Architecture – Page 9

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, Music, Performing Arts, TRAVEL

Shore Excursion to Bratislava, Slovakia

July 27, 2016July 27, 2016 Jane Sadek

TRAVEL THERE: NOT EXACTLY WHAT I WANTED IN BRATISLAVA

Bratislava is a lovely little town with the oldest surviving town gate in Continental Europe. However, I ran into several complications in my efforts to enjoy this stop on our cruise. The video includes the highlights of the shore excursion and I’ll tell you about my difficulties behind the scenes.

The Walking Tour That Wasn’t the Walking Tour

I had carefully studied the available shore excursions back in Dallas and after a careful examination, decided the Bratislava Walking Tour was superior to the Bratislava City Tour. Both involved walking around the Old City, but one included a bus trip to what I call Faux Castle.

See there once was a real castle up on Castle Hill. However, it was nothing but a ruin when the Communists showed up. They decided they needed to replace the castle, but all they did was build a modern building and call it a castle. I had no desire to see their modern day monstrosity.

However, when I showed up on the dock, we were ushered to a bus and I got the distinct feeling I wasn’t going to be happy about it. In Viking’s defense, I didn’t say anything to anybody once I feared I was on the wrong tour. I guess the jet lag or something had finally hit me, because I wasn’t feeling completely up to par and I just didn’t have the desire to rock the boat – or the bus. My bad.

I have no idea who this guy was, but he has pride of place on Castle Hill.

The bus took us up Castle Hill and dumped us out at the Faux Castle for an orgy of picture taking. The scenery was great, but there’s nothing that makes you feel more like a tourist than being dumped off for a photo opportunity when you don’t really understand why you are there in the first place. The guide never even pretended the castle had any historical or architectural significance. She just said we had ten minutes to take pictures and abandoned us.

On cue, we filed back on the bus after taking our photos and rode down the hill. Then we went on a walking tour which was somewhat interesting, but not compelling. That might have been because the grumblings in my stomach were getting most of my attention, but I was also wondering how the tour sans the Faux Castle would have differed. My new friends assured me they had a great time on the real walking tour, but since Deb was the sort to have fun whatever she was doing, I don’t know if she can be trusted.

Woulda, Coulda, Shoulda

Andrew Petcher (a fellow travel blogger I highly recommend), suggested free-style wandering was the best way to see the town, but with Mr. Bill in tow, free-style can be problematic. I think Andrew was probably right. With my Rick Steves’ tour book in hand and no tour guide to keep up with, I think I would have thoroughly enjoyed the capital of Slovakia. The architecture was charming and the quirky sculpture sprinkled throughout the town made for some great snickering.

I think it would be a great place to spend a quiet weekend, but it’s a little far from Dallas for me to check out that theory. My greatest regret was not getting to the UFO Restaurant atop a bridge, another gift of the Communists. After the walking tour we were given some free time, but by then I desperately needed a little private time in my cabin.

A Slovakian Evening

By 6:45 I had gotten myself back into cruise mode and was front and center for the Daily Briefing. We had dinner with our cruise buddies and then made our way back to Lounge for “A Slovakian Evening.”

The entertainment was delightful. Those great big ocean liners can provide productions to rival Broadway and Hollywood, but you have to share them with your 3000 new friends. I’m sort of over that. I much preferred the intimate setting of the Lounge, where we gathered comfortably with 178 (give or take a few) other passengers. The show was marvelous. In fact, after some expensive entertainment in Vienna, our friends told us the onboard entertainment had much better performers than the Viennese show. We thoroughly enjoyed the Slovakian Evening, because the songs were familiar, the costumes were beautiful and performers were gifted.

Below I have included some photos of the entertainment. I hope you’ll come back next week for Vienna – the highlight of the cruise.

Architecture, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, TRAVEL

A Quiet Morning on the Danube

July 20, 2016June 20, 2016 Jane Sadek

TRAVEL THERE:ON THE DANUBE BEND

The third day of our trip began on the river. We cruised an area known as the Danube Bend and while it is a pleasant stretch, it’s not exactly postcard worthy. Bratislava, Slovakia waited around then Bend and a lovely evening of entertainment was in store, but our morning was quiet.

A Slow Start

This was the only day we didn’t have to be up and about for a morning shore excursion, so we took it a little slow. I was up before Bill and when I looked out the window I saw piles of dirt along the riverbank which were similar to the piles of sand American road crews keep for icy weather. I have no idea what the sand was for, but that’s what the piles looked like. As I said, not exactly postcard perfect.

While we took our time, it’s not like we were lag-a-beds. Breakfast was only served until 9:30 in the restaurant and we got there in plenty of time for Bill to order from the menu. I stuck to nibbling goodies from the buffet.

All manner of entertainments were available on board after breakfast. The “Safety Instructions” were mandatory, a sort of lifeboat drill for river cruisers, but the Nautical Talk, Wheelhouse Tour, Apple Strudel Demonstration and Vienna Coffeehouse Talk were all a matter of choice. We listened to some of the nautical information, but skipped the Wheelhouse Tour, because the wheelhouse was enclosed in glass and we could peek in whenever our hearts desired.

Our favorite entertainment of the morning was the locks. When we were in Oregon we watched a riverboat go through the Bonneville Locks, but I assure you it was much more exciting to be on a riverboat in the locks – not to mention that we were on the Danube, not the Columbia. It is amazing how quickly the water fills the lock once the gates are closed behind you. Then you sail away on a part of the river that is much higher than you were just minutes ago.

We skipped the Apple Strudel Demonstration. I’m not all that fond of fresh apples and I don’t like baked apples at all. I knew I wasn’t going to try to duplicate their recipe and I didn’t want the promised samples. I attended the Coffeehouse Talk, but it wasn’t as informative as I had hoped. I would have been interested in more information about the history of the coffeehouses and I depend on Rick Steves for my tipping advice, so perhaps I should have just stayed up on deck enjoying the locks. The bottom line of the cruise director’s chat was that Americans over-tip. So what? I bet the cruise director didn’t complain about overtipping when he counted his take.

In hindsight, I think I would have been better off spending more time up on deck or perhaps enjoying my balcony. We pulled into Bratislava early and had lunch, eagerly anticipating the afternoon’s activities. Come back next week for the shore excursion.

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, TRAVEL

Sail-Away on Viking Tor

July 13, 2016June 2, 2016 Jane Sadek

TRAVEL THERE: DRAMATIC DEPARTURE FROM BUDAPEST, HUNGARY

After our shore excursion to the Szchenyi Thermal Baths we were transported back to the Viking Tor on one of Viking’s buses. Transforming myself from a well-pruned spa goer to an elegant river cruiser was somewhat of a challenge, but I made it.

6:15, Time to Party

Each day the Viking Daily would let us know the day’s schedule. Cocktail Hour always began at 5:30, but since they served us more wine than we should’ve been drinking at dinner, we didn’t join the die-hards ordering martinis and whiskey neat. However, on the night of the Budapest Sail-Away, the Viking Daily announced “A Toast to Our Guests” and since that usually means champagne, we made sure to be there. I love champagne.

We found our new cruise buddies in the Lounge. They’d also been to the baths that afternoon. We settled into a section with enough seats for six of us and then helped ourselves to the flutes of champagne passing by us on trays. Our Captain was from Bratislava and while he could speak English, none of us could understand it. I bet he hates having to do that.

Soon the Welcome Toast was over, but fresh flutes kept coming around. Next on the agenda was the Daily Briefing. Program Director Daniel was fluent in English and excellent at charging up the crowd for rave reviews about the day’s activities. Then he’d fill us in on what the next day would hold, along with any logistical details we needed to know. By seven we were released to the Restaurant.

Sail-Away on the Sun-Deck

On the evening before, Bill and I had taken a stroll along and across the Danube. We’d seen just how dramatic the landscape looked with the major buildings all lit up and we were excited to see what it would look like from the middle of the Danube aboard our longship. Theoretically, there was commentary being given, but what I remember was a lot of laughter and a good dose of exclamations as the dramatic vista passed before us.

We’d started the evening with a champagne toast, drank our fill of wine at dinner and then were given shots of schnapps up on the Sundeck to celebrate the Sail Away. Definitely a case of alcoholic overload.

I assure you there was plenty to oooh and aaah about. Budapest is a lovely city and after dark it is an absolute wonder. With perhaps the exception of a light show at Luxor, Budapest gleaming in the night is one of the most spectacular evening scenes I’ve ever viewed. If you decide to take this cruise, be sure to start in Budapest. Viking runs it both ways, but there is no way a Sail Away in Passau could compare with Budapest.

I’ll leave you with some photos of the Sail Away. Plan on coming back next week for Bratislava.

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, Decorative Arts, DESTINATIONS, International, TRAVEL

Szechenyi Baths in Budapest Hungary

July 6, 2016June 2, 2016 Jane Sadek

1B Hill (59) — Buda Plague Statue – Castle Hill

TRAVEL THERE: TAKING THE WATERS WITH THE HUNGARIANS

Much too soon, IMHO, it was time to leave Castle Hill. Bill (bless his heart), who does most of my photography, was just getting warmed up. On the way up the hill he’d scouted out all sorts of lovely photo opportunities, but suddenly we were late for the bus.

Time for Lunch

Never tell Bill he doesn’t have time for something. He’ll prove you wrong. It was only the first full day of the cruise and I didn’t want to get a reputation for always being the last one back on the bus. “You won’t have anytime for pictures,” I warned him, so he took a whole bunch. Confession: I wanted him to take the pictures and I wanted him to hurry, so I used a little travel psychology on him.

Back down at the bus, we weren’t the very last to board, but almost. Warning: Your bus will leave you if you are late coming back from Castle Hill. Budapest severely limits the number of buses allowed on the hill at any one time. They monitor the comings and going of the buses and only give them a small window of time to actually be on the hill. While an occasional infraction yields only a stiff fine, repeated offenses can bar you from the hill altogether. Therefore, your bus will not pick you up in exactly the same place it let you off, because once you’re off, they’re high-tailing it off the hill. They come back and get you, but don’t linger in the shops getting a souvenir for granny or you might be hoofing it back to the boat. Not that bad of a walk, but you might miss lunch.

Here’s the pictures Bill took on the way back to the bus and down the hill to the ship.

Time for a Dip

My primary source of information for Budapest was Rick Steves. He firmly convinced me there was no reason to go to Budapest at all, if you didn’t plan to enjoy one of the Thermal Baths and if you only had time for one Thermal bath, then you had to go to the Szechenyi Baths. Viking graciously provides an optional shore excursion which takes passengers to a Thermal Bath, but they keep the information about which Thermal Bath very close to their vest. I could not, for the life of me, find any information about it on any brochure, video or webpage. My travel agent wasn’t able to get anything either and she even called her Viking rep. Seems they don’t publish this information in case they decide they want to change up their thermal bath shore excursion locations. Gee guys, thanks for the anxiety!

I will tell you that Viking took me to the Szechenyi Baths for our Budapest Thermal Bath Excursion, but don’t blame me if you end up at Ruda or Gellert Spas. If you end up at one of those, be angry. Be very angry, because there is only one Szchenyi Bath House and you want to go there.

The Viking Tor primes you for the shore excursion with fluffy towels and robes in stateroom when you come back from the City Tour. They also provide you with a swim cap, because you are not allowed to enter some of the pools without one.

At the spa, you will have access to a changing room and locker. From the changing rooms you’ll go to the baths, all eighteen of them. Why eighteen? Well, some are inside, some are outside. Some are hot, some are cold and others are merely tepid. Some have jets and fountains, some don’t. Some have particular minerals, some have others. Some are for swimming, others are for soaking.

Bill and I spent the lion’s share of our time in two of the three outdoor pools. One of the outdoor pools is strictly for swimming laps and it’s where you’ll need the swim cap. We didn’t go there. We lollygagged in the other two pools with hundreds of our new Hungarian friends. Even if you think this sounds icky, you should give it a try. We loved it! We did check out the indoor pools but much preferred the outdoor experience.

The Szechenyi Baths are a lot of fun, but they are also gorgeous. Once we’d gotten prune-y from all the bathing, we got dressed and Bill started taking pictures. Enjoy! Then come back next week for the Budapest Sail Away. It was spectacular!

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, Decorative Arts, DESTINATIONS, International, TRAVEL

Across the River, Thru the Tunnel and Up Castle Hill

June 29, 2016May 26, 2016 Jane Sadek

Enjoying the sights on Buda's Castle Hill — Enjoying the sights on Buda’s Castle Hill

TRAVEL THERE: THE BUDA PART OF THE BUDAPEST CITY TOUR

With Heroes Square and Andrassy Boulevard under our travel belt, next on the must-see list was Castle Hill. A couple hours before lunch is not enough time to see it, but that’s what we had, so we went with it. Castle Hill is every much as touristy as Heroes Square, but the visitors seem a lot more European and there were no sweater ladies.

Matthias Church

The bus parked and we were led to the top of the hill by our apologetic guide. We waited a few minutes outside Matthias Church while tickets were procured by our underdog tour leader and then made our way into the church.

WOW, just WOW!

The outside of the church was glorious and the deep blue sky didn’t hurt one iota, but once we walked inside the church, we were awestruck.

While the actual church building has only been around for about 800 years, a lot of history has happened up there. Last week I mentioned the Magyars. Well, they were basically marauding barbarians who made Budapest their winter camp around around 867. Somewhere in the late 900’s the old Magyar king, Geza, noticed Christian forces were taking over Europe. Never one to miss a trick, he decided his son, Vajk, should join the up-and-coming religion.

And here’s where the legends start. At about the same time Geza was planning the strategic step of turning Vajk into St. Stephen, Hungary’s first Christian king, the pope dreamed the Magyars were about to convert and had a gold and silver crown tricked out with the popular gemstones of the day and sent it to Budapest with his blessings. However, reliefs on the statue outside the church illustrate the pope showing up with the crown himself for the coronation, so you get to choose what you think happened.

And speaking of the Hapsburgs, there are some very dingy banners hanging from the columns of the church. I was all for replacing them, until I heard they’d been up there since old Konig und Kaiser Franz Joseph’s coronation in 1867. So much for my idea of improvement!

Perhaps the banners wouldn’t look quite so dingy if they weren’t surrounded by blazing color in every direction. Every inch (and I mean every inch) of this beautiful interior is either gold or painted in intricate patterns. It’s like a sampler of bargello needlepoint on steroids.

Life in the Matthias Church has not been all crowns and banners. For awhile some of the various armies passing through used it as a barracks and stable. I’m sure that endeared them to the population. Then the Communists found out they could make some coin by opening it up as a tourist attraction, so they allowed the Hungarians to return it to its former and current glory – and it is glorious.

After the official tour was over we wandered around the church. Even at the risk of sounding redundant, I’d like to repeat that this church is spectacular and you should check out every nook and cranny they will allow you into.

St. Istvan and Fisherman’s Bastion

St. Stephen's Monument and The Fisherman's Bastion — St. Stephen’s Monument and The Fisherman’s Bastion

1896 is an important year in Hungary. Budapest was in its glory days and someone noticed it was the 1000th anniversary of the Magyar’s arrival, so the city went on a campaign of “Magyarization” and self-aggrandizement. Not only did they virtually rebuild the city in grand style, but Hungarian became the official language and many other Magyar-honoring endeavors were undertaken. Part of this was a fluffing up of St. Matthias Church, but they also built Heroes Square, the Fisherman’s Bastion and they erected the St. Istvan (Stephen) monument.

Since Istvan was the first Christian King of Hungary, the whole St. Stephen thing is easy to understand. The Fisherman’s Bastion requires a little more explanation. In Magyar times, when someone decided to attack Buda and/or Pest, the people of the area were pressed into military service. It so happens that what eventually became Castle Hill was in the district where the local fishermen docked their boats. So while the people of Budapest were honoring their Magyar ancestors, they built a double-decker rampart with seven pointy towers (one tower for each of the Magyar tribes) and dubbed it in honor of those fisherman of the past.

Fisherman’s Bastion is, by far, the best vantage point from which to admire the spectacular Parliament Building, along with the rest of the Pest portion of the two-part city. We took lots of pictures, so please enjoy them and come back next week for a dip in the Szechenyi Baths.

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, TRAVEL

Let the Shore Excursions Begin

June 22, 2016May 26, 2016 Jane Sadek

TRAVEL HERE: THE PEST PART OF OUR BUDAPEST CITY TOUR

Budapest, Hungary deserves several days on any itinerary, but Viking only gave me the better part of two days, so I had to make the most of every minute. While I wanted to don my walking shoes and start exploring the city, I dutifully boarded the Viking bus and went on the City Tour included in my cruise. I can tell you this, if I can ever manage to do it, I am going back to Budapest!

Andrassy Ut

Our guide for this tour was overly humble about his city. He found it appalling that while a city as grand as Budapest was virtually bereft of victories, they chose to call one of their primary tourist attractions Heroes Square. My research had given me a little different view of it.

The seven Magyars tribes had shown up in Budapest about 896 and terrorized Europe for over a hundred years. Then they protected the Holy Roman Empire from the Tatars and Turks for several centuries, until in 1867 the Hapsburgs created the Austro-Hungarian Empire, acknowledging they needed the Hungarians in order to keep their empire intact. During the second half of the 19th Century, Hungary came into its own and for a while was the rock star of Europe. When the World Wars came along, Hungary was dealt a difficult hand, but I really didn’t understand our guides underdog attitude.

Still, as we made our way along Andrassy ut, the main boulevard of Pest (pronounced Pescht), our underdog-leaning guide apologized his way past a number of spectacular sites. Rick Steves calls Andrassy ut “the Champs-Elysees and Broadway rolled into one.”

My favorite sight along Andrassy ut was the Opera House. During the Austro-Hungarian portion of Budapest’s history, the Holy Roman Emperor might have been Emperor everywhere else, but he was only the King of Hungary. Good old Koing und Kaiser Franz Joseph agreed the city needed an Opera House (What else was he supposed to do for fun when he was in Budapest?), so he provided half the funds needed for the building of the theater, with one teeny tiny stipulation. The opera house in Budapest had to be smaller than his opera house at home in Vienna. The architect followed the letter of this stipulation, if not the spirit of it. In every way except size, the Hungarian State Opera House is supposed to be very much grander than its sister theater in Vienna. Bully for Budapest!

Hosok Tere (Heroes’s Square)

At the end of Andrassy ut is Heroes Square. Though I had never heard of him before this trip, György Zala became one of my favorite sculptors. The 14 sculptures populating Heroes Square were created by him and I think they are gorgeous. In fact, the whole thing is gorgeous. It certainly deserves to be seen by one and all, but I wish we’d had time to see more of the city park which surrounds the square, especially Szepmuveszeti Muzeum (Museum of Fine Arts). It’s probably a good thing the museum has been closed since last year for renovation or I might have slipped away from the tour for a peek and never been heard from again.

While the Square is very beautiful and quite impressive it is very much a tourist trap. You will see millions tour buses and you need to plan on being harassed by bevy of Hungarian ladies hawking sweaters that very much look as if they were made in China. As you stroll around gaping at the impressive monuments, you will most likely bump into the other ten billion tourists (mostly American) who have also been dumped on the Square out of the tour buses.

While I didn’t get enough to time wander off from the tour, we were given plenty of time to explore the square. Then we were herded back to the bus, shown a smidgen of the park and then whisked away to Castle Hill over in Buda. I’ll be back next week to tell you about that, but in the meantime, enjoy the work of my new favorite sculptor.

Architecture, Attractions, Cruising, DESTINATIONS, International, TRAVEL

Getting Our Bearings in Budapest

June 15, 2016May 26, 2016 Jane Sadek

TRAVEL THERE: OUR FIRST NIGHT ABOARD THE VIKING TOR

I always over-plan my trips, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. I enjoy the planning and sometimes a small tidbit I glean from studying my destination affords me the best moments of a trip, like in Oregon when we visited the Maryhill Museum and White River Falls. This over-planning paid off in Budapest, too.

Welcome Aboard

As I boarded the Viking Tor I immediately noticed a big difference in River Cruising and Ocean Cruising. I didn’t have to stand in line so a photographer could get a picture of me. Though I do usually buy that embarkation photo, by the time they let me get that near the boat, I just want to go to my room. On Viking I got a warm welcome, spent a few moments checking in and went to my room, where within minutes I had my luggage. It was like observing a miracle!

1B Stroll (18) — Castle Hill from the Sundeck!

While a part of me wanted to get out there and start exploring Budapest, I knew the rest of my cruise would go better if I took time to unpack my bags and organize our stuff. That accomplished we took a stroll around the ship to get our bearings. Up on the Sun Deck I was once again struck by the remarkable parking spot Viking had scored on the Danube.

The Fun Begins

Dressing for dinner is one of my favorite things, whether I’m on a ship or not. So it makes sense that I planned my outfits for dinners on the ship as carefully as I planned my shore excursions. Though I’d spent most of two days getting to Budapest and several hours aboard the Tor, it was getting ready for that first dinner which made me feel as if we were finally on vacation.

About 6:15 we made our way to the Lounge. It was on the same deck as our room and getting there only took moments. Bartenders chatted with patrons and a pianist offered popular songs. Soon the cruise director officially welcomed us aboard and gave us an overview of what to expect in days ahead.

Next came dinner. From the moment we entered the chic dining room with it’s muted tones and cheerful staff we knew we were going to enjoy our meals on the Tor. From the dining room’s large windows we were able to enjoy the hustle and bustle of Budapest while we ate three delicious courses, generously laced with wine.

Out on the Streets

Here’s where the over-planning came in handy. Music and dancing were available in the Lounge after dinner, but Budapest was calling. We picked up a shore card at the desk and crossed the gang plank. I’m sure a spontaneous ramble through the dock environs would have been just fine, but I was able to suggest we take a look a Gresham Palace. Rick Steves had alerted me to the venerable old palace’s juxtaposition to our docking place. I knew all I had to do was cross Szechenyl ter (Square), which honored the man who had built the Szechenyl Chain Bridge (and many other Budapest sites), and I’d be in front of what was now a luxurious Four Seasons Hotel. Bill loves to visit swanky hotels and I was dying to see the place where, according to legend, an aging actress held off developers for a number of years. We hadn’t brought along a camera on our stroll, so Bill went back the next day and got these shots.

From the Gresham Palace my research told me Vorosmarty ter was just steps away, which would connect us with Vaci utca, the primary shopping area for Budapest and a lively pedestrian mall. Since it was late enough for the shops to all be closed, Bill was amenable to checking it out. We loved it! Elegantly dressed Hungarians strolled among the gorgeous buildings. Food vendors and musicians entertained energetic patrons. We definitely knew we weren’t in Dallas, because no one had on yoga pants or jeans.

Though we yearned to linger, we were also running out of steam, so we crossed over to Dunakorzo, the Danube Promenade. We only enjoyed a few blocks of it, but as reported by others, this is a place to enjoy some of the best views of Budapest. It is also populated by a number of charming statues, so keep your eyes open.

From Dunakorzo we returned to the Chain Bridge and took a stroll to the other side. We were not alone. Strolling the beautiful bridges across the Danube is a pastime enjoyed by tourists and natives alike. After the bridge we headed back to the boat and went to bed. The two days of travel put me to sleep immediately.

The evening sites along the river are marvelous to see, but I’m saving the rest of the nighttime pictures for the sail-way. For now, enjoy some of the shots Bill got the next day as he took and afternoon stroll along the Danube.

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Gardens, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

On the Mission Trail

October 14, 2015October 15, 2015 Jane Sadek

TRAVEL THERE: SAN ANTONIO’S MISSION TRAIL

Mission Concepcion

Deb and I both had been on San Antonio’s Mission Trail before, so our visit was just a refresher course. We started at Mission Concepcion and arrived during a break between services.

Very modern families shared the latest news on the mission lawn. White-frocked priests chatted with parishioners. A large black dog wove among pants legs and teased children, earning a pat or two along the way. Some version of this scene has played out, right there, for several centuries. I found it heart-warming.

Espada Mission

We stayed a few minutes and then passed by San Jose Mission, because we would be returning shortly for Mariachi Mass. With only 45 minutes to spare, we chose to see Espada over San Juan. Deb couldn’t remember which was which, but I knew Espada was my favorite.

When we pulled into the parking lot Deb knew I had chosen correctly. It’s her favorite mission too, even though she couldn’t remember the name. She recalled it from a previous visit, long ago when her boys were young. We sauntered among ruins and enjoyed the rustic feel of the old church.

Big News for the Mission Trail

As we chatted with each other about the lovely place a gentleman overheard our appreciative comments and shared some news. Mission Espada has been chosen as a World Heritage site. Since the official announcement didn’t come out until July 5th, finding this out in early June was a big deal.

On the surface this sounds like a good thing, but I really don’t know whether I want UNESCO messing with my favorite mission or not. All five missions are included in the designation, but Espada has been singled out as the site of the interpretive center.

Deb and I both feel a very spiritual connection to this particular mission, because it seems to be the least modernized. We feel as if there is still a link to the men who originally suffered and sacrificed to bring the Good News to the New World. We know that not every priest who came to the Americas had the best interest of the natives as their goal, but something about Espada makes us believe the men who came there did.

What we really don’t want is a bunch of people in costume making like they’re historical figures and signs all over the place explaining how abusive us Europeans were to the natives. Sure there were abuses, but we’re afraid new abuses are about to be perpetrated on the beautiful Espada Mission. It is a church first and it should stay that way.

After hearing the news we entered the chapel and spent some time in prayer. It was a holy moment for us, touching both our hearts. We hope we can have that experience the next time we visit Espada.

Time for San Jose

Mission San Jose, Mission Trail, San Antonio,TX — Mission San Jose

A peek at our watches told us we had lingered too long. We made a mad dash back to San Jose. Of course, we parked in the boonies and raced around wildly trying to find the worship center. A woman took us in hand and found us a seat.

The Mariachi Mass

I have bad news. The Mariachi Mass isn’t what it used to be. The last time I was at San Jose, parishioners were excited about the renovation about to occur. I’m afraid they did to San Jose exactly what I don’t want them to do to Espada. They improved it above and beyond my recognition.

Not The Way It Used to Be

I have memories of a small dark sanctuary filled with the exhilarating music of mariachis laced with the intoxicating smell of incense. The new sanctuary is big, bold, bright and completely out of touch with my memories.

Back in the old days, the mariachis wore incredible costumes sparkling with silver conchos. The new uniforms have stamped metal conchos, but only the color is silver, not the metal. The old mariachis wore the complete costume. Sombereos atop their heads, heavily embroidered suits with silver conchos and heavy black leather boots. The new mariachis wear white shirts with mariachi bowties, but it’s not the same. Someone once told me the same family had performed as a part of the mass for many generations. I don’t think any of them are still there. One of the violins was so off key that I actually thought I was going to have to leave. It was like nails scraping a chalkboard.

Here’s how bad it was. One of the choir members recognized us as strangers and apologized to us. That’s pretty sad.

It was time for us to head towards Dallas, but one more adventure awaits. Come back next week for lunch at Gruene’s Gristmill. In the meantime, enjoy the Mission Trail photos below.

San Jose’s Famous Rose Window

San Jose

Concepcion

Espada, the soon to be interpretive center

Espada

Architecture, ART, Attractions, DESTINATIONS, Restaurants & Bars, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

The Alamo & Menger Bar

July 29, 2015August 11, 2015 Jane Sadek

Arneson River Theater, Riverwalk, San Antonio TX — San Antonio’s Arneson River Theater

TRAVEL THERE: THE ALAMO AND MENGER BAR IN SAN ANTONIO, TX

As soon as we moved in to the Hotel Contessa and got our ducks in a row, we hit the Riverwalk. First stop: Arneson River Theater to buy tickets for Fiesta Noche del Rio.

Fun Along the Riverwalk

It’s not very often that buying tickets rates as part of the fun, but then it’s not everyday that you’re buying tickets on the Riverwalk for the Alamo Kiwanas Fiesta Noche del Rio.

Deb and I enjoy life as if we were still the twenty-somethings we were when we met. We strolled over to the theater and found a cute Kiwanas guy selling tickets along the Riverwalk, just as their advertisement had promised. By the way, the advertisement promised they would be selling tickets. It said nothing about cute guys. We just got lucky.

Neither Deb or I have any use for any guys (on a permanent or even semi-permanent basis), because our husbands are more than enough (thank you very much). But if you’ve got to buy some tickets anyway, it’s nice to do so from a personable young man who also happens to be cute.

He was probably young enough to be a child of either one of us, but we won’t go there. As he rattled off the price of the tickets, he mentioned that seniors got $5 off regular admission. We asked what age made you a senior. Thankfully, he looked at us as if to say, “Not any age either one of you will be any time soon,” but what he actually said was, “No gentleman asks a lady her age. If you’re willing say you’re seniors then that’s good enough for me.” When we revealed our actual ages he remained incredulous, so he was immediately became one of our favorite people – but we did get the tickets for $15 instead of $20.

Visiting The Alamo

The Alamo, Riverwalk, San Antonio TX — And there she is – The Alamo!

The show would start at 8:30 so we still had hours and hours to fill. We decided to head over to the Alamo. Deb had a friend who said a relative of hers was in a picture on the Gift Shop wall. We also felt somewhat obligated to go take a picture. It’s like a rite of passage each time you visit San Antonio.

The landmark was about to close for the day, so we high-tailed it to the gift shop, but they must have remodeled since the Alamo defender’s descendant last visited. No historical photographs were displayed in the gift shop.

Margaritas at the Menger

With the obligatory picture in our cameras, we decided to hit the Menger Bar for some Margaritas. Now the Menger Bar is another of those spots I’ve wished to visit, but I never talked anyone else into it. “You mean it’s just an old bar?”, I’ve been asked several times. Well, nanny nanny poo poo, Deb and I went and we had fun. The proximity of the bar to the Alamo and the prospect of margaritas, probably had as much to do with Deb’s cooperative nature as anything else, but who am I to complain about getting what I want.

Tom and Lula Mae on their 50th wedding anniversary.

See, the Menger Bar is not just any old bar. It’s been around for a very long time. Notable figures ranging from Robert E Lee and Theodore Roosevelt to Lillie Langtry and Mae West have sidled up to the Menger Bar to wet their whistle. It’s most famous for Teddy Roosevelt using it as a recruiting station for the Spanish American War, but it’s also the place where barbed wire got its start. I’m partial to the Teddy Roosevelt story, because my grandfather, Thomas Byron Mobley, fought in that altercation and Lula Mae, his wife, was the last one to receive widow benefits from that war. A senator showed up one day to give my grandmother the check in person, but I don’t think Tom signed up down in San Antonio. At least not that I’ve heard.

All that being said, the bar is a small dark hole in the wall with low ceilings and some historical memorabilia spread around. It was great for people-watching, because several large family groups were there scarfing down their evening meals. I can assure you the toddler who was so entertaining didn’t know or care about Teddy or Tom. The bar also had a GREAT Margarita. Perhaps the best we had the whole time we were there. Certainly the best on that particular night.

Well, I’ve about worn out my welcome for the day, but it’s still not time to go see Fiesta Noche del Rio. Come back next week for a tour of a few more Margaritas before the show.

Architecture, ART, Attractions, Decorative Arts, DESTINATIONS, Gardens, Museums, Restaurants & Bars, Road Trips, TRAVEL, United States

San Antonio’s King William District

July 15, 2015September 3, 2015 Jane Sadek

The Guenther House, King William Historical District, San Antonio TX — The Guenther House

TRAVEL THERE: KING WILLIAM HISTORICAL DISTRICT IN SAN ANTONIO TX

If it’s art, I love it. If it’s Decorative Arts, Architecture and History, well I’m there. That’s the reason we spent our first morning in San Antonio at the McNay. It’s also the reason our next stop was the King William District.

The Guenther House

To be exact, our next stop was The Guenther House, because I also like food. The Guenther House is one of the jewels in the crown of The King William District. The Guenther Family founded the Pioneer Flour Mills. Ever hear of Pioneer Biscuit Mix. Yep, that’s them.

The mill is still producing and you can sample their wares at the restaurant, right there at the home of their founder. The home also serves as a museum and has a great gift shop. Deb and I took a look at it all while we waited for a friend to arrive.

I met Clark in my SFA days and stay in touch on Facebook, but it’s always great to get a chance to chat in person. We were able to get a seat right there on that covered patio. Deb had a salad, I opted for the Champagne Chicken Enchiladas and Clark just kept us company.

Of the two dishes, I think Deb chose the better one. Not that mine was bad – it just wasn’t everything I’d dreamed of when I read, “Tender slices of chicken breast and Monterey Jack cheese wrapped in Pioneer’s White Wings flour tortillas. Baked in our special sauce made from San Antonio River Mill Champagne Chicken Gravy mix, garnished with jalapenos and cilantro.” The tortilla was a little tough and by the time the melted cheese made it out to the patio, so was it. The flavor was great, but I’m a real stickler for texture.

Steves Homestead, King William Historical Distict, San Antonio TX — The Steve’s Homestead

The King Willam Walking Tour

Soon Clark had places to be and I had the map a walking tour of King Williams in my hand. Now I’ve been to the King William District numerous times, but I’ve never been to San Antonio with anyone else who is as patient with my passions as Deb is. Every time I’ve been to San Antonio I’ve told my traveling companions how great it would be to walk through the district and spend some time looking at each house. So far no one had taken me up on it. I’d been through it on a trolley tour, I’d gone on the Steves Homestead Tour and I’d driven through on the way to Guenther’s, but walking tour and San Antonio had not clicked with any of my potential walking tour companions.

Villa Finale, King William Historical District, San Antonio Texas — Villa Finale

Of course, Deb thought it was a great idea and it turned out to be just that. We left Guenther’s and figured out where we were on the walking tour map. Then we did just what I’d wanted to do, strolled along and discussed all the beautiful homes with the Walking Tour Map & Guide as our reference. Along the way we did take in the Steve’s Homestead Tour – delightful, by the way. We were a few minutes late for Villa Finale, so we just enjoyed the grounds. As beautiful as these homes are they only scratch the surface. Each home in the five block area is a treasure.

So, yes, if you go to San Antonio you should do the walking tour. San Antonio is notoriously hot and humid, and we walked the whole thing in ninety something weather, but it was fine. In fact, the tree-shaded sidewalk made it very pleasant. On the way back to Guenther’s we dropped down to the River and enjoyed the serenity. This is one of my favorite memories of this trip.

But the Riverwalk was calling. We had reservations at Hotel Contessa and we wanted to see the Fiesta Noche del Rio at the Arneson River Theater. Come back next week and I’ll tell you all about it! In the meantime, enjoy these pictures from the King William Walking Tour.

In the Villa Finale Garden

The Joske House – important because my Mom worked for Joskie’s Department Store for years.

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