TRAVEL THERE: KING WILLIAM HISTORICAL DISTRICT IN SAN ANTONIO TX
If it’s art, I love it. If it’s Decorative Arts, Architecture and History, well I’m there. That’s the reason we spent our first morning in San Antonio at the McNay. It’s also the reason our next stop was the King William District.
The Guenther House
To be exact, our next stop was The Guenther House, because I also like food. The Guenther House is one of the jewels in the crown of The King William District. The Guenther Family founded the Pioneer Flour Mills. Ever hear of Pioneer Biscuit Mix. Yep, that’s them.
The mill is still producing and you can sample their wares at the restaurant, right there at the home of their founder. The home also serves as a museum and has a great gift shop. Deb and I took a look at it all while we waited for a friend to arrive.
I met Clark in my SFA days and stay in touch on Facebook, but it’s always great to get a chance to chat in person. We were able to get a seat right there on that covered patio. Deb had a salad, I opted for the Champagne Chicken Enchiladas and Clark just kept us company.
Of the two dishes, I think Deb chose the better one. Not that mine was bad – it just wasn’t everything I’d dreamed of when I read, “Tender slices of chicken breast and Monterey Jack cheese wrapped in Pioneer’s White Wings flour tortillas. Baked in our special sauce made from San Antonio River Mill Champagne Chicken Gravy mix, garnished with jalapenos and cilantro.” The tortilla was a little tough and by the time the melted cheese made it out to the patio, so was it. The flavor was great, but I’m a real stickler for texture.
The Steve’s Homestead
The King Willam Walking Tour
Soon Clark had places to be and I had the map a walking tour of King Williams in my hand. Now I’ve been to the King William District numerous times, but I’ve never been to San Antonio with anyone else who is as patient with my passions as Deb is. Every time I’ve been to San Antonio I’ve told my traveling companions how great it would be to walk through the district and spend some time looking at each house. So far no one had taken me up on it. I’d been through it on a trolley tour, I’d gone on the Steves Homestead Tour and I’d driven through on the way to Guenther’s, but walking tour and San Antonio had not clicked with any of my potential walking tour companions.
Villa Finale
Of course, Deb thought it was a great idea and it turned out to be just that. We left Guenther’s and figured out where we were on the walking tour map. Then we did just what I’d wanted to do, strolled along and discussed all the beautiful homes with the Walking Tour Map & Guide as our reference. Along the way we did take in the Steve’s Homestead Tour – delightful, by the way. We were a few minutes late for Villa Finale, so we just enjoyed the grounds. As beautiful as these homes are they only scratch the surface. Each home in the five block area is a treasure.
So, yes, if you go to San Antonio you should do the walking tour. San Antonio is notoriously hot and humid, and we walked the whole thing in ninety something weather, but it was fine. In fact, the tree-shaded sidewalk made it very pleasant. On the way back to Guenther’s we dropped down to the River and enjoyed the serenity. This is one of my favorite memories of this trip.
But the Riverwalk was calling. We had reservations at Hotel Contessa and we wanted to see the Fiesta Noche del Rio at the Arneson River Theater. Come back next week and I’ll tell you all about it! In the meantime, enjoy these pictures from the King William Walking Tour.
In the Villa Finale Garden
The Joske House – important because my Mom worked for Joskie’s Department Store for years.
The view at Chart House atop the Tower of the Americas
TRAVEL THERE: SAN ANTONIO’S CHART HOUSE RESTAURANT
If there is one thing I hate, it’s a reviewer that can’t find anything good to say about any place they stay or eat. I wasn’t loving the place we stayed the first night in San Antonio, but I wasn’t going to let that color the rest of my experience.
Going with the Flow
I was the one who wanted to stay in a cheap hotel, but I had high hopes for the rest of the stay. One of the reasons I’d opted for the first night in a bargain was because I really didn’t expect to arrive in San Antonio until late that night, but travel is really all about dealing with change.
I’d expected sight-seeing in Austin, another town I love, but taking the tollway just got me to my favorite city a little faster. Having a meal in the Tower of the Americas had been on my list for a long time and the change in plans gave me the opportunity to do just that.
The Way It Was Before
Way back in the summer of 1968, on a family visit to the Hemisfair, we did not have dinner in the tower. If memory serves me right, I’m pretty sure we didn’t pay the price of ride up the elevator either. I think something like that would have stuck with me. I remember the wonder of walking through all of the amazing pavilions and adored the Institute of Texan Cultures, but all my memories of the tower are from the ground looking up.
In subsequent visits other things kept me from visiting the tower:
budget
bad reviews of the restaurant
not enough time
traveling companions who thought it was a tourist trap
I thought that the “not enough time” issue might come into play on this trip, too. I always have so many favorite things to return to in San Antonio that it’s hard to find time try new experiences. Arriving hours before I expected to, paved the way for an experience I’d wanted to have for a long time.
The Way It Was This Time
With a map, instructions from the hotel clerk and a GPS we set out for downtown San Antonio. Just as the clerk promised we found parking at RiverCenter Mall with no trouble. Somewhere inside my head is a map of the Riverwalk, but it always takes a little while for that map to sync with all the development around the popular attraction. We could see the tower and my mind told me where we should go, but we kept running into obstacles that my old mental map didn’t know about.
It didn’t help that the “You Are Here” map provided by the city next to the river did not have the promised red dot telling me where we were. Still it was only a minor irritation, because I followed my gut around the obstacles and soon recognized we were on the Hemisfair grounds – then all we had to do was look up.
The tower at night
If I was ever in San Antonio with time to kill, I think I’d kill some of it just enjoying Hemisfair Plaza. It’s a very pretty place, but I had my eye on the top of the tower. There was a booth selling elevator rides and the ticket salesmen pointed us to the other side of the tower for the Chart House Restaurant. We sidled up to the desk and asked if they had room for us. To my great joy, they did.
We had to walk back around the tower to the elevator, but this time we were inside. After a short wait and a quick conversation with a couple of guys who were also on their way to dinner, we arrived. From the picture above, you can tell that it was a pretty spectacular experience. The view alone was amazing. The restaurant was also nice.
I’ve been in Dallas’s Hyatt Regency Reunion Tower and the Westin’s Peachtree Plaza Tower in Atlanta, so I can tell you that the experiences are very similar. It wouldn’t surprise me to find out that the same architect designed them all. I can also tell you that this was not just a me-too experience. San Antonio is a town very different from Dallas and Atlanta. The spontaneous opportunity turned into a evening I won’t forget for a long time.
We were not seated immediately, but that was OK. We hadn’t had reservations and it was obvious that a lot of other people did. What was not OK, was that if I was going to wait I would have liked to enjoy a drink. The hostess pointed us at several groupings of leather chairs and told us to wait. I assumed it would be a short wait. There was an observation deck above, which may or may not have had a bar, but if I’d known we’d be cooling our heels for a while I would have at least gone exploring.
Still, I wasn’t an unpleasant experience. I sat in the big comfy leather sofa and enjoyed the view. I also enjoyed the arriving dinner patrons. Many were dressed to the nines, suggesting the meal was a special event. The restaurant was also recovering from a big busload of diners. Observing them go down the elevator in batches of a dozen was somewhat interesting.
After the noisy bus tour was back on the ground, a sort of calm settled of the restaurant and I smelled a fragrance I couldn’t at first identify. I pointed it out to Deb and we agreed it wasn’t a food smell and kept trying to guess what it was. Saddle Soap!! The leather sofas had been recently cleaned with saddle soap. There was no residue and the fragrance was subtle, but I enjoyed the little smell association game. Finally, they seated us.
Seated at the Top of San Antonio
We were looking north-ish when we first sat down – sort of toward our lovely Microtel. Not that we could pick it out from up there. As the evening played out we enjoyed the view until we were south-ish, but by then the city had disappeared into the darkness and all we could see was the lights. One disappointment was that you cannot see the Alamo for the big Marriot which is attached to the RiverCenter. That would have been quite wonderful.
What was wonderful was the food. The prices were a little steep. Not that they were expensive for what they offered, they were just more than I usually pay for a meal. We made choices around the outskirts of the menu, not so much for the cost, but because that’s what sounded good. And of course, we ordered Margaritas!
I started with Lobster Bisque – thick, creamy and delicious – just the way I like it. It was not the best I’d ever had, but it was a treat. Deb chose a salad and it was HUGE. Our next course was side orders – sauteed mushrooms, asparagus and an OMG order of Lobster Mac & Cheese. Good thing Deb and I had decreed that nothing had any calories during this entire weekend, otherwise we would have just scored about two days worth of them. OH – and we had a souffle for dessert. My mouth and stomach were in heaven and the view was out of this world.
Farewell to a lovely experience.
Since this trip was my belated birthday celebration, when we met Cousin Brenda she had a belated birthday present for me. Along with some lovely fragrance gifts for my house, she also gave me one of those gift cards you can use for whatever you want. What I wanted was dinner at the Tower of the Americas. Thank you Brenda. We didn’t have to wash dishes to leave the tower.
Maneuvering back to the car was no problem. My internal map had synced with the city. We did have an adventure getting back to the hotel. First the GPS couldn’t figure out where we were when we left the parking lot and then there was the back road approach to the hotel, but all’s well that ends well – right?
Our next stop? The McNay! You’re going to love it, so come back next week.
It was our last day in LA. The family had arrived in waves, and now Bill and I would be the first departing wave. There were only a few hours left. At 1:18 AM, my nephew texted me the location where we’d meet at 10 AM for brunch. At 4:13 AM he texted me to let me know it would actually be 11. The nieces and nephews were keeping different hours than Auntie Jane.
Brunch at Le Pain Quotidien
Before Steven married and moved up to San Francisco, he and Bassem were a pair of young studs enjoying the single life in LA. I can imagine them landing at Le Pain Quotidien to break their fast after a wild night on the town or even for a quiet Sunday morning reading the LA Times.
However, with thirteen people ranging in age from toddler to retired teacher, perhaps we should have gone to IHOP. The little ones couldn’t find anything they wanted to eat and for that matter, neither could I. It was all very healthy, fresh and chic, but I’d been awake since 4:13 AM and I was seriously hungry. Also, we were spread out over several tables in a corner of the cafe and I’m sure our chatter was disruptive to everyone else.
Next Stop
When brunch was over everyone turned to me for our next adventure. I was honored that I hadn’t been disbarred from the family after the Huntington Garden fiasco, but maybe Bill’s telephoned assurance that there actually were amazing things behind the tall hedges saved face for me. Problem was, I’d seen everything I’d put on my wish list except one and I was afraid the Venice Canals might not be appropriate for this huge crowd of people.
I confessed that my bag was empty except for the Canals, but suddenly I had a groundswell of support. Steven and Shannon had courted nearby and Bassem thought the area was amazing. Bill, too, was anxious to see the canals. So we loaded up and headed out.
The Venice Canals
Saturday afternoon with a caravan of cars is not the optimal time to see the canals – still I’m awfully glad they were included at the last minute.
The Venice Canals
You can’t see much from the car, so the entire caravan had to find places to park. I think that privilege came with a price tag of twenty-something dollars per vehicle. I thought that was outrageous, but everyone else took it in stride.
The Venice Canals is a neighborhood built on a series of man-made canals just a few blocks from Venice Beach. The cute bungalows were affordable back in the day. Now if you’ve got two or three extra mil laying around, you too can live there.
Except for the parking, it actually turned into a great outing for our large group. In ever-changing groups of three or four folks, we strung out all along the canals with everyone strolling along at their own pace.
Auntie Jane at the Venice Canals
The canals were a real boon to me. I don’t see my grandniece and grandnephew often enough for them to remember me. So, I was about to leave, but they’d finally decided to let me into their special circle. I pushed their stroller around the canals. We made up a silly game to play as we went over the bridges. We laughed, giggled and sang nonsense songs. I’m sure the residents hated it, but I was in heaven.
Farewell to the Golden State.
Finally, we couldn’t put it off any longer. There was a episode of fruit basket turnover as we re-arranged everyone to accommodate Bassem driving us to the airport. We were going to have to return the Maserati to him. I would miss it. My real car is a Nissan.
I’ll share a few more shots of the picturesque canals, but come back next week. Who knows what I’ll have up my sleeve!
TRAVEL THERE: ORANGE HILL RESTAURANT IN ORANGE COUNTY, CALIFORNIA
This vacation is almost over, but there’s one more treat I want to share with you, Orange Hill Restaurant. It’s one of my favorite places to go and on this trip I enjoyed my meal with one of my favorite people – the one who introduced me to Orange Hill in the first place.
Friends Tell Friends About the Best Places
My buddy Lizbet and I met in Dallas while working for the same company. She’s an extraordinary person, a great friend and a lot of fun. After I moved to California, she made the move a few years later. She settled in another part of the state and she plans on staying.
The first time I drove down to her part of California for a visit, she took me to Orange Hill Restaurant. She tried to tell me how cool it was ahead of time but I guess I didn’t pay any attention. Now I’m going to tell you, but you’ll probably doubt me, too.
The View’s the Thing
Orange Hill Restaurant is actually up on Orange Hill. Most of Orange County is a flat plain, but right there just past the corner of Chapman Road and Canyon View is a small road with a sign pointing up a hill that promises Orange Hill Restaurant. Even though the address is on Chapman Road, follow the sign. You still have a way to go. Just wait until you’re up the hill to enjoy the view. Orange Hill Restaurant has a great patio and there won’t be any on-coming cars.
At the top of the drive you’ll arrive at a porte-cochères where a valet will park your car. Don’t fall into the koi pond as you admire the unique masonry of natural stone. Inside there’s an elegantly appointed dining room, but you won’t see it. You’ll be bowled over by the view. Spread beneath you like a carpet is all of Orange County.
Sunset from Orange Hill Restaurant
But the Meal’s Pretty Good
There’s nothing extraordinary about the menu at Orange Hill Restaurant. There’s nothing wrong with it either. Steak, seafood and for the health nuts – Vegetarian Pasta Primavera. The prices will set you back a bit, but they’re not unreasonable. We ordered a table-ful of food and it was all delicious – but with a view like that, who cares?
Lizbet and I hadn’t seen one another in a long time, so we had a lot of catching up to do. I’m sure our waitress hated us. We camped out for hours. As we sat there in our window seat, the sun disappeared from view and the plain below us lit up. It was quite a sight. I guarantee you, the patio was at maximum capacity.
All This and Fireworks, Too
Here’s one thing I failed to mention – the fireworks. You know how Disneyland has fireworks most evenings right at closing time. Well, guess what! You can see them from Orange Hill. That’s right. Give yourself a pat on the back. If Disneyland has fireworks on any given night, then you can see them from Orange Hill Restaurant.
That’s why, with all of LA and Orange County to choose from, I drove from San Marino to Orange Hill and back to Studio City. Lizbet would have met me anywhere I suggested. Like Moonstone Beach and the Getty Villa, I wasn’t going to miss the chance to share one of my favorite places with one of my favorite people.
All that’s left on this trip is a couple of loose ends. Join me next week for a great brunch spot. Then I’ll have to think of someplace else to go.
TRAVEL THERE: PLEASANT STAY AT FIRESTONE INN ON MOONSTONE BAY
Well Merry Christmas to everyone. I hope this is a holiday to remember. I’ll continue with my travelogue.
Fireside Inn at Moonstone Beach in Cambria is now on my list of favorite bed-and-breakfast inns. I think you’d like it, too.
TRIP INTERRUPTED
Several months back I explained how this trip to California went through several permutations before I actually got to take it. Though pretty much everything about the trip changed several times over, I guarded my night on Moonstone Beach with a vengeance. It was one of those experiences that I’d wanted for a long time and I was determined to keep it on the itinerary.
I wasn’t so sure about the accommodations. Though I’ve been doing my booking with Expedia for years, recently I’ve begun to do a lot of research on Trip Advisor. Their reviews seem to resonate with me more than the Expedia crowd’s and I love using the Saved Trips feature for things I want to see while I’m researching. And of course there’s an app, so I can get to the items I’ve saved when I’m out on the road.
There was one small problem with Moonstone Beach. Every single inn sounded perfect. Oh, there was usually one or two people who ranted about smelly rooms or noise or something, but those grumps were sprinkled pretty evenly among my choices. Each time I got online I’d change my mind and Bill wasn’t much help either. Eventually, I chose Fireside Inn, but I have no reasonable explanation for it. I just had to make a decision, so I did.
GREAT ROOMS AND BETTER SERVICE
It was late afternoon, almost evening, when we arrived and the desk clerk made it seem as if he’d just been dying for us to get there. He was friendly in a genuine way, not in a corporate mandate way. He was full of restaurant suggestions and well wishes. He acted like he hoped we’d have a reason to call him so he could visit with us again.
With that kind of reception you want to like your room and we did. It was huge and felt more like a suite. The bathroom had plenty of room for two people and was perfectly appointed. The room itself was down right luxurious. Not in an expensive over the top sort of way, but it made me want to curl up on the sofa in front of the fire.
Speaking of the fireplace, it didn’t work at first, but when I called my friend at the desk he hurried over and jiggled whatever needed to be jiggled. The flame lit right up. My desk clerk fan explained that it would be safe to sleep with the fire going, so we did.
MOONSTONE BAR AND GRILL
Right next door to the Fireside Inn is the Moonstone Bar and Grill. My desk clerk friend endorsed it as a great place for dinner. I remembered having at least one meal there and reviewers had raved about it, so that’s where we had dinner.
The place was jammed and it had been redecorated since our last visit. The menu had also been completely revamped. We were looking to grab a bite and they wanted us to go the full monty. We were tired from driving all day and the noise level was extreme.
So it was not our favorite dining experience of the trip, but I think that had more to do with us than them. The last meal we had there was earlier in the day, so we got to enjoy the view out of the big picture windows overlooking Moonstone Beach. I’m thinking this is a “go-there-for-lunch” place – at least for us.
BACK TO THE ROOM
So after dinner we chilled out by the fire. My only regret about the Fireside Inn is that I only had one night there. I think it deserves at least a three night stay. I lounged on the sofa before the fire jotting down notes from the day. Notes which, by the way, are now packed away in some box while I’m waiting for my house to get finished. I’m writing this from memory rather than my copious notes.
One thing I wanted to be sure everyone understood. This is a casual seaside inn. For me this was a plus – and the rooms are out of this world. However, this is not the Taj Mahal. There’s nothing fancy about the exterior or the hallways. There’s nothing wrong with them either. The lobby is pleasant, but not opulent It’s clear everything is meticulously maintained, but there are no frills. They save the good things for the room and have extreme hospitality instead of Louis XVI antiques.
BREAKFAST WAS AMAZING
We woke up refreshed with the fire still blazing. It was one of those memories that sticks with you long after you’ve forgotten what you ate at that expensive restaurant. We got ready for another day on the road and wandered over to the breakfast room.
What a nice experience! Breakfast was served buffet style, so you could get whatever you wanted. They didn’t have anyone cooking fresh eggs and such, but they did have a fresh pancake machine. I thought that was cool, because most places have a waffle machine. I ate with a growing appetite and everything was delicious.
The room itself is next to the pool and the day was warm enough for them to have the french doors open. Crisp linens covered the tables and I liked the ladderback chairs. Everything felt comfortable and homey. Did I mention the food was delicious?
We climbed in our car and continued down Highway One, exiting at Morro Bay. We were about to wander down memory lane. Come back next week and wander with us.
The time to head south is drawing close, but let me tell you about a couple more meals in San Francisco.
Not Your Dallas Goodfellas
On Saturday night after Pinot Days we hung out at my nephew’s condo. Confession: I’m not good at hanging out. I feel like I need to be DOING something – so I read while we hung.
However, I was quite happy to put down my Kindle when the Goodfellas Pizza arrived. You need to know that a Goodfellas Pizza in San Francisco is a whole different thing than your Goodfellas Pizza in Dallas. I haven’t been to the Dallas Goodfellas, but browsing around on the internet it was easy to tell.
The important thing to remember when ordering Goodfellas Pizza in San Francisco is that you only need to order a slice. Heavens know what we would have gotten if we had ordered a whole pizza. As my nephew went around taking orders, he tried to impress upon each of us that we could each have whatever we wanted, because you ordered it by the slice. There was quite a bit of haggling as the other guys tried to convince my nephew that we should all just agree on a type of pizza and order one. What eventually arrived was an array of huge pizza slices, but each slice was more like three slices. There was plenty of each type of pizza and more to share.
Sunday Night at Vicoletto
There’s one more thing you need to know about the area of San Francisco called North Beach, where my nephew’s condo is located. Another name for the area is Little Italy. That explains why in the few days we were there we ate so much Italian food.
On Sunday night we walked to Vicoletto’s. Like the other restaurants in the area, this is a small, neighborhood-type restaurant, greatly removed from anything resembling a chain. Most of the world was still wherever they were after America played a playoff game in the World Cup – and it was a Sunday night. However, Vicoletto’s was not hurting for business.
What they were suffering from was a lack of waiters. For reasons that were never exactly clear, our waiter was the only waiter for the whole restaurant. It might have been a small place, but it wasn’t that small. A large party of perhaps twenty lined one side of the restaurant and then couples were sprinkled about the rest of the room. then there was the four of us.
For being the only guy there, our waiter did a good job, but it was obvious he was stretched. The lack of waiters had no effect at all on the food. It came out hot and seriously delicious. We’d brought our own wine and paid a corkage fee. Their food and our wine made for a wonderful experience.
One of the things I liked best about my nephew’s North Beach digs is the whole walking to the restaurant experience. the walk there whets your appetite and the walk home helps digest the food. I like my house in Texas with a yard and garage, but there’s nothing wrong with having the world within a few blocks of your home either.
Monday morning we got up early and hit the road. Come back next week and find out about the incredible scenery on Highway One.
Who wouldn’t go to San Francisco to visit this little guy?
TRAVEL THERE: BRUNCH AT ORIGINAL JOE’S AND CAFE FRANCISCO
For us, the main attraction in San Francisco was Jack. He’s our grand-nephew and being one year old was still brand new to him when we got there. Imagine all the wonderful things you can do with a darling one year old boy and insert them here. We also enjoyed some great food.
In the Thick of Things
Jack’s parents are hip. Really! Dad went to Greenhill, graduated from Wharton School of Business, got married in a museum and is an investment banker in the gaming industry. If I wrote a novel about him, people would think I made him up. Mom also went to Greenhill, has her MBA from UTD, had a ballet commissioned for her wedding reception and she spends her days being Jack’s mommy.
Saturday morning after Jack’s morning routine was accomplished, we took a stroll to Original Joe’s. In San Francisco you stroll a lot. It’s not a car-centric society like LA or Dallas. There are plenty of cars, but you don’t drive one unless you have to.
The beautiful Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul also faces Washington Square.
Original Joe’s faces Washington Square Park on Union Street. The restaurant may be a San Francisco classic, but once I was inside, I thought I was in New York’s Little Italy. Black and white tile floors, lots of woodwork, tuxedo-ed waiters, white linen tablecloths, gleaming chrome and brass; and the aroma of marinara permeates it all.
The food? OMG! We stuck to the brunch menu, enjoying treats like Crab Cake Benedict, Brioche French Toast and other amazing goodies. The food looked so delicious when it arrived, I dove right in! The prices are reasonable, but not cheap.
Brunch at Cafe Francisco
Sunday morning Bill and I ventured out on our own to Cafe Francisco, just around the corner from our nephew’s condo. For me, this brunch spot felt more San Francisco-ish than the more famous Original Joe’s. The space had for many years been an artist’s studio and along with serving great Belgian waffles, Cafe Francisco is also an art gallery.
If I lived in my nephew’s condo, I might just convert my kitchen into a gym and have all my meals at Cafe Francisco. The prices were so reasonable that I doubt you can cook at home for so cheap. The menu is not extensive, but it’s got everything from breakfast to Mediterranean salads to amazing cheese plates paired by the Cheese School of San Francisco. I wish I’d gotten back over there to enjoy a bottle of wine and one of those cheese plates.
These were not our only gastronomic adventures in San Fran. After brunch at Original Joe’s we went to Pinot Nights. Come back next week and I’ll tell you about that.
When you’re traveling, is a good night’s sleep good luck or good planning? Or could it be because you’re too exhausted to do anything else?
We Gotta Get Out of LA
As we surrendered to Navi (the GPS) and headed north, I was fantasizing about pillows and linen,but my job as navigator wasn’t over. About the time we got to Thousand Oaks, Bill wanted to eat. Food was just about the last thing I wanted, but through experience I’ve learned, when Bill wants food I’d better find a restaurant.
Gastronomic Detour
Do you remember what life was like before our electronic traveling friends? You drove along hoping to see a sign on the side of the road, but you’d never just pull off the road, because you might never figure out how to get back. Using that method, I might have made it to Carpenteria without having to stop, but no, Bill tells me to get out my phone. Lo and behold, Google Local tells me there’s a BJ’s in the neighborhood and Bill takes the next exit. We kept Navi pointed towards Carpenteria and used Local to get to BJ’s.
Now I really want to whine and complain about how awful it was, because I was really tired and not very hungry, but we shared BJ’s new Roast Beef Dip Sandwich, and I’ve got to be honest with you, it was really good. In my day we called them French Dip Sandwiches, but I guess in this new politically-correct world, that might have some negative connotation – like all French people are dips. Either that or some teenager planning their menu didn’t know their au jus from their assembly line.
A Reward at the End of our Drive
Sandwich happily consumed, we drove on to Carpenteria and found the Holiday Inn Express where I’d made our reservations. This was an older property, but completely renovated, so you had all the charm of the old with all the convenience of the new. The desk clerk checked us in like a champ, then we found a parking place close to our room and we moved ourselves in.
The room was wonderful. A small seating area and mini-kitchen were separated from the bed by an attractive divider. The furniture was new, but some older decorative touches were carried into the new design to add character. We were very happy.
I would have loved to crawl in bed oblivious to everything, but I knew the drill. I wake up at six and Bill doesn’t. I’d get up raring to go and Bill would be livid at my rattling around, if I didn’t get things ready ahead of time. So, with a foggy brain I started re-organizing everything and getting ready for the rest of the trip, because packing for a flight and packing for a road trip are two different things.
Those gifts that took up half my suitcase? Well they were moved to the tote-bag. All my shoes, belts and accessories? I’d packed a fold-up nylon bag for them. Pretty much everything else we packed needed to be shuffled around, too. When I’d reorganized everything to suit me, I pulled out my exercise gear and an outfit for the next day, then fell into bed. I was asleep before my head hit the pillow.
A Bright New Day
Yes, I did wake up at six. I slithered into my workout clothes and found the exercise room – a nice one I might add. They didn’t have a recumbent stationary bike, like I do at home, but the treadmills were in good working order and I slammed out an hour of cardio. Then I was starving, so I went to the breakfast bar.
Cinnamon Rolls from Heaven
Let me tell you this – Holiday Inn Express rocks their breakfast buffet. My particular favorite is their cinnamon rolls. But they have everything from bacon and eggs to a pancake machine to hot biscuits. They also have healthy things, so with my single cinnamon roll I had a boiled egg, yogurt and apple juice.
I returned to the room and Bill was stirring, so I returned to the breakfast bar with him – not to eat, just for companionship. He got breakfast down, we got ready for the day and headed out.
Vacation Day One is ahead and it was a great one, so come back next week.
“You can’t always get what you want!” The Rolling Stones were spot on with that one – especially when it came to this vacation. The Polar Express gypped me out of my luminaries on the Riverwalk and then followed me to the beach.
My mom used to say things like, “If you had the sense God gave a goozle,” (and I’m not exactly sure what a goozle is) but I’m sure my husband was thinking the same sort of thing as we froze our assets off, strolling down the Strand.
Important, but Chilly Anniversary
I was expecting big things from this British-flavored festival with its side order of Victorian literature. This was the fortieth Dickens-on-the-Strand and for the first time, it was a three day festival, not just an overnight flash in the pan. What I didn’t expect was London! Actually London has been warmer the few times I’ve been there. This was more like the cold, wet, windy day I’d visited Coventry Cathedral and had nothing but a thin windbreaker between me and the chill. I think that’s the coldest I’d ever been up until that day in Galveston.
Bill really does deserve the Champion Husband of the World Award – at least in the travel department. Anyone with any sense would have headed back to Dallas after our frozen stay in San Antonio, but not me. I was going to Dickens on the Strand and I had friends to see. The friends were worth it. Dickens? Not so much. The festival may have been in full swing the day before, but on it’s inaugural first Sunday, it was a ghost story, and not in a cozy Christmas Carol way.
Still, we found a cheap place to park, walked several blocks to the entrance, paid our fee and landed virtually nowhere. A few braves souls strolled the streets in their Victorian finery, but we had to decide who was dumber for showing up – us or them. A few performers mounted stages and tried to entertain the lost souls wandering the Strand, but it was cold enough out there without stopping and standing in one place. The greatest hub of activity was an area for steam-punk enthusiasts, an important factor in the popularity of the festival, but try as I may, I have very little, beyond a passing interest, in steampunk – and Bill had less than that.
When All Else Fails, Eat
We might have had an interest in chestnuts roasting on an open fire, but most of the heat seemed to be at Yaga’s Cafe. The crowded interior didn’t seem to suffer from it’s lack of an identifiable theme in the decoration or menu. The service was friendly, if not adequate, and the food adequate, if not tasty.
Lunch behind us, we explored the island by car for awhile and decided we’d certainly return, but next time, we’d rent a beachside cottage and the weather would be warmer. For dinner we drove back towards Houston to meet some Pearland friends, Jimmy and Melanie, at Pappas Seafood House. Now that was good seafood and good company. We are fortunate in our friends, even if we don’t always make the best decisions about when to visit the beach.
So, should you go to Dickens on the Strand? I might go back someday, but I’d check the weather, go on Saturday and stay somewhere besides the Beachfront Palms. Come back next week and we’ll start thinking about a new trip!
TRAVEL THERE: THE SOUTH TEXAS CHRISTMAS RAMBLE MOVES WEST TO GALVESTON
As usual, San Antonio served up a good time. I’d been to some of my old favorites and tried out some new things. The biggest disappointment was the Polar Express that blew in, cancelling the luminaries on the Riverwalk, which had been the impetus for my trip. My favorite new thing was the Blue Crab Salad at Boudros or maybe it was the new Briscoe Western Museum or perhaps… I’ll just have to face it. I love San Antonio. I haven’t even finished writing about the last trip and I’m ready to go again.
Breakfast at Cracker Barrel
Speaking of new things, been to the Cracker Barrel lately? Hubby loves it and in the past, I’ve tolerated it, because breakfast has never been my favorite meal. However, I discovered something new as we left San Antonio. For some reason Cracker Barrel doesn’t have it on their website and that’s a real shame, because I forgot what they called it. Regardless of it’s moniker, it’s an extraordinary frittata with egg, cheese, bacon and who knows what else, with blackberries on the side. I’m not a fan of omelettes. I don’t like scrambled eggs and I prefer my veggies to be cooked before they’re mixed with the eggs, but frittatas, I love! Also, since going on the South Beach Diet, I’ve permanently abandoned potatoes, so I don’t eat those egg casseroles with hash-browns, either. This new dish, that I’ve forgotten the name of, was right up my alley. For the rest of the trip I was suggesting Cracker Barrel for breakfast.
Stayed at The Beachfront Palms
We pulled into Galveston around three and found the Beachfront Palms without any trouble. We’d gotten an expedia deal on the room and it was a decent place to stay, but it was completely no frills and no thrills. They’d recently done a remodel, but only cosmetic fixes, no upgrade. The appliances really needed replacement. The pillows were thin and the bedspread was some sort of slick made-in-china excuse for fabric. We were there for only two nights and had other places to be, so we lived through it. (A little fact checking on the internet revealed that the Beachfront Palms is now a Red Roof Inn. It was an indie when we were there. Good luck with that.)
Our first order of Galveston business was to see Linda and Clay. In the days before I arrived on the scene, Linda was one of Bill’s best friends. Since then, he married me and she married Clay, forming a rather syrupy mutual appreciation society. Now, they’ve retired to Galveston and live in the penthouse of one of those high rise condos right on the seawall. I’ll go a couple of years without visiting and then walk back into their place -OMG!OMG!OMG! It’s like living on a cruise ship and having a balcony suite! You’re so high up that the highway, seawall and beach completely disappear and it seems you’re suspended above an endless sea. I try to play like it’s only jaw-dropping because I see it so infrequently, but if I lived there, I’d probably still wake up in the morning and say OMG!OMG!OMG!
Clary’s for Dinner
Our friends took us to Clary’s for dinner. I’ve got to be fair and tell you that they love it and everyone who works there treated us like we were the King and Queen of Dallas on a state visit to Her Royal Highness, the Holy Roman Empress of Galveston – but that didn’t take a lot of effort. Everyone who knows her, loves Linda. We just thought the food was mediocre. Linda and Clay say they eat there several nights a week, so maybe our mouths were just out of joint, but I’d have rather been at Gaido’s.
It’s always good to catch up with good friends, but we were there for Dicken’s on the Strand, so we returned to the Beachfront Palms and tucked the strange feeling bedspread under our chin, because Baby, it was cold down there.