Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, Decorative Arts, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, International, Museums, Road Trips, TRAVEL

The Hofburg Palace Treasury

3V T (14)TRAVEL THERE: HOW DO YOU SPELL EXCESS?

Exiting from the Hofburg’s Imperial Apartments in Vienna, we discovered it was still raining on our parade.  A little morning precipitation had been disheartening.  To discover drizzle still dominating the day was downright frustrating.

Mourning the Loss of Plan A

I know my husband.  It’s all well and good to spend a few hours in a museum and the Imperial Apartments were extraordinarily fine museums, but I’d better have something else besides museums on the agenda.

Plan A was designed with just that in mind.  Next door to the palace is the Volksgarten.  We’re talking European next door, not American.  That means right across a small street from the exit of the Imperial Apartments is this popular garden.  We were supposed to catch our breath from all that royal grandeur in a lovely garden which just happened to have a coffee kisok right there.  It was perfect or at least it should have been.

The glorious Volksgarten is not so inviting in the pouring rain.
The glorious Volksgarten is not so inviting in the pouring rain.

Instead, the main thing we wanted to do was get out of the rain.  I half-heartedly offered up chocolate at Dremel or a visit to the Dortheum, an auction house he’s shown an interest in.  I know either one would have been a good choice, but right then all he wanted to do was get out of the rain.  Well, he’d probably have been perfectly happy to take a taxi back to the boat and see what kind of pastries were available at the free coffee bar.

Because he loves me, he wanted me to see the most important things on my very long list of must-see attractions, but he wasn’t thrilled about it.  A part of me whispered that I should get this man back to the boat and let him browse the coffee bar, but I was afraid that if I did, I’d miss everything else on my list.  He doesn’t approve of me wandering around strange cities without an escort of some kind and once he was back on the boat, I’m betting dynamite would not have gotten him off it for yet another subway ride and more stomping around in the rain.

As I stood there with all of this floating around in my mind I mourned the possibilities I’d wished for.  I’d imagined Bill in the Volksgarten, with his cup of coffee in hand, oooohing and aaaahing over all the wonderful options we had to choose from.  Instead the chill of the mist was invading our crevices and Bill became impatient with my list of attractions.  “What are we closest to that’s inside?” he wanted to know.  “The Treasury,” I replied,”but it’s a museum.”  He said, “lead the way.”

Back into the Hofburg

Thanks to my friend, Rick Steves’ Eastern Europe guide book and DK Eyewitness Travel’s Top 10 Vienna, I knew my way around the palace.  I led Bill through a tunnel to the In der Burg courtyard, through the Swiss Gate to the Schweizerhof which held the Treasury.  Part of me whispered I was making a big mistake, but this was number two on my list of must-see’s and it was out of the rain, so I didn’t know what else to do.  I think this was one of those lose-lose situations and there had not been a correct answer to the drizzle dilemma.

We were wowed by the Treasury.  Bill’s fatigue was dispelled as he began photographing everything in sight.  I kept trying to put it all together.  This was the fourth day of the cruise and all four days had been dominated by the Hapsburg Dynasty.  We’d already seen so many remarkable sites associated with their wealth, grandeur and power.  I couldn’t get over the fact that the Hapsburgs toted all this stuff around with them wherever they went.  I’d assumed that each of their many castles had it’s own set of china and flatware, but instead the emperors and their entourage packed it all up in velvet and silk lined leather boxes to carry it with them.  After all, an empress never knows when she might need several hundred silver charging plates.

As if the Silver Collection of the Imperial Apartments had not held enough treasures for any dynasty, we were now in a treasury which was chockablock with more golden, silver and jeweled wonders.  At some point my disbelief checked itself out and I just wandered around awestruck.

I’ll share some of the pictures Bill took.  Then you come back next week and hear how my dream day in Vienna continued to disintegrate.

 

ART, Attractions, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

Myriad Botanical Gardens, Oklahoma City OK

Conservatory, Myriad Botanical Gardens, Oklahoma City OK
The Conservatory at Myriad Botanical Gardens

TRAVEL THERE: MYRIAD BOTANICAL GARDENS, A GLORIOUS OASIS IN DOWNTOWN OKC

Warning! Downtown OKC is under construction.  Your GPS won’t like it.  That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go.  It just means you need to be ready for it.  We found parking close to the art museum and walked the few short blocks to Myriad Botanical Gardens.  

An entire city block, being prepared for implosion.
An entire city block, being prepared for implosion.

There’s a Conversion Happening

Five or six years ago Bill and I took a few days in OKC in the days before blogging.  Much of what I planned for this stopover with Deb came from my memories of the trip with Bill.  I remembered OKC having a decidedly turn-of-the-century Western charm, but it was the turn from the 19th century to the 20th.  OKC is moving into the 21st century whether I approve of it or not.

A sign of the the times
A sign of the the times

The two buildings above may deserve the makeover, but there were others we were sorry to see included in the “improvement”.  They sported signs of architectural interest that will be lost when antiquity is replaced with skyscrapers.

The inscrpition says we are what we do. What has someone done?
The inscription says, “We are what we do.” I wondered “What has someone done?”

At least the city is trying to incorporate natural beauty in between it’s glass boxes, but Deb didn’t think much of it.  This small architectural feature was carved with a platitude and accented with a large stone.  In Deb’s opinion, it looked as if someone had failed to clean up after their pet dinosaur.  When Bill saw this picture, he felt the same way.

The Myriad Botanical Gardens had also changed.  I remembered them as having more green grass and less hardscape.  Not that they haven’t created a beautiful place.  It’s just not as botanical as I remembered.

The Conservatory

The gardens outside were different and I was still trying to decide how I felt about that when we arrived at the entrance to The Conservatory.  The last time I’d visited there had been a festival going on and the entry area was congested with small costumed entertainers.  This time everything was serene.

We made our way to the garden area and entered a wonderland.  It was amazing.  I won’t bother you with my ecstatic ramblings.  Instead I’ll just share my pictures.

Come back next week and I’ll share another downtown treat with you.  The Oklahoma City Museum of Art.

 

 

 

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Gardens, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

On the Mission Trail

Mission Concepcion, Mission Trail, San Antonio,TX
Mission Concepcion

TRAVEL THERE: SAN ANTONIO’S MISSION TRAIL

Mission Concepcion

Deb and I both had been on San Antonio’s Mission Trail before, so our visit was just a refresher course. We started at Mission Concepcion and arrived during a break between services.

Very modern families shared the latest news on the mission lawn.  White-frocked priests chatted with parishioners.  A large black dog wove among pants legs and teased children, earning a pat or two along the way.  Some version of this scene has played out, right there, for several centuries.  I found it heart-warming.

Espada Mission

We stayed a few minutes and then passed by San Jose Mission, because we would be returning shortly for Mariachi Mass.  With only 45 minutes to spare, we chose to see Espada over San Juan.  Deb couldn’t remember which was which, but I knew Espada was my favorite.

Mission Espada, Mission Trail, San Antonio, TX
Mission Espada

When we pulled into the parking lot Deb knew I had chosen correctly.  It’s her favorite mission too, even though she couldn’t remember the name.  She recalled it from a previous visit, long ago when her boys were young.  We sauntered among ruins and enjoyed the rustic feel of the old church.

Big News for the Mission Trail

As we chatted with each other about the lovely place a gentleman overheard our appreciative comments and shared some news.  Mission Espada has been chosen as a World Heritage site.  Since the official announcement didn’t come out until July 5th, finding this out in early June was a big deal.

On the surface this sounds like a good thing, but I really don’t know whether I want UNESCO messing with my favorite mission or not.  All five missions are included in the designation, but Espada has been singled out as the site of the interpretive center.

Deb and I both feel a very spiritual connection to this particular mission, because it seems to be the least modernized.  We feel as if there is still a link to the men who originally suffered and sacrificed to bring the Good News to the New World.  We know that not every priest who came to the Americas had the best interest of the natives as their goal, but something about Espada makes us believe the men who came there did.

What we really don’t want is a bunch of people in costume making like they’re historical figures and signs all over the place explaining how abusive us Europeans were to the natives.  Sure there were abuses, but we’re afraid new abuses are about to be perpetrated on the beautiful Espada Mission.  It is a church first and it should stay that way.

After hearing the news we entered the chapel and spent some time in prayer.  It was a holy moment for us, touching both our hearts.  We hope we can have that experience the next time we visit Espada.

Time for San Jose

Mission San Jose, Mission Trail, San Antonio,TX
Mission San Jose

A peek at our watches told us we had lingered too long.  We made a mad dash back to San Jose.  Of course, we parked in the boonies and raced around wildly trying to find the worship center.  A woman took us in hand and found us a seat.

The Mariachi Mass

I have bad news.  The Mariachi Mass isn’t what it used to be.  The last time I was at San Jose, parishioners were excited about the renovation about to occur.  I’m afraid they did to San Jose exactly what I don’t want them to do to Espada.  They improved it above and beyond my recognition.

Not The Way It Used to Be

I have memories of a small dark sanctuary filled with the exhilarating music of mariachis laced with the intoxicating smell of incense.  The new sanctuary is big, bold, bright and completely out of touch with my memories.

Back in the old days, the mariachis wore incredible costumes sparkling with silver conchos.  The new uniforms have stamped metal conchos, but only the color is silver, not the metal.  The old mariachis wore the complete costume.  Sombereos atop their heads, heavily embroidered suits with silver conchos and heavy black leather boots.  The new mariachis wear white shirts with mariachi bowties, but it’s not the same.  Someone once told me the same family had performed as a part of the mass for many generations.  I don’t think any of them are still there.  One of the violins was so off key that I actually thought I was going to have to leave.  It was like nails scraping a chalkboard.

Here’s how bad it was.  One of the choir members recognized us as strangers and apologized to us.  That’s pretty sad.

It was time for us to head towards Dallas, but one more adventure awaits.  Come back next week for lunch at Gruene’s Gristmill.  In the meantime, enjoy the Mission Trail photos below.

ART, Attractions, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

San Antonio’s Japanese Tea Garden

Japanese Tea Garden, Brackenridge Park, San Antonio TX
Japanese Tea Garden, San Antonio TX

TRAVEL THERE: JAPANESE TEA GARDEN IN SANANTONIO

Thanks to the VIA trolleys Deb and I were visiting San Antonio attractions we would’ve never reached by walking and we weren’t having to hassle with driving and parking.  That’s the way to enjoy sightseeing.

The day was drawing to a close, but we had energy enough for one more attraction. We walked out of the San Antonio Botanical Garden just as the VIA trolley pulled up to the curb and rode over to the Japanese Tea Garden.

Brackenridge Park

Both the Botanical Garden and the Japanese Tea Garden are part of a larger complex of attractions called Brackenridge Park.  Included in the Brackenridge Park Conservancy is a zoo, a golf course, the Witte Museum and other recreational activities.  Brakenridge Park is an important part of what makes San Antonio such a wonderful place to visit.

The Witte is undergoing a major overhaul right now, but on a previous trip, Bill and I had thoroughly enjoyed the museum with its South Texas Heritage Center.  My last trip to the zoo was decades ago, long before I was blogging.  Though small in comparison to some zoos, like San Diego for instance, it was quite charming.  What sets it apart from other zoos, in my mind, are the beautiful animal sculptures sprinkled throughout the exhibits.

Visiting the Japanese Tea Garden

As I planned this trip with my bestie, I hoped we’d have time for the Japanese Tea Garden.  I kept telling myself that surely somewhere along the way I had been there, but I could never recall a specific occasion.  So, I looked forward to refreshing my memory.  The VIA trolley rolled up to the entrance, I took the obligatory picture and then my bestie and I climbed the hill to the garden.

Pavilion, Japanese Tea Garden, Brackenridge Park, San Antonio TX
The Pavilion

Once we reached the top and walked over to a pavilion where other tourists were madly snapping pictures, I realized I had never actually been there, because if I would have been, I would never have forgotten the view!

San Antonio’s  Japanese Tea Garden was re-claimed from a quarry and the results are dramatic.  From the pavilion you look down into a verdant landscape with two large pools.  Then your eyes travel to the far side of the garden which features a cascading waterfall.

Garden Needs TLC

Since I’m always honest with you, I have to tell you, this is not a pristine garden like, Portland’s or Fort Worth’s Japanese Gardens, but the landscape is so unique it is still well worth a visit.  As I was writing this series of articles and pulling up sites for linking, I noticed the Brackenridge Park Conservancy urging San Antonio’s citizens to come to a meeting about a new Master Plan.  After seeing the condition of the Botanical Garden and the Tea Garden, I have to say they need a Master Plan.

A wedding ceremony was underway beneath the falls when we arrived so access was limited, but we made our way down the hill to the pools.  One pool has perfectly clear water (well mostly clear water) and the other is clogged with some sort of algae or plant.  Hopefully the new Master Plan will include clearing the murky pond.

When the wedding concluded and we were allowed back under the waterfall.  The site, which had been so impressive from the pavilion, lost some of its charm up close.  Like the Botanical Garden, the Tea Garden suffers from lack of maintenance.  No one has loved either of these gardens well enough in quite a while.  Enjoying gardens the way I do, it was sad to see what once must have been a stunning garden struggle to stay alive.

Back to the Trolley

We made a circuit of the garden, stopped in the tea shop for refreshments and headed towards the trolley stop.  Truth be told, we were pooped.  With the exception of a few quick trolley trips we’d been walking all day.  Deb wears a Fitbit and when she told me how many tens of thousands of steps we’d made, I was suddenly even more exhausted.

The trolley finally showed up and we dragged our tired bodies into our seats, but the day wasn’t over.  After a short respite in our wonderful suite we were rejuvenated and recharged – just in time for happy hour and dinner.  Come back next week and I’ll tell you about that!

ART, Attractions, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

San Antonio Botanical Garden

San Antoio Botanical Garden, Brackenridge Park, San Antonio TX
San Antonio Botanical Garden

TRAVEL THERE: SAN ANTONIO BOTANICAL GARDEN (SABG)

OK, I admit it. The Dallas Arboretum has me spoiled.  That and all the amazing gardens I’ve visited throughout the US and the world.  Still this was not my first visit to the SABG, so my expectations were not completely unrealistic.  The gardens still managed to underwhelm me.

A Previous Visit

My last visit was back in 2001.  I was living in California at the time and came back to Texas to take my parents on a little road trip.  We had a blast and the SABG was one of the highlights  I remember the Conservatory Gardens were closed at the time due to some kind of maintenance, but I also remember loving the gardens.  Mom was a real garden aficionado and she liked it, too.

The Garden Today

The last fourteen years have not been good for the gardens.  Gertie’s Garden, the entry area, was sharp looking and well-tended.  The Wisteria Arbor was charming.  But as we ventured out into other areas, it just looked like the garden had not been loved.  Things needed paint; chains were rusty; gardens had weeds and dead flowers – it was disappointing.

The first disappointment was a little Japanese Garden tucked away in a corner.  I love Japanese Gardens.  One of the things I like is that the good ones always look as if the gardener just finished trimming.  Everything looks perfectly manicured.  This garden looked as if they’d let the plants go for a while and then tried to trim them back.  Things just didn’t fit well.

We went on to the Conservatory, where it looked like half of everything had died and they really needed a good window cleaner to come in and go after the glass panels.  Then we headed to The Overlook where the lack of maintenance was even more evident.  We blew off the nature trails because we figured if the rest of the garden looked overgrown, then the nature trails would really be wild.

I think the real problem might be M-O-N-E-Y.  It takes a lot of it to keep a garden of that scale going, (just ask DABS).  So, here’s what I want you to do.  I want you to go visit the SABG and send them donations.  I remember this place as being beautiful.  They’re going to have to tear out a lot of overgrown plants and do a lot of replanting to save the charm of the place.  They also need to work on the panes of the conservatory.

This wasn’t our last garden of the day and the next one was a pleasant surprise.  Come back next week and I’ll tell you about the Japanese Tea Garden at Brackenridge Park.  In the meantime, in spite of some negligence, it was a garden and there were still some pretty things to see at the SABG.  Here’s some shots I took.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Decorative Arts, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, Museums, Restaurants & Bars, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

San Antonio’s King William District

The Guenther House, King William Historical District, San Antonio TX
The Guenther House

TRAVEL THERE: KING WILLIAM HISTORICAL DISTRICT IN SAN ANTONIO TX

If it’s art, I love it. If it’s Decorative Arts, Architecture and History, well I’m there.  That’s the reason we spent our first morning in San Antonio at the McNay.  It’s also the reason our next stop was the King William District.

The Guenther House

To be exact, our  next stop was The Guenther House, because I also like food.  The Guenther House is one of the jewels in the crown of The King William District.   The Guenther Family founded the Pioneer Flour Mills.  Ever hear of Pioneer Biscuit Mix.  Yep, that’s them.

The mill is still producing and you can sample their wares at the restaurant, right there at the home of their founder.  The home also serves as a museum and has a great gift shop.  Deb and I took a look at it all while we waited for a friend to arrive.

I met Clark in my SFA days and stay in touch on Facebook, but it’s always great to get a chance to chat in person.  We were able to get a seat right there on that covered patio.  Deb had a salad, I opted for the Champagne Chicken Enchiladas and Clark just kept us company.

Of the two dishes, I think Deb chose the better one.  Not that mine was bad – it just wasn’t everything I’d dreamed of when I read, “Tender slices of chicken breast and Monterey Jack cheese wrapped in Pioneer’s White Wings flour tortillas.  Baked in our special sauce made from San Antonio River Mill Champagne Chicken Gravy mix, garnished with jalapenos and cilantro.”  The tortilla was a little tough and by the time the melted cheese made it out to the patio, so was it.  The flavor was great, but I’m a real stickler for texture.

Steves Homestead, King William Historical Distict, San Antonio TX
The Steve’s Homestead

The King Willam Walking Tour

Soon Clark had places to be and I had the map a walking tour of King Williams in my hand.  Now I’ve been to the King William District numerous times, but I’ve never been to San Antonio with anyone else who is as patient with my passions as Deb is.  Every time I’ve been to San Antonio I’ve told my traveling companions how great it would be to walk through the district and spend some time looking at each house.  So far no one had taken me up on it.  I’d been through it on a trolley tour, I’d gone on the Steves Homestead Tour and I’d driven through on the way to Guenther’s, but walking tour and San Antonio had not clicked with any of my potential walking tour companions.

Villa Finale, King William Historical District, San Antonio Texas
Villa Finale

Of course, Deb thought it was a great idea and it turned out to be just that.  We left Guenther’s and figured out where we were on the walking tour map.  Then we did just what I’d wanted to do, strolled along and discussed all the beautiful homes with the Walking Tour Map & Guide as our reference.  Along the way we did take in the Steve’s Homestead Tour – delightful, by the way.  We were a few minutes late for Villa Finale, so we just enjoyed the grounds.  As beautiful as these homes are they only scratch the surface.  Each home in the five block area is a treasure.

So, yes, if you go to San Antonio you should do the walking tour.  San Antonio is notoriously hot and humid, and we walked the whole thing in ninety something  weather, but it was fine.  In fact, the tree-shaded sidewalk made it very pleasant.  On the way back to Guenther’s we dropped down to the River and enjoyed the serenity.  This is one of my favorite memories of this trip.

But the Riverwalk was calling.  We had reservations at Hotel Contessa and we wanted to see the Fiesta Noche del Rio at the Arneson River Theater.  Come back next week and I’ll tell you all about it!  In the meantime, enjoy these pictures from the King William Walking Tour.

 

 

 

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Decorative Arts, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, Museums, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

Morning at the McNay Art Museum

Marion Koogler McNay Sculpture, McNay Art Museum, San Antonio TX
Incoming Message from the Big Giant Head!

TRAVEL THERE:  SAN ANTONIO’S MCNAY ART MUSEUM

Diverting Diversity

There’s more than one reason I have a blast traveling with my bestie.  One of the benefits I truly enjoy is her encyclopedic knowledge of movies and TV – especially movies and TV she enjoyed with her boys.  Since I didn’t have kids at all and tend to know more about concierges than coneheads, I can be seriously entertained by things most everyone else already knew.  Enter the sculpture garden at the McNay.

You can usually tell what is most important to me on a trip, because I will schedule it first on the agenda if at all possible.  That’s why the McNay Art Museum was our Friday morning destination.  As we pull into the beautiful grounds of the wonderful museum, Deb says, “Incoming message from the big giant head.”  This made no sense whatsoever to me.  Yes, there was a large sculpture of Marion Koogler McNay‘s head there on the lawn, but what was that “incoming message” stuff about?

That’s when I got a lesson on sci-fi sitcoms.  Most of you don’t need an explanation, so I’ll leave it at that.  We arrived a few minutes before the museum opened which gave us some time to explore the garden.  Deb posed before the big giant head in the appropriate stance and we captured a few of the other lovely sites on the grounds.

McNay Art Museum, San Antonio TX, Marion Koogler McNay, Sunset Hills
Welcome to Sunset Hills

Getting to Know Marion Koogler McNay

Though I’ve mentioned the McNay before, I’ve never really told you how wonderful it is.  Marion Koogler McNay was a patron of the arts and one of her husbands (she had several) built her a palace in what was once a rural area outside San Antonio.  Now the estate is just minutes from downtown, surrounded by accouterments of the bustling metropolis.  Learning more about the heiress’ life is just one of a plethora of reasons to visit the McNay.

Ms. McNay is one of those people who had everything other people want, but was denied the one thing she really wanted.  Over the years as I’ve visited the museum, I’ve learned tidbits about her life and it is a haunting story.

Born in Ohio, to a family with money, she was exposed to great art at a very young age and it captured her heart.  She was one of the first to collect works of Impressionism, which led to an appreciation of the schools which followed it, like Cubism and Fauvism.  But the modern art of her day was not her only interest.  She collected religious images from the Middle Ages and classic sculpture also.  She was an artist in her own right and played a role in the artistic community of Taos New Mexico.

But all she really loved was Don McNay.  She was still quite young when the pair met and married.  Though she was well-to-do, her husband was not.  He was just a soldier who was about to be posted to an assignment on the Texas-Mexico border. She came along and they lived very happily in a very modest house near his posting.  In spite of her affluent upbringing, this was the best time of her life.

Unfortunately it was not happily ever after.  Don was reassigned and shortly after leaving the border area, he died from the Spanish Influenza epidemic.  Ms. McNay had not followed him on his second assignment, but settled in San Antonio, where the two had honeymooned on their way to the border town.  There were other homes and other husbands, but her heart would always belong to Don.

McNay Museum of Art, San Antonio TX
From the courtyard

One of her husbands built this beautiful mansion, called Sunset Hills, for her, and even though she made it a beacon of art and beauty for others, she had sad experiences there.  It took years to build the complex residence and when it was done, our country had fallen into the Depression.  She held a gala housewarming, but the pictures of it seem to echo with disappointment, rather than glee.  In just a few years her marriage ended and she took back Don’s surname as her own.  I can imagine her walking the halls of her beautiful home wishing she could trade it all for just a little more time with the love of her life, Don McNay.

The McNay Today

Though her own life was sad, she brought opportunity and great art to San Antonio for others to enjoy.  A visit to the McNay to learn more about Marion and enjoy Sunset Hills is more than enough reason to make the pilgrimmage, but on top of it all is the art – some of it hanging on the walls, other items actually a part of the walls, like the beautiful mosaic in the courtyard.

Membership having its privileges, Deb and I got in for free, thanks to my membership at the DMA.  Then we began to roam the museum enjoying first the permanent collection, then wandering back to the theater area for some special exhibitions out there.  One was called “All the Rage in Paris” and it had posters, costumes and other artifacts from the days of the Ballet Russe in Paris.  What and interesting and beautiful collection!

While visiting the museum we watched a video on Ms. McNay’s life, which reminded me of some of the things I’d learned about her.  We also relaxed in the courtyard.  I love that courtyard so much that there is even a chance that I actually go there for the fountain and mosaics rather than the art. (Don’t tell anyone!  I’m still trying to impress people with my art appreciation skills.)  The museum also has a whimsical and wonderful gift shop, but I managed to leave without buying anything this time.

After a couple of hours, it was unfortunately time to move on.  We had many plans for our day and lunch at the Guenther House was one of them.  Come back next week and find out about Champagne Chicken Enchildas!  In the meantime, enjoy a few more pictures of the McNay.


 

 

Architecture, ART, Attractions, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, Restaurants & Bars, Road Trips, TRAVEL, Travel Planning, United States

Le Pain Quotidien and the Venice Canals

Le Pain Quotidien, Los Angeles CA
Le Pain Quotidien

TRAVEL THERE:  LAST DAY IN LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA

It was our last day in LA. The family had arrived in waves, and now Bill and I would be the first departing wave. There were only a few hours left. At 1:18 AM, my nephew texted me the location where we’d meet at 10 AM for brunch. At 4:13 AM he texted me to let me know it would actually be 11.  The nieces and nephews were keeping different hours than Auntie Jane.

Brunch at Le Pain Quotidien 

Before Steven married and moved up to San Francisco, he and Bassem were a pair of young studs enjoying the single life in LA.  I can imagine them landing at Le Pain Quotidien to break their fast after a wild night on the town or even for a quiet Sunday morning reading the LA Times.

However, with thirteen people ranging in age from toddler to retired teacher, perhaps we should have gone to IHOP.  The little ones couldn’t find anything they wanted to eat and for that matter, neither could I.  It was all very healthy, fresh and chic, but I’d been awake since 4:13 AM and I was seriously hungry.  Also, we were spread out over several tables in a corner of the cafe and I’m sure our chatter was disruptive to everyone else.

Next Stop

When brunch was over everyone turned to me for our next adventure.  I was honored that I hadn’t been disbarred from the family after the Huntington Garden fiasco, but maybe Bill’s telephoned assurance that there actually were amazing things behind the tall hedges saved face for me.  Problem was, I’d seen everything I’d put on my wish list except one and I was afraid the Venice Canals might not be appropriate for this huge crowd of people.

I confessed that my bag was empty except for the Canals, but suddenly I had a groundswell of support.  Steven and Shannon had courted nearby and Bassem thought the area was amazing.  Bill, too, was anxious to see the canals.  So we loaded up and headed out.

The Venice Canals

Saturday afternoon with a caravan of cars is not the optimal time to see the canals – still I’m awfully glad they were included at the last minute.

The Venice Canals, Venice Beach CA
The Venice Canals

You can’t see much from the car, so the entire caravan had to find places to park.  I think that privilege came with a price tag of twenty-something dollars per vehicle.  I thought that was outrageous, but everyone else took it in stride.

The Venice Canals is a neighborhood built on a series of man-made canals just a few blocks from Venice Beach.  The cute bungalows were affordable back in the day.  Now if you’ve got two or three extra mil laying around, you too can live there.

Except for the parking, it actually turned into a great outing for our large group.  In ever-changing groups of three or four folks, we strung out all along the canals with everyone strolling along at their own pace.

Venice Canals, Venice Beach CA
Auntie Jane at the Venice Canals

The canals were a real boon to me.  I don’t see my grandniece and grandnephew often enough for them to remember me.  So, I was about to leave, but they’d finally decided to let me into their special circle.  I pushed their stroller around the canals.  We made up a silly game to play as we went over the bridges.  We laughed, giggled and sang nonsense songs.  I’m sure the residents hated it, but I was in heaven.

Farewell to the Golden State.

Finally, we couldn’t put it off any longer.  There was a episode of fruit basket turnover as we re-arranged everyone to accommodate Bassem driving us to the airport. We were going to have to return the Maserati to him.  I would miss it.  My real car is a Nissan.

I’ll share a few more shots of the picturesque canals, but come back next week.  Who knows what I’ll have up my sleeve!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Architecture, ART, Attractions, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, Libraries, Museums, Road Trips, Shopping, TRAVEL, United States

Huntington Library and Gardens

Huntington Library & Gardens, San Marino CA
The Sadeks at the Huntington

TRAVEL THERE: THE HUNTINGTON LIBRARY AND GARDENS IN SAN MARINO, CALIFORNA

Until I started planning this trip I hadn’t heard of the Huntington Library and Gardens in San Marino. I was just looking for a museum to visit, since the Getty Villa would be closed the day I wanted to go. As it turned out, I got to see both the Getty Villa and the Huntington. Let me tell you – you’ve got to go to the Huntington.

THE HUNTING WHAT?

Even now that I’ve been there, I don’t quite know how to describe the Huntington – which might be part of the problem.  The official name of the place is The Huntington Library.  Quite frankly, though I’m very grateful our nation is blessed with wonderful libraries, I don’t consider them as tourist destinations.   Also, it’s in San Marino, not LA, so maybe that’s why I’d never heard of it.  Call it what you will, it’s one of the most amazing places I’ve ever been and very little of it is actually a library.

THE HUNTINGTON GALLERY

As I researched LA, some clue hinted at an art museum inside the grounds of the Huntington Library.  Following my nose I found The Huntington’s website and investigated their collection.  I about had a heart attack.  Staring right at me from the webpage was Blue Boy – yes, Gainsborough’s Blue Boy.  And do you want to know who is looking at Blue Boy from across the room?  You’re not going to believe it!! Pinkie!  Thomas Lawrence’s painting of a young girl in pink and white.  (Go ahead and click over there, I’ll wait.)You’ll be amazed  You’ve seen prints of the two displayed together a million times.  Well, at the Huntington, the real things are in the same room…looking at one another.  It was almost too much for me to bear.

Huntington Library & Gardens, San Marino CA
Enjoying a break before heading out to the gardens

The Huntington has a whole slew of gorgeous European paintings that you will devour, but even if they didn’t have a single painting, I’d still tell you to go.  I’ve been to a lot of luxurious, ornate, beautiful historic homes in my life, but I have never ever seen anything like the Huntington Art Gallery.  Well, maybe “never ever” is stretching it a bit.  King Ludwig’s Linderhof in Bavaria was on par. (Probably Versailles is too, but I’m still mad a Jimmy Carter for being there when I went to Paris.)  Bottom line – go get your socks knocked off.

THE PRICE OF ADMISSION

If you go during the week, it will cost you $20 per person ($23 on weekends).  It doesn’t open until noon (10:30 on weekends) and they shoo you out at 4:30.  It ought to be illegal.  Not the price, it’s worth every penny, even if all you see is the Art Gallery, but how are you supposed to see any of it in just four and a half hours.  I could have spent four and a half hours in the Art Gallery alone.  I call a foul.  They should open up at the crack of dawn and stay until very late.  Charge me by the hour.  I don’t care.  Just give me more access.

THE HUNTINGTON BOTANICAL GARDENS

Huntington Library & Gardens, San Marino CA
On the paved road not quite seeing the gardens

With only a few hours to see everything and an entourage to manage, I made a tactical error.  I thought the prudent thing to do would be to stroll along the paved road that leads through the gardens.  Sure enough, you get a peek at the edge of the gardens, but not much more.  The gardens are designed for you to enjoy them on the foot paths within the various settings, not zipping by on the paved road.

Huntington Gardens, San Marino CA
Follow me. I’m not sure where I’m going, but eventually you’ll love it – really!

Needless to say, my entourage soon tired of almost seeing things.  Just about the time I figured out the drill, the entourage was through.  I tried to encourage them deeper into the garden, but their visit was over.  A lot of the conversation happened in Arabic, but I knew they thought I was nuts.  Besides, I don’t think they had prints of Blue Boy and Pinkie for sale at the five and dime in Egypt.  They just didn’t get any of my rapture.

Too bad.  They departed and Bill reluctantly followed me into the Japanese Garden.  Moments later he was calling the kids and begging them to come back, but it was too late.

The Japanese Garden, which was unbelievably beautiful, gave way to a Chinese Garden which was even better.  I realize that I’ve run out of superlatives, but if you’ve been there you understand.  Get this!  There are fifteen gardens, each one more amazing than the last one.  How are you supposed to see fifteen gardens in four and a half hours?

AND THAT’S NOT ALL!

As if being able to enjoy the Huntington Art Gallery in the gorgeous palace housing the remarkable collection wasn’t enough, there are two other galleries.  One is home to American art and the other hosts special exhibitions.  I’d pay twenty dollars to see either of them!

Oh, and why is it called a library?  Because they have a huge building with 420,ooo rare books and 7,000,000 manuscripts.  Yes – SEVEN MILLION manuscripts.  Now the general public is not allowed to get their grubby hands on all of that, but they can see highlights of the library in an exhibit hall.

I didn’t even get near to any of this.  I’m ready to go back, right now.

A GIFT SHOP TO BEAT ALL GIFT SHOPS

The Huntington Gift Shop is not the largest gift shop I’ve ever been to.  Oh you can get a T-shirt, but why would you bother when there are gorgeous scarves, amazing jewelry and stunning decor items.  Go ahead – do a little browsing.  See if you won’t want one of everything.

So, now you know.  The Huntington is more than an art museum, more than a library and more than a garden.  It’s shangri-la, the garden of eden and utopia all rolled into one.  Go!  It’s wonderful!

But my day wasn’t over!  I was meeting one of my besties at one of my favorite places for dinner.  Come back next week and I’ll tell you about it.

Architecture, ART, Attractions, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, Museums, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

The Getty Villa, Malibu CA

Getty Villa, Malibu CA
Malibu’s Getty Villa

IN LOS ANGELES GETTY IS THE THING

Museum Girl has one word for you in LA: Getty. One word and two locations. Getty Center is a big art museum on a hill in Los Angeles . Getty Villa in Malibu is something else entirely.

THE GETTY CENTER

If you’ve never been to The Getty Center, you have to go there first.  The location alone is reason enough.  Even if you don’t like art, you really need to see this place to believe it.  The view is outstanding and the architecture is amazing.  What’s more, there are gardens and fountains that also think they’re the main attraction.  Seriously, you have to go.

If you do like art, then this is a feast you will enjoy.  All day is not enough.  I’ve been several times and it still hasn’t been enough.  There are multiple huge buildings.  The museum’s holdings are encyclopedic and they get first dibs on the best exhibitions in the US or visiting the US.

What’s more – it’s free!  You heard me – free.  Not on certain days or after a certain hour, but all the time.  Now you have to reserve and pay for parking, but this is LA where you even pay to park in front of your house.

THE GETTY VILLA

When I moved to California, Malibu Getty was being renovated.  It was ready the final year I lived there, but it was impossible to get in.  On my visits since I moved away from California, I never could work the museum into my schedule for a variety of reasons, which included things which were both my fault and theirs.

Just like I was determined to have an overnight stay on Moonstone Beach, I wasn’t missing the Malibu Getty on this trip.  My nieces and nephews are not into museums in a big way, but I warned everyone that with or without them, I was going to the Getty.

INVASION BY SADEK

Two carloads of Sadeks arrived at the Getty Malibu promptly at 10:30 with free timed passes in hand.  What an entourage!  Toddlers, teenagers, Baby Boomers and more!  Just getting everyone to the entrance was quite interesting.

Once inside we showed our timed passes and a volunteer invited us to see the intro video.  He also suggested we have a look around the galleries in the immediate area, since there wasn’t anyone waiting to see it.  While we were looking around, along came a busload of folks who got in line ahead of us.  Helpful hint number one:  Ignore the volunteer.  Get in line and wait for your turn.

Do watch the video though.  It’s very good and helps you understand the villa and the art.

CAN YOU SAY AWESOME?

Remember your world history textbooks?  And remember the head shots of statues which stood in for Caesar, Caligula and Cato.  Ever wonder where those statues are?  They’re at the Getty Malibu!

Perhaps I’ve spent more time than other folks staring at art, history and art history books, but what impressed me most about the Getty Malibu was that all those pictures I’d been staring at were front and center.  One right after the other.  I couldn’t get over it.  I can’t say that the entire entourage felt that way, but I was overwhelmed.

My husband adored the architecture.  One grandnephew loved an activity room where you created rubbings off faux pottery shards.  One niece was spellbound by a peek of the ocean from a terrace.  My grandniece just wanted to run in the gardens.

In other words, there was something for everyone.  Truth be told, I wanted to stay a little bit longer and almost everyone else thought we stayed a little too long, but we all had a good time.  Some day, when I return for a visit, I’m going to go by myself and stay all day.  It’s going to be great.

From the Getty Villa we went to Santa Monica.  Come back next week and I’ll tell you all about it.