Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, International, Museums, Performing Arts, Road Trips, TRAVEL

A Stroll Through Vienna

Now where was the boat?
Now where was the boat?

TRAVEL THERE: MILKING THE SHORE EXCURSION FOR ALL I CAN GET

So, after a morning of museums, Bill was done with Vienna and ready to go back to the boat for lunch.  However, if we went back, I knew he wouldn’t be getting off the boat again, so I convinced him to at least have some lunch in the city.  I told you how that went.  Shame on you Rick Steves!  Now I’ll tell you about the balance of the day.

A Drizzly Walking Tour

Because he loves me and maybe a little bit because he’d loved the architecture he’d seen so far, Mr.Bill agreed to a stroll around the Hofburg environs for awhile.  I was able to show him on the map that I didn’t plan to get more than a block or two away from the palace, so he set his teeth and headed off with me.

Whereas Mr. Bill was trying to be cooperative, the weather was not.  The sun played peek-a-boo (more boo that peek) with us and whenever the sun disappeared, the drizzle would return.  Was is miserable?  Yes!  Was I going to let it deter me? NO!

The Gang at the Opera
The Gang at the Opera – a bit damp but quite happy!

Our first stop after lunch was the State Opera House.  I would have dearly loved to go to one of their productions or take a tour of the interior, but that didn’t fit into our  schedule.  I have to confess that the exterior of the venerable old lady was not one of my favorite edifices of the day.  It really pales in comparison to surrounding buildings.  However, that’s where we ran into our shipmates and that was a bright spot in the day.  I have to admit they pranked me.  They pretended they were lost and asked me to show them how to get back to the boat.

After that Bill trudged along behind me snapping pictures of the sights along the Ringstrausse.  I got him all the way down to the Rathausplatz before he mutinied and demanded to be taken back to the boat.  So we strolled through the Volksgarten towards the Grabenplatz.  I reminded him of the Dortheum, an auction house he’d shown some interest in during my days of research.  Rick Steves redeemed himself, because that was quite interesting.  Maybe not as interesting as Rick made it sound, but interesting – and dry.

3V Walk (60)The Dortheum is about half a block from Grabenplatz and from there we entered the underground at Stephanplatz.  We had a little difficulty purchasing our return ticket, but the problem was with the machine, not us and a nice subway attendant lady came and helped.  Soon we were back on board the Tor – just in time for our afternoon tea break.  Bill was once again a happy boy.

Dinner was a little later this evening than it was during the rest of the cruise, because they were serving a special meal to those heading out to a night shore excursion.  Had I known how the day would go, I would have probably opted for one of them, but part of the adventure of traveling is not knowing.  Sometimes that’s good and sometimes you end up having a quiet evening on the boat.  Since our friends were on the evening shore excursion, we had a quieter than usual evening, but a good one.  We still very much enjoy each others’ company.

I’ll share our pictures from our walk about, then I hope you’ll come back next week for The Wachau Valley.

 

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, Decorative Arts, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, International, Museums, Road Trips, TRAVEL

The Hofburg Palace Treasury

3V T (14)TRAVEL THERE: HOW DO YOU SPELL EXCESS?

Exiting from the Hofburg’s Imperial Apartments in Vienna, we discovered it was still raining on our parade.  A little morning precipitation had been disheartening.  To discover drizzle still dominating the day was downright frustrating.

Mourning the Loss of Plan A

I know my husband.  It’s all well and good to spend a few hours in a museum and the Imperial Apartments were extraordinarily fine museums, but I’d better have something else besides museums on the agenda.

Plan A was designed with just that in mind.  Next door to the palace is the Volksgarten.  We’re talking European next door, not American.  That means right across a small street from the exit of the Imperial Apartments is this popular garden.  We were supposed to catch our breath from all that royal grandeur in a lovely garden which just happened to have a coffee kisok right there.  It was perfect or at least it should have been.

The glorious Volksgarten is not so inviting in the pouring rain.
The glorious Volksgarten is not so inviting in the pouring rain.

Instead, the main thing we wanted to do was get out of the rain.  I half-heartedly offered up chocolate at Dremel or a visit to the Dortheum, an auction house he’s shown an interest in.  I know either one would have been a good choice, but right then all he wanted to do was get out of the rain.  Well, he’d probably have been perfectly happy to take a taxi back to the boat and see what kind of pastries were available at the free coffee bar.

Because he loves me, he wanted me to see the most important things on my very long list of must-see attractions, but he wasn’t thrilled about it.  A part of me whispered that I should get this man back to the boat and let him browse the coffee bar, but I was afraid that if I did, I’d miss everything else on my list.  He doesn’t approve of me wandering around strange cities without an escort of some kind and once he was back on the boat, I’m betting dynamite would not have gotten him off it for yet another subway ride and more stomping around in the rain.

As I stood there with all of this floating around in my mind I mourned the possibilities I’d wished for.  I’d imagined Bill in the Volksgarten, with his cup of coffee in hand, oooohing and aaaahing over all the wonderful options we had to choose from.  Instead the chill of the mist was invading our crevices and Bill became impatient with my list of attractions.  “What are we closest to that’s inside?” he wanted to know.  “The Treasury,” I replied,”but it’s a museum.”  He said, “lead the way.”

Back into the Hofburg

Thanks to my friend, Rick Steves’ Eastern Europe guide book and DK Eyewitness Travel’s Top 10 Vienna, I knew my way around the palace.  I led Bill through a tunnel to the In der Burg courtyard, through the Swiss Gate to the Schweizerhof which held the Treasury.  Part of me whispered I was making a big mistake, but this was number two on my list of must-see’s and it was out of the rain, so I didn’t know what else to do.  I think this was one of those lose-lose situations and there had not been a correct answer to the drizzle dilemma.

We were wowed by the Treasury.  Bill’s fatigue was dispelled as he began photographing everything in sight.  I kept trying to put it all together.  This was the fourth day of the cruise and all four days had been dominated by the Hapsburg Dynasty.  We’d already seen so many remarkable sites associated with their wealth, grandeur and power.  I couldn’t get over the fact that the Hapsburgs toted all this stuff around with them wherever they went.  I’d assumed that each of their many castles had it’s own set of china and flatware, but instead the emperors and their entourage packed it all up in velvet and silk lined leather boxes to carry it with them.  After all, an empress never knows when she might need several hundred silver charging plates.

As if the Silver Collection of the Imperial Apartments had not held enough treasures for any dynasty, we were now in a treasury which was chockablock with more golden, silver and jeweled wonders.  At some point my disbelief checked itself out and I just wandered around awestruck.

I’ll share some of the pictures Bill took.  Then you come back next week and hear how my dream day in Vienna continued to disintegrate.

 

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, Decorative Arts, DESTINATIONS, International, Museums, Road Trips, TRAVEL

The Rest of the Imperial Apartments

In between the wonders of the Imperial Apartments
In between the wonders of the Imperial Apartments

TRAVEL THERE: COMING DOWN OFF MY DECORATIVE ARTS HIGH

So we’re in Vienna on Viking’s Danube Waltz Cruise.  I’ve just been through the Silver Collection of the Hofburg’s Imperial Apartments and my excitement level is at about 27 out of 10.  The Hofburg allows you to take all the photographs you want in the Silver Collection, but you have to put your cameras away for the Sissi Museum and Imperial Apartments, so you’re imagination (or the internet) will have to provide the visuals.  

The Sissi Phenomena

Austrians love their Empress Elizabeth and I can’t exactly figure out why.  Her story starts out pretty well.  Beloved daughter of obscure Bavarian royalty enjoys an idyllic childhood.  In her early teens, she tagged along on a trip with her big sister, who was being checked out by the Crown Prince of the Hapsburg Dynasty as a potential mate.  Once old Fredrick laid eyes on Elizabeth, big sis was toast.  Within days, Freddy and his “Sissi” were engaged, to the extreme joy of everyone in Europe, with the exception (perhaps) of big sis.

A few days later, the story changes.  Sissi is a drama queen.  She starts wringing her hands and emoting all over her diary.  Poor pitiful princess finds being adored a real challenge.  The rest of her life is one big panic attack.  I’m sorry.  I’m not suggesting panic attacks aren’t serious, but Little Miss Sissi makes a career out of them.  Pretty much her whole life can be summed up by the famous Garbo line, “I want to be alone.”

Now the woman’s life was punctuated by tragedies, but she’d already cast herself as the Queen of Melodrama long before any of them occurred.  By the time her son committed suicide, mama was already far along down the road to nutcase.  This is a woman who spent three hours on her hair each day and she thought her most important duty in life was to keep her eighteen inch waist.  No wonder her son was desperate for female affection and committed suicide when his mistress was going to be taken from him.

In spite of her complete failure in the wife and mother department (she did give birth to several children, but then promptly ignored them) she was adored by her rather stick-in-the-mud hubby and idolized by her subjects.  I just don’t appreciate all her hand-wringing.  I prefer somebody like Empress Maria-Theresa, who gets out there and does something more with her life than fix her hair, watch her waistline and write dreadful poetry.

So, with the opinion I have of the woman, you can imagine I was not thrilled with the “Sissi Museum” section of the Imperial Apartments.  It was interesting to see some of her clothes and other personal items, but I would have been happy with a small sampling, instead of room after room of Austrian swooning.

The Imperial Apartments at the End of the Trail

By the time we actually reached the Imperial Apartments I was worn out.  We’d been through the excitement of finding our own way to the Hofburg from our longship via Vienna’s underground and Graben Strasse.  I’d exulted over every item in the extensive Silver Collection and then been held hostage by the Sissi Fan Club, but we weren’t finished.  Now we entered the actual Apartments all tricked out as they had been during the reign of Emperor Fredrich and his tragic Empress Sissi.

Confession, I was underwhelmed.  Yes, they were beautiful apartments exquisitely furnished, but it just wasn’t my taste.  I much prefer Schonbrunn Palace or the delightful Linderhof.  Maybe if I had liked Sissi more or hadn’t been so overwhelmed by the Silver Collection, I might have enjoyed the Imperial Apartments more, but that’s the way it goes.  All three sections are included in the price of admission, so check them all out, but if your time is limited and you love Decorative Arts, spend your time at the Silver Collection!

So where did we go next on our rainy day in Vienna.  Come back next week and find out.

ART, Attractions, Cruising, Decorative Arts, DESTINATIONS, International, Museums, Road Trips, TRAVEL

The Hofburg’s Imperial Apartments – A Real Must-See

Here's a place you need to see to believe!
Here’s a place you need to see to believe!

TRAVEL THERE: MORE GOLD THAN YOU CAN COMPREHEND

Let me make one thing very clear, if you are in Vienna, don’t miss the Hofburg.  If I had gone there on my very first visit to the city I don’t know if I would have ever gotten to anyplace else in Vienna, ever.  Chances are, if I ever do get back to Vienna, I’ll be making a beeline the Hofburg and the first thing I will do is go visit the Imperial Apartments – again and again and again.

Getting There

The Stephanplatz is a good starting point for all things Vienna.  When you land there you are moments away from the Hofburg.  Enjoy those moments.  Gawk at the goods in the designer stores, people-watch and stop in Dremel for some chocolate.  Spend some time at Michaelplatz, the grand entrance of the Hofburg.  As if to prove this has been always been the center of activity in Vienna, you’ll find an archaeological dig with Roman ruins right outside the entrance to the palace.

Don’t hurry through the Michaelplatz.  Along with the Roman ruins you’ll see spectacular sculptures.  If architecture is your thing, turn around and gaze at the very plain bank building across from the palace.  A persnickety architect, built the building as his home to act as affront to what he considered the very gaudy palace.  Poor Bill!  I was desperate to capture all of this in photographs and he obliged me, but it wasn’t exactly the right day for great pictures.

Entering The Imperial Apartments

After enjoying Michealplatz, enter the palace and turn right.  You’ll be in the vestibule of the Imperial Apartments where you get your ticket to enter.  We had the misfortune of being there when their credit card machine wasn’t working.  Instead of being in a tizzy, trying to find out what was wrong and how to fix it like American cashiers would be, the attendant informed us we’d have to use cash in a very blase manner suggesting she really didn’t care whether we saw the museum or not.  I felt very American at that point.  I wanted her to sympathize with the fact that she’d be depleting almost the entire cache of our euros.  Euros Bill had been loathe to buy and besides that her city was raining on us.  This was all very distressing.  You’ll be glad to know I managed to restrain myself and cough up the necessary euros, but that didn’t mean I was happy about it.

Decorative Arts Heaven

My dismay was short-lived, because I was soon standing in Decorative Arts heaven.  I cannot begin to tell you how amazing and wonderful the Imperial Apartments are.  As I lay dying, with my life passing before me, a good portion of the pictures I’ll see will be from the Imperial Apartments’ Silver Collection.  Hyperbole?  Don’t judge me until you see this!

Calling this orgy of beauty the Imperial Apartments is a bit of a misnomer.  The Silver Collection is actually the first part of three very different attractions which have been rolled into one.  The actual Imperial Apartments are at the end of the line and while quite nice, they are nothing compared to the Silver Collection.

To help you better understand why I am so blown away with the “Silver Collection” you first have to understand silver is just the tip of the iceberg.  There is silver and gold and porcelain and linens and even the boxes they transported all these wonders in.  We’re talking flatware, dishes, epergnes, vases, platters, bowls, tureens, napkins, tablecloths – all in multiples like you would not believe.

I’m someone who will dutifully spend hours stomping through the rest of a huge museum for the privilege of spending time in the one small room most institutions devote to the Decorative Arts.  There are museums which have more Decorative Arts than others, for which I am grateful, but I’ve never been anywhere like this.

I think I’ll just shut up and show you the pictures Bill took for me.  Then maybe next week I’ll tell you about the rest of the Imperial Apartments.

 

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, Music, Performing Arts, TRAVEL

Shore Excursion to Bratislava, Slovakia

TRAVEL THERE: NOT EXACTLY WHAT I WANTED IN BRATISLAVA

Bratislava is a lovely little town with the oldest surviving town gate in Continental Europe.  However, I ran into several complications in my efforts to enjoy this stop on our cruise.  The video includes the highlights of the shore excursion and I’ll tell you about my difficulties behind the scenes. 

The Walking Tour That Wasn’t the Walking Tour

I had carefully studied the available shore excursions back in Dallas and after a careful examination, decided the Bratislava Walking Tour was superior to the Bratislava City Tour.  Both involved walking around the Old City, but one included a bus trip to what I call Faux Castle.

See there once was a real castle up on Castle Hill.  However, it was nothing but a ruin when the Communists showed up.  They decided they needed to replace the castle, but all they did was build a modern building and call it a castle.  I had no desire to see their modern day monstrosity.

However, when I showed up on the dock, we were ushered to a bus and I got the distinct feeling I wasn’t going to be happy about it.  In Viking’s defense, I didn’t say anything to anybody once I feared I was on the wrong tour.  I guess the jet lag or something had finally hit me, because I wasn’t feeling completely up to par and I just didn’t have the desire to rock the boat – or the bus.  My bad.

I have no idea who this guy was, but he has pride of place on Castle Hill.
I have no idea who this guy was, but he has pride of place on Castle Hill.

The bus took us up Castle Hill and dumped us out at the Faux Castle for an orgy of picture taking.  The scenery was great, but there’s nothing that makes you feel more like a tourist than being dumped off for a photo opportunity when you don’t really understand why you are there in the first place.  The guide never even pretended the castle had any historical or architectural significance.  She just said we had ten minutes to take pictures and abandoned us.

On cue, we filed back on the bus after taking our photos and rode down the hill.  Then we went on a walking tour which was somewhat interesting, but not compelling.  That might have been because the grumblings in my stomach were getting most of my attention, but I was also wondering how the tour sans the Faux Castle would have differed.  My new friends assured me they had a great time on the real walking tour, but since Deb was the sort to have fun whatever she was doing, I don’t know if she can be trusted.

Woulda, Coulda, Shoulda

Andrew Petcher (a fellow travel blogger I highly recommend), suggested free-style wandering was the best way to see the town, but with Mr. Bill in tow, free-style can be problematic.  I think Andrew was probably right.  With my Rick Steves’ tour book in hand and no tour guide to keep up with, I think I would have thoroughly enjoyed the capital of Slovakia.  The architecture was charming and the quirky sculpture sprinkled throughout the town made for some great snickering.

The UFO Restaurant
The UFO Restaurant

I think it would be a great place to spend a quiet weekend, but it’s a little far from Dallas for me to check out that theory.  My greatest regret was not getting to the UFO Restaurant atop a bridge, another gift of the Communists.  After the walking tour we were given some free time, but by then I desperately needed a little private time in my cabin.

A Slovakian Evening

By 6:45 I had gotten myself back into cruise mode and was front and center for the Daily Briefing.  We had dinner with our cruise buddies and then made our way back to Lounge for “A Slovakian Evening.”

The entertainment was delightful.  Those great big ocean liners can provide productions to rival Broadway and Hollywood, but you have to share them with your 3000 new friends.  I’m sort of over that.  I much preferred the intimate setting of the Lounge, where we gathered comfortably with 178 (give or take a few) other passengers.  The show was marvelous.  In fact, after some expensive entertainment in Vienna, our friends told us the onboard entertainment had much better performers than the Viennese show.  We thoroughly enjoyed the Slovakian Evening, because the songs were familiar, the costumes were beautiful and performers were gifted.

Below I have included some photos of the entertainment.  I hope you’ll come back next week for Vienna – the highlight of the cruise.

 

 

 

Architecture, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, TRAVEL

A Quiet Morning on the Danube

TRAVEL THERE:ON THE DANUBE BEND

The third day of our trip began on the river.  We cruised an area known as the Danube Bend and while it is a pleasant stretch, it’s not exactly postcard worthy.  Bratislava, Slovakia waited around then Bend and a lovely evening of entertainment was in store, but our morning was quiet.

A Slow Start

This was the only day we didn’t have to be up and about for a morning shore excursion, so we took it a little slow.  I was up before Bill and when I looked out the window I saw piles of dirt along the riverbank which were similar to the piles of sand American road crews keep for icy weather.  I have no idea what the sand was for, but that’s what the piles looked like.  As I said, not exactly postcard perfect.

While we took our time, it’s not like we were lag-a-beds.  Breakfast was only served until 9:30 in the restaurant and we got there in plenty of time for Bill to order from the menu.  I stuck to nibbling goodies from the buffet.

All manner of entertainments were available on board after breakfast.  The “Safety Instructions” were mandatory, a sort of lifeboat drill for river cruisers, but the Nautical Talk, Wheelhouse Tour, Apple Strudel Demonstration and  Vienna Coffeehouse Talk were all a matter of choice.  We listened to some of the nautical information, but skipped the Wheelhouse Tour, because the wheelhouse was enclosed in glass and we could peek in whenever our hearts desired.

A Morning in the Locks
A Morning in the Locks

Our favorite entertainment of the morning was the locks.  When we were in Oregon we watched a riverboat go through the Bonneville Locks, but I assure you it was much more exciting to be on a riverboat in the locks – not to mention that we were on the Danube, not the Columbia.  It is amazing how quickly the water fills the lock once the gates are closed behind you.  Then you sail away on a part of the river that is much higher than you were just minutes ago.

We skipped the Apple Strudel Demonstration.  I’m not all that fond of fresh apples and I don’t like baked apples at all.  I knew I wasn’t going to try to duplicate their recipe and I didn’t want the promised samples.  I attended the Coffeehouse Talk, but it wasn’t as informative as I had hoped.  I would have been interested in more information about the history of the coffeehouses and I depend on Rick Steves for my tipping advice, so perhaps I should have just stayed up on deck enjoying the locks.  The bottom line of the cruise director’s chat was that Americans over-tip.  So what?  I bet the cruise director didn’t complain about overtipping when he counted his take.

In hindsight, I think I would have been better off spending more time up on deck or perhaps enjoying my balcony.  We pulled into Bratislava early and had lunch, eagerly anticipating the afternoon’s activities.  Come back next week for the shore excursion.

 

 

DESTINATIONS, International, TRAVEL

Finally, We’re Off

Adult Coloring Cards My In-Flight Entertainment
Adult Coloring Cards My In-Flight Entertainment

TRAVEL THERE: GETTING THERE – A PAIN IN THE NECK, LITERALLY

Whoever said that getting there was half the fun must have lived a long time ago.  On our latest journey, getting there (and getting home) was just about the only hassle we had to deal with.

The Pain in my Neck

So, I had a wreck in January and have been under the care of a chiropractor.  While it has been distracting and frustrating, on most days I can keep the pain to a dull roar.  The one thing I can’t do is sit still for any length of time.  Talk about frustrating!  I spend my days at a computer, but these days my computer time is broken up by neck breaks.

What has been an irritation in my day to day life became a real dilemma on my trip.  Before my pond-jumping flight was over, I was having pleasant fantasies about guillotines – and anything else that might stop my neck from hurting.

No Room on the Plane

My biggest problem is that I remember when flying was fun.  The airlines were still trying to get our business, so our knees had room, the food was good and you didn’t have to be in first class to be treated well.  I’m sure I don’t have to remind you all this has changed.

I do have a message for Lufthansa, that Airbus 330-300 you put us on had no business going across the ocean.  I guess I really don’t have too much room for complaint, since my flight was virtually free.  Viking included airfare for $100 each and my travel agent tried very hard to warn me that I might want to upgrade to Premium Economy, but I was intent on keeping a low profile in the money department.  All the same, I’m going to complain.

As soon as I sat down, one thing was obvious, my seat was not designed for a 5’8″ female.  I can only imagine how miserable my six foot husband was.  There was no position I could put myself into which would keep my knees from touching the seat in front of me – and this was before that passenger leaned his chair into my lap.

My biggest complaint was the well-used condition of the plane.  Oh, the upholstery was fine and everything was clean, but from the moment it taxied down the runway, I had the distinct impression this plane might have crossed the water one too many times. My husband drives a Mercedes and I drive an Altima.  Neither is reflective of this experience.  The flight reminded me of the strange orange car my niece drove when we visited Egypt – there was a hole in the floor and everything rattled.  Now the plane didn’t have a hole anywhere (that I know of), but the rattling just about drove me crazy.

Sleeping – Forget About It!

In best case scenarios, it is unlikely that I will get much sleep on a plane.  In this case, unlikely was an understatement.  I had headphones, a neck pillow, a blanket, a sleep mask and I brought cozy socks for my feet.  I had dinner, did a little adult coloring and then settled down for a long flying nap.

I tried all the tricks to convince my body to fall asleep.  First was the sit-erectly-and-close-your-eyes method.  I told myself this would be best for my neck, but since I usually fall asleep on my side, I had to give it up.  I tried to emulate sleeping on my right side, which is my initial falling asleep position at home.  It was a little awkward, but it tricked my body into thinking it might want to fall asleep.  My next trick was to roll on my left side, which I always do in bed right before I head off to dreamland.  As a bonus, Bill was on that side and I was able to lay my head on his shoulder.  It was going to happen…I was falling asleep…then we hit the turbulence.

It was a pretty significant bounce, so I came wide awake, but if that had been all there was, I might have been able to overcome it.  I could not overcome the next hour of the bone-jarring ride.  The rattling sounds pierced through the headphones.  I tossed and turned for an hour in the dark with no luck.  Out of pure frustration I found a movie to watch.  I like Jennifer Lawrence.  I like Bradley Cooper.  I like Robert DeNiro.  However, Joy has to be one of the worst, most depressing movies I have ever attempted to enjoy.  After it was over I wished I had just listened to the plane rattle.

Breakfast Time

We didn't eat here, because we'd just eaten airplane food, but it did make us feel as if we'd landed someplace interesting.
We didn’t eat here, because we’d just eaten airplane food, but it did make us feel as if we’d landed someplace interesting.

By the time the movie was over the flight attendants turned on the lights and shades were going up.  I shook off my misery and looked forward to breakfast – which should be an indication of just how miserable I was.

Ten hours from take-off, we were landing in Frankfurt and I felt like I’d rather be dead.  The rattling had merely been a distraction, but from the base of my neck radiating outward was some of the most excruciating pain I had endured since the accident.  I was also punch drunk.  We must have asked 10 people how to find our gate.  We were like Keystone Cops.

When we did find the gate, I went to the restroom to freshen up.  We stacked our luggage around Bill’s feet and I slept until it was time to catch the next flight.  Thank you to my remarkable husband who acted as my pillow while I slept.  I was at least coherent when I woke up.  My shoulders felt good enough to make me think I might be able to withstand carrying my head around for the rest of the trip.

On to Budapest!  Things do improve and to prove it, here’s video highlights of our trip.

Accommodations, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, Restaurants & Bars, TRAVEL

Meals You’ll Love on Viking River Cruises

Taste of Austria (8)TRAVEL THERE: MEAL BY MEAL ON THE VIKING TOR

Every meal is a treat on Viking River Cruises!

Breakfast

From 6 – 11 AM a Cafe Breakfast was available at a coffee station next to the Lounge.  In fact, food and beverages were always available there.  The food ranged from croissants and danish in the morning to cookies mid-afternoon, but there was always something.  The liquid libations offered even more variety:  coffee drinks both hot and cold; hot tea and hot chocolate; both bubbly and still water; even juices in the morning.  The Cafe Breakfast service satisfied the needs of both the early risers and late sleepers, while the coffee station itself kept the rest of us from getting peckish throughout the day.  There was at least one day we visited it for a second breakfast and on most days we took advantage of it for an afternoon break.  At 7 the Aquivit Terrace served a Continental Breakfast.

At 7:30 the Restaurant opened up for a Full Breakfast and I do mean full.  There was a lovely buffet where you could get anything from a made-to-order omelette  to a bagel with lox.  A list of all the things available would take up more word count than I want to spend on it.  I was particularly fond of the mushrooms sauteed in butter, not something I usually eat for breakfast, but once I tried them I ate them every morning.  Healthy things like fresh fruit and yogurt were available as well as diet-busters like bacon and breads of every sort.  I’m not very experimental in the morning, so I had no interest in things like pickled herring and other local “delicacies” they offered up, but you might be.

Were you able to visit all the stations on the buffet and still not find something you were interested in, a menu was available for other selections.  My husband chose to order from the menu on several mornings, but that wouldn’t keep him from enjoying the buffet too.  The menu included all those taboo treats like French Toast, Pancakes and Waffles.

Of course, coffee, tea and a variety of juices were available, but should you have an interest in it, champagne was also being poured.  Many of the passengers enjoyed mimosas, but I can’t start the day drinking.  I’m a wimp!

Lunch

Most of the shore excursions were planned to get you back to the boat for lunch at 12:30.  Lunch was served in the Restaurant in much the same way as breakfast, but with different selections.  Instead of a chef preparing fresh egg dishes, the lunchtime chef offered made-to-order pasta.  There were a wide variety of casual foods offered around the buffet, but you could also order off the menu.  The Aquavit Terrace was also available.

20160417_130007Most days we’d order off the menu and then graze the buffet for tidbits until our meal arrived.  The menu items were served in European proportions.  You could get as many as you wanted, but a three course meal could be eaten without feeling as if you’d just ingested half the boat.  Well, perhaps the desserts were overly indulgent, but the other two courses were very reasonable.

The items on the menu offered a wide variety.  There was usually a regional specialty, something for the meat-and -potatoes sort and something else for the vegetarian.  The vegetarian choices were delightful, even if you weren’t vegetarian.  I would usually opt for the regional specialty, unless it was pickled something or other.

The wine started flowing at lunch, but that’s when I got my caffeine fix.  I’ve already complained mentioned the fact that Diet Dr Pepper was not an option, so I’d have a bottle of Coke Light, Europe’s answer to Diet Coke.  Pretty much any other non-alcoholic beverage you were interested was available at lunch.

I did mention desserts didnt I.
I did mention desserts didnt I?

Dinner

If you liked the idea of a buffet, then you could go to the Aquivit Terrace for dinner, but in the Restaurant dinner was off the menu.

Passengers generally dressed up a little for dinner, but if you happened to stroll in from enjoying free time at the port and were still wearing your sneakers, you wouldn’t be turned away.  For the most part Viking passengers dressed up the scale from your average ocean cruiser, but there was no formality.  There was no pool or beaches, so folks weren’t running around in swimwear.  The chilly weather discouraged shorts, tank tops and the like.  I liked dressing up for dinner and you could tell other women did, too.  My husband usually wore nice trousers and a long sleeved shirt.  Jackets and ties were not worn.

Each evening before dinner there was a briefing of some sort up in the lounge.  The cruise director would ask if we enjoyed our day and then give us the lowdown on what would be happening next.  Some evenings this event would be accompanied by a glass of free champagne.  We always took advantage of that, but we never ordered drinks.  The bar was always open, but unlike the wine with meals, alcoholic beverages in the bar were not free.  With so much wine flowing at dinner, we saw no reason to invest in cocktails.  That was not true for all the passengers though.  We saw the bartender mix a lot of martinis.

Most evenings we’d find our cruise buddies, Deb, Mike, Gwynne and John at the briefing and then take a table with them for dinner.  The fun we had around the table made dinner one of the best parts of the day.  The food was to die for and as I’ve mentioned the wine never stopped.

At both lunch and dinner the menu was divided into two parts, but different things were offered for each meal.  The left side had the chef’s daily menu and the right side was labeled “Always Available.”  I usually ordered from the day’s selection, but Deb was all about the Grilled Salmon on the Always Available side of things.  The dinner choices on either side were divided into three courses, but you could order it anyway you wanted.  Also, like lunch, they provided a variety of things to please the adventurous, the meat-and-potatoes sorts and the picky (for whatever reason).

I’ve chatted for too long about food, but it is an important part of a cruise.  Next week I’ll start sharing our exciting stops along the Danube.

 

Accommodations, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, Restaurants & Bars, TRAVEL

What Do You Eat on a Viking River Cruise?

Happy Tummies on Viking River Cruises
Happy Tummies on Viking River Cruises

TRAVEL THERE: THREE SQUARES A DAY & ALL THE WINE YOU CAN DRINK ON THE VIKING TOR

From first meal to last, Viking River Cruises does everything right.  Everything I loved about meals on other cruises they incorporated into their food service and what I hated they left out.

Single Seating Service

The overriding difference between river and ocean cruising is size.  For me that was good news.  Everything I wanted was either on the same floor as my stateroom or one floor down.  I could be in my room one minute and in the next I could be sitting in the dining room.

Here's a peek of the dining room on the evening of the regional buffet. dig those desserts!
Here’s a peek of the Restaurant on the evening of the regional buffet. Dig those desserts!

Each meal was served in one seating and you sat wherever you wanted.  One thing I had really liked about assigned seating on ocean cruises was that your server really got to know you and within a day or two they had all your preferences down.  It also narrowed down the thousands of possible table mates to a table-full of people to have dinner with and I’d always been lucky enough to really like the people we sat with.  Well, on the riverboat, we got to know all the servers and by the end of the cruise each of them knew us well enough to provide incredibly individualized service.  The small number of passengers also made cruise friends a lot easier to find.

Two Dining Venues

We chose to eat all our meals in the Restaurant.  The spacious room had tables of various sizes spread comfortably around the room.  On both sides were large windows looking out onto the river, sometimes at a city where we were docked and at other times at changing scenery, as the boat made its way to the next destination.  In the center of the room was a three-sided buffet for breakfast and lunch.  Dinner was usually from the menu, except for a special regional buffet one evening.

The Aquavita Terrace Buffet on the Regional Buffet night.
The Aquavit Terrace Buffet on the Regional Buffet night.

The other venue was the Aqauvit Terrace.  Had the weather been a tad warmer, we would probably have been all over this, especially at lunch.  The Terrace was at the bow of the boat, offering a view of the scenery ahead.  Half of the seating is actually outside on the deck, but some is inside a glass-encased section at the end of the lounge.  That’s where the buffet is and all the meals in the Terrace are served buffet style.  Rumor had it that the Terrace menu focused more on sandwiches, salads and small plates, many of which were included on the Restaurant’s menu.  Perhaps I should have checked it all out for you, but I was on vacation after all.

All the Wine You Can Drink

This was one of my favorite things about the cruise.  The battle of the bottle on the other ships was a confrontation we could not win.  On Viking we couldn’t lose, because there was no battle.  Each evening they had a small selection of wines, both red and white, which were included in the price of the cruise.  Most nights it seems there were only two (one red, one white) but on some of the evenings regional specialties were included which expanded the selection.

My husband, who is a little more picky about wine than me, was always quite pleased with the red choice.  I adored the white wines, especially the regional specialties.  If you are a wine snob, there is a package you can buy that affords you premium wines, but we didn’t need it and we didn’t meet anyone who did.

It really is all the wine you can drink.  Once the wait person finds out which color you prefer for the evening, they’ll keep pouring it for you until you tell them to stop.  If mid-meal you want to change colors, that’s fine too.  I don’t exactly know how they afford to be so generous, but this single act of generosity endeared me to them forever.

I’ve still got a lot more to say about food, but I’ve run out of words today, so come back next week for a description of the meals.

Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, Restaurants & Bars, TRAVEL

The Question of Food When Cruising

Our Taste of Austria Dinner
Our Taste of Austria Dinner

TRAVEL THERE: WHAT I LIKE AND DISLIKE ABOUT DINING AT SEA

Food is one of the biggies on a cruise and Viking has it down pat.  You’d have a hard time feeling hungry at anytime on board, yet it’s not the obscene food orgy of ocean cruising.

Cruise Food I Have Loved

My favorite food I’ve ever had on any boat was a dessert on the Carnival Ecstasy.  I ordered it the first night, because it was chocolate.  I ordered it the rest of the nights, because it was the best thing I had ever put in my mouth.  The name of the chocolate creation, which I cannot for the life of me remember, did it no justice.  I have no picture of it, but will never forget it.  The rest of the food on the boat was good, sometimes really good, but it wasn’t the best overall I ever had.

The best dining experience on any ship was on Royal Caribbean’s Monarch of the Seas.  I was traveling with all the people I loved best, so that may have enhanced the enjoyment.  This was old fashioned cruising where you really dressed up for dinner and had assigned seating at a specific time in a single venue.  Every meal, every night was a unique and wonderful experience.  We also had the best waiter I have ever had aboard any ship any where.

What You Won’t Suffer on a Viking River Cruise

I am not a fan of multiple restaurants on a cruise.  I don’t want to make reservations.  I don’t even want to have to make a decision about which restaurant I’m going to choose.  I don’t want to pay a premium.  I like it the way Viking had it.  They just fed me.

On our “Free-styling” Norwegian cruise a few years ago, my husband felt like the only style unavailable was the one we wanted – particularly when it came to breakfast.  Breakfast is his favorite meal.  He loves to linger over the menu and the meal.  The only sit-down breakfast service on that cruise was quite early in the morning and on a cruise, Bill doesn’t do anything early in the morning.  On top of that he had to navigate the huge buffet, when all he really wanted was for someone to bring him exactly what he wanted for breakfast and he wanted it piping hot.  Was it a lovely breakfast buffet?  Yes, but he didn’t want a breakfast buffet.  Viking solves all of this.

Another of our pet peeves with Ocean Cruising has been the battle of the bottle.  We like wine with dinner.  While we love a particularly good wine, we’re perfectly happy with a decent wine.  On-board various ships we’ve ordered by the glass, ordered by the bottle and pre-ordered a selection of wines.  Either way we’ve done it we’ve felt the ouch of the price, because we know we can get a perfectly good wine at Trader Joe’s for around $10 a bottle and it bothers us to pay more for less.  To make things more interesting Bill loves red and thanks to my sinuses I prefer to drink white.  Viking made wine with dinner a breeze for the same price of a breeze.

And speaking of bottles, even getting a glass of water on your average cruise ship is a hassle.  They’ll sell you a soft drink package, they’ll tempt you with fancy cocktails and they’ll charge you for a bottle of anything – even water, but try whetting your thirst for free.  It’s not easy.  Viking completely abandoned that business model.  There were bottles of free water all over the place and a dispenser for bubbly and still water at the coffee station.

On most cruises I sort of feel like the emPHAsis is on the wrong sylLAble, as my mother used to say.  There’s entirely too much attention paid to shoving food down your mouth.  It takes a page or two of the daily newspaper to explain all the food choices and then if all else fails, they will deliver food to your stateroom 24 hours a day.  I had all I could eat and more on Viking, but I didn’t have to make a career of managing my food choices.

So now that we have discussed cruise food in general, next week I’ll introduce you to the way Viking does food.