous mosaic murals on the exterior. You didn’t have to be able to read to know you’d arrived.
Sadly, Sanger Harris eventually went the same route as Titches. First, they merged with a Houston retailer named Foley’s and ended up changing their name. Then Macy’s bought them out, and not too many years ago, at that. I remember visiting the Macy’s in Temple with my Aunt Edie shortly after the change-over. We agreed we liked Sanger Harris better.
DMA to Remember, Too
With all these pleasant Sanger-Harris memories it is no wonder that I’m excited about a new exhibit on it’s way to the Dallas Museum of Art. According to the latest issue of the museum’s member’s magazine, back in the 50’s a young VP of A. Harris & Company (which later merged with Sanger Brothers) commissioned an artist to create a series of paintings of Dallas. The paintings were exhibited at the DMA a couple of times in the fifties, but they haven’t been in Dallas since. Now they are coming back and will be presented with photos of my city taken at the time of the paintings.
Art, shopping and Dallas! That’s like three of my favorite things in the world! Why do you think I enjoyed the Jean Paul Gautier exhibit so much? Anyway, mark your calender for May 20th, because George Groz’s Impressions of Dallas is coming to the DMA. The name of the exhibit is “Flower of the Prairie” and you’ll be able to see it until August 19. And Macy’s, since you’ve gone to the trouble to sponsor this exhibition, all is forgiven. I’ll come spend some money there soon.
So you think Black Friday is a shopping experience? To me, it’s just a feeding frenzy. If Sam Walton has been successful at anything, it has been getting us to focus on price. I sort of liked the world better before Walmart.
The World Before Walmart
In those days price was certainly a factor, but it wasn’t the only factor. Designer names were guideposts, not a decoration plastered across the seat of a pair of sweat pants. Developing your own style was more important than being in style. In other words, going shopping was about more than consuming.
Wonderful, Wonderful Fortnight
A perfect example of this was Neiman Marcus Fortnight. During a two week period in the fall, Neiman’s would transform their Dallas stores into reasonable facsimiles of some exciting destination. The straw ornaments above are from Bavaria and were purchased in 1983 during the German Fortnight. D Magazine gives you the details of Fortnight, but I want to convey the experience.
For a middle-class kid living in Dallas in the Sixties, Fortnight was a window to the wider world. On a special evening, Mom would dress us up in the our best. The minute Dad got home from work he’d load us in the car and take us to Neiman’s flagship store in downtown Dallas – but it didn’t seem like a store at all. In fact, once I entered Neiman’s, I felt as if I’d stepped off a plane into a faraway place.
Granted, back in those days I’d never been on a plane, but I thought what was happening to me then must be just like arriving at a long awaited destination. See, Mom didn’t just dress us up and make us go shopping with her for the evening, she carefully primed us for the experience. All year we played a guessing game about what country Neiman’s might focus on for Fortnight. If the evening news mentioned a place we’d never heard of, we discussed why or why not it might be a good country for Neiman’s. As we studied our history and geography lessons, Mom would ask, “If this country were featured in a Neiman Marcus Fortnight, what products do you think would be stocked in the gourmet food department?”
In additon, Mother took us shopping at Neiman’s all year long, so we’d know the latest in fashion and appreciate quality. Then we’d go to Titche’s and buy our wardrobes with Mom’s employee discount. But a splashy ad in the Dallas Morning News Neiman’s would announce our Fortnight destination and I’d be giddy for weeks until our annual Fortnight visit was scheduled.
During Fortnight, we’d wander through the retail wonderland all agog. The ultimate treat was dinner at one of the NM cafes tricked out like the featured locale and serving their traditional fare. Along with many items from the featured country for sale, each floor of Neiman’s hosted special exhibits and demonstrations. We’d watch traditionally garbed dancers perform exotic dances. We’d see animals, artisans and actresses. Our family added very little to Neiman Marcus’s bottom line during this annual pilgrimage, but Fortnight was such a retail success, in spite of folks like us, that many stores attempted copy cat experiences. Yes, shopping was fun back in those days.
During the years I was busy going to school and living the disco scene, Neiman’s sort of fell off my radar. Then I became an official consumer with a credit rating. A Neiman Marcus charge card provided a plastic invitation to another world. Among the most important privileges offered was postal delivery of the famous Neiman Marcus Christmas Catalog with its legendary His and Hers gifts of opulence. Trust me, nothing on the internet can replace that catalog. The recipient of a gift, in the store’s traditional shiny red Christmas box with the gold Neiman Marcus logo, expected no additional wrapping paper and bows. Adulthood arrived when I received my own Neiman Marcus credit card.
I have to confess I did not inherit my parent’s frugality. I found it impossible to merely visit Fortnight and buy nothing but dinner. I went to the store as often as I could during those special two weeks to buy myself and others as many little treats as I thought I could get away with. Being at Fortnight was one of those particularly Dallas experiences, like visiting the Great State Fair of Texas or seeing the Christmas decorations on Beverly Drive.
Now Neiman Marcus has stores all over the world and they belong to some big corporation – not Mr. Nieman and Mr. Marcus. Most middle class kids in Dallas have flown somewhere before they reach their sixth birthday. Someone took Fortnight out of the Neiman Marcus budget, but I miss it.
I still have my Neiman Marcus credit card and it gets plenty of use. Neiman’s is my luxury store of choice. Having lunch at Neiman’s is one of my favorite indulgences. I will always love giving gifts wrapped in nothing but a Neiman’s logo. Nowadays I shop at Neiman’s and buy my wardrobe at the Allen Outlet Mall, because even though Mom retired with her discount intact, department store shopping isn’t as much fun as it used to be. Drat that Mr. Walton.
Update: This is by far the most popular post on my blog, so even though I have created Miscellaneous Jane for the purpose of offloading things from this blog, this post stays.
